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Fuel Pressure Valve

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Okay, so I gave it some more thought about how I could go about adding a needle valve for my gauge. Instead of going the route of "in-line", I figured, I will just put a valve in on one of the ports thats on the fuel filter canister. Problem is, it seems like it cannot be done? What I mean is, I went to Home Depot and the guy did not have any of the right fittings. :banghead:The fitting for the fuel pressure gauge is an 1/8" Iron pipe thread. He did not have any valves in this style. Nor was he able to get any of the fittings he had to work.Do regular hardware stores have the right kind of needle valve I need or is it special order? Also, he mentioned his valves were a fibrous material and said they probably would get eat up by the diesel. :think:

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If you're looking to stop the 'water-hammer' effect of the FPG, then I'd just order a snubber. I looked for the 'needle valve' setup locally, and came up empty.

As well, your FPG sender should be a tapered 1/8" NPT (Natl. Pipe Thread), not IPT..

...unless they've changes somewhere along the line.

another option is to get a 3G fuel filter top that is tapped for the sender.. It's more expensive than a $20 snubber, however..

Snubber (built-in to banjo bolt) :

http://www.genosgarage.com/CUMMINS-BANJO-SNUBBER-12MM-985-09/productinfo/BF-BBS010/

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3G Filter lid

http://www.genosgarage.com/FUEL-FILTER-CAP-WITH-FUEL-PRESSURE-PORT-00-07-59L/productinfo/LT_FFCPP/

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Do the needle valve. I bought one and actually tapped the injection pump with it and I had needle bounce and I'm sure I was getting the hammer effects. I know your tapping into the fuel canister so it might be different but I would use the needle valve.

  • Author

Thanks for the input boys! I checked literally EVERY local store here that could have possibly carried it. I checked our local co-op store and I was shocked. Asked the guy if he carried one and he said I'm pretty sure, let me check. Comes back, "Oh yeah, I've got like 7 diff. styles, what do you need?" :stuned:I told him they were amazing, because NO ONE else carried them!I spent $6.50 on the needle valve and I did not even need to get any extra fittings! One male and the other side female! :hyper:I never thought about NAPA carrying one...

My local napa had a big display of weather head stuff, but no needle valve. The counter guy just looked at me with a bewildered look when I asked after i could not find what i needed. I just ordered one from Vulcan when I got the big line kit. $8, I got the tapped tee ther also.

  • Author

Called NAPA and they said they could get it for $9. He said the one I have would work just fine. I got it in and adjusted. Mimicks Mikes gauge when I energize the pump. Although, I dunno if it has to do with the location or not, but the gauge shows a different pressure variation than before I had it on.It will drop from 20 psi to below 15psi to about around 13-14psi if I get on it. Regular acceleration, it drops down to about 16psi. Is this normal?

That is a little much. Mine drops from 19 to 16.5 with my foot thru the floor and winding it up pretty tight. Is your ADII connected straight to the vp?

  • Owner

165 GPH pumps should hold a 2-3 PSI drop150 GPH pumps should hold a 2-3 PSI drop.100 GPH pumps should hold a 3-5 PSI drop.These are average drop amounts for stock to mild tuned engines. More fuel demand the more the drop.

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    • Author

    Ah! I have not done the line from the canister to the pump yet. I suppose thats where the drop is occuring? You would think that would increase the pressure.

    yes...if you are connected to the stock fuel filter housing and not directly to the vp..the line on the bottom of canister is a biiiig restrictor..the inside diameter super tiny..get a big line kit..1/2 lines equal alot more fuel to vp and and cooling for the computer on top of the vp!!!

    • Owner

    Old school filter can with the test port on top only flow 35 GPH max so they are restrictive themselves. That's why the newer design came out top loading and better flow rates at 75 GPH. :whistle:

    • Author

    The only thing I can think of now that would cause my wide pressure loss sweep, is friction loss...The stock fuel canister, could the restriction that it makes be the reason for my airdog pump motor burning up?Sounds like bypassing the canister is the only solution?

    does your airdog not already contain a filter assembly? If it does, then is there a reason to retain the factory assembly?

    • Owner

    does your airdog not already contain a filter assembly? If it does, then is there a reason to retain the factory assembly?

    Fuel heater is the only reason I kept mine... Being Hex is up north of me I see why he kept his too. Might consider upgrading to a later model filter housing.
    • Author

    Fuel heater is the only reason I kept mine... Being Hex is up north of me I see why he kept his too. Might consider upgrading to a later model filter housing.

    Yep, I kept mine to keep the fuel warm as it passes through. Who really knows if it really does help. But I figured it couldn't hurt. I also still have a filter in the canister, so maybe I could gain some presure back. Only having the pump push fuel through 2 instead of 3. Heck, if it don't work, I may just go to the hardware store and see about getting some barbed fittings and tap the tee into the fuel line and hook the line up directly to vp44 and gamble on the fuel heater.
    • Author

    :banghead: I really made a mess for myself yesterday...

    Went up to the store and got a setup pieced together. I got me a barbed-tee setup made to accept my needle-valve so I could go in-line on the fuel line. Hooked up the line directly to the VP44 and bypassed the fuel canister.

    I was gonna call it a night and wait to do the install. I had disconnected the batteries while I was working on the rig. I left the windows down to keep things cool, though. But at the end of the night, I wanted to get them back up. Don't wanna deal with thieves or weather.

    So I hook the battery up so I can get the windows back up. Turn the key to ON and I start "rolling" the windows up. I hear the pump prime and think cool. WAIT! SH!t! :ahhh:

    I realized that in the process, I had the line disconnected from the fuel canister and the pump is priming the whole time! Then the pump does not shut off! I thought what the heck, why is it not just pumping for 1 or 2 seconds? I go back to the engine bay and its dumping fuel. I'm freaked a little and think how the heck 'am I gonna shut this off?!

    Took me a second, but I did it... pulled the negative on the battery. :doh:

    I'm thinking that it probably dumped about 1-2 gallons of fuel in the engine bay and on the ground, maybe less. So, I start a cussin'. I got me a good mess to clean now. So I get the truck backed up and decide that if I want the windows up, I gotta get the install done. So I take about 10 minutes, get it done and then proceed to clean up my mess.

    Took 2 sandbags to cover the puddle. Then I start shoveling it into the wheelbarrow. Then it hits me.. :duh: You fool, sand is an ADsorbent, not an ABsorbent! Did you not learn anything in that haz-mat ops class of yours?!

    Sigh, so I scoop it up and grab the last of any kitt litter available. Spread it out and just so happened to have just enough before the bag ran out. The sand did help in picking up the majority and man, that kitty litter is like a sponge!

    Was a long day yesterday and I'm going to perceive it to be the same way today. Anybody want some sand to burn?! :lmao:

    You know its getting bad when you can only sleep 4 hours and have nothing but nightmarish dreams of working on the truck...

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    Hmm, lol. I keep brainstorming more and more. Now that I think of it, I have enough fuel line, I could probably get myself some elbows and hook up the line to include the canister again. Would not even have to buy a big-line kit for the space between the pump and canister!

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