I just installed a airdog ll about 3 months ago along with a new VP44 I bypassed the original fuel filter canister ,Now I would like to utilize the canister with the water in fuel sensor and the fuel heater mostly because winter is coming upon us soon here in Michigan ,Right now I have a 1/2 line to the VP44 I would like to install a reducer from 1/2 inch to 3/8 and install right to the top of canister and come out of the outlet with 3/8 down to the VP44 is this possible and if so where can I get these fittings ?

Eric has all the fittings you need but why only go 3/8 from the filter if you have 1/2 from the airdog? http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fittings-Adapters-Fuel-Line-Harnesses-s/181.htm Here is the kit that I used http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-w-p/ffip59.htm

Eric has all the fittings you need but why only go 3/8 from the filter if you have 1/2 from the airdog? http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fittings-Adapters-Fuel-Line-Harnesses-s/181.htm Here is the kit that I used http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-w-p/ffip59.htm

Correct me if I am wrong 98, The big line kit comes with 1/2 line, but the fittings on the canister are smaller diameter. Mine were maybe 3/8". I belive that is due to the threaded inlet and outlet on the oe cansister. I hope one day to have time to take mine off and see if it is possible to enlarge them.

Im not sure, but our canisters are different too. I have the metal can that the filter goes in from the bottom.

I forgot about the differant canisters. Mine comes in the side and out the bottom. The fittings in the bigline kit are much larger than the stock banjo bolts and the holes that are in the bolts. Still not 1/2" though.Jasvan, you should not have any problem going thru the canister. The big line kit is a great improvement over the stock set up.

I'm also full 1/2" from tank to VP44 but I'm also a newer style filter can. I only see 2-3 PSI fall with this setup even with a filter inside the can.

I just purchased the fittings for using the fuel canister ,can't wait to get these before winter . after I installed the air dog I have been noticing when I fill my truck up it fires up real fast and the fuel pressure gauge reads around 17 to 18 psi almost instant as the fuel level drops the truck takes a 1/2 second longer or so to crank and the fuel pressure gauge slowly rises to 16 to 18 psi and the less fuel in the tank the longer it takes to crank the slower the fuel pressure rises, and around 3/8 of a tank it gets even worse I can't drive it unless it has at least 3/8 to 1/2 tank of fuel . whats going on ?

Did you use the kit for the intank pump replacement?

I bought 1/2" radiused fittings from Vulcan. I plumbed through the OEM can & replaced the filter with a better one. It should last "forever" behind the AD.

Dripley,I used the recomended kit from AD,I explained to AD that i had a intank fuel pump and the gave me the part number to use I believe I have the right kit I talked to a Mechanic he said to pull the module out and check the clamps and pick up tube for cracks or holes ,his logic is when the tank is full everything is submerged into diesel fuel, as you burn fuel the tank empties and exposes connection points or cracks / holes ,when these holes /cracks are exposed you are sucking air along with fuel which will give you a longer crank he also said where I use a hose clamp I should use some non harding locktite to seal the connection good. SO that sounds like thats what is happening ,now I must drop my tank again and remove the module for the 3rd time to see if that is it ,I checked out all other avenues but that one ,I THINK

Correct me if I am wrong 98, The big line kit comes with 1/2 line, but the fittings on the canister are smaller diameter. Mine were maybe 3/8". I belive that is due to the threaded inlet and outlet on the oe cansister. I hope one day to have time to take mine off and see if it is possible to enlarge them.

I've thought of doing this many times too. Please report if it's possible to do.

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Dripley,

I used the recomended kit from AD,I explained to AD that i had a intank fuel pump and the gave me the part number to use I believe I have the right kit I talked to a Mechanic he said to pull the module out and check the clamps and pick up tube for cracks or holes ,his logic is when the tank is full everything is submerged into diesel fuel, as you burn fuel the tank empties and exposes connection points or cracks / holes ,when these holes /cracks are exposed you are sucking air along with fuel which will give you a longer crank he also said where I use a hose clamp I should use some non harding locktite to seal the connection good. SO that sounds like thats what is happening ,now I must drop my tank again and remove the module for the 3rd time to see if that is it ,I checked out all other avenues but that one ,I THINK

Don't you wish they made a lift up door in the bottom of the bed for access to the top of the tank? Sheesh.... why hasn't someone come that? Could be diamond plate or something.

I agree with that I am contemplating on cutting a access door I am tired of dropping the tank on my back crap falling into my face and eyes ,thanks I will do that ,I will add a flange and use some sort of gasket tape and screw it into place .

I agree with that I am contemplating on cutting a access door I am tired of dropping the tank on my back crap falling into my face and eyes ,thanks I will do that ,I will add a flange and use some sort of gasket tape and screw it into place .

I at looked doing that. The problem is one of the bed cross over supports goes right over the module. You would need to find a way to reinforce the bed where you cut the frame. The passenger side looks to be strong enough with the extra brace already there but, the passenger side, have to figure something out. With the bed floor being that it's corrugated (high / low ribs) you could cut the opening a little smaller on the lower ribs spots to leave a longer tab underneath to hold the diamond plate. That way there's a lip to screw to and not let it fall thru. The higher ribs of the corrugation could be cut the size of the cover plate so it fits good. Some zig zag cuts and sharp edges when getting your hands in there. Probly better to just add something to hold the door in there otherwise

Dripley,

I used the recomended kit from AD,I explained to AD that i had a intank fuel pump and the gave me the part number to use I believe I have the right kit I talked to a Mechanic he said to pull the module out and check the clamps and pick up tube for cracks or holes ,his logic is when the tank is full everything is submerged into diesel fuel, as you burn fuel the tank empties and exposes connection points or cracks / holes ,when these holes /cracks are exposed you are sucking air along with fuel which will give you a longer crank he also said where I use a hose clamp I should use some non harding locktite to seal the connection good. SO that sounds like thats what is happening ,now I must drop my tank again and remove the module for the 3rd time to see if that is it ,I checked out all other avenues but that one ,I THINK

I used the kit also because I had the in tank pump also. I remember the pick up tube(draw straw what ever you want to call it)was of 2 piece construction with clamps. since you are haveing problems as the tank empties it comes to mind that could be an issue. I had to drop my tank twice because I was worried I had not put the clamps in the proper place. I put the clamps on the pickup and put everything together but forgot to slip them into the proper position before installing the basket in the tank. I discovered this looking at some pics I took:doh:.

I also used some petroleum rated pipe dope on the joint in the pickup tube because i did not trust it. Evry once in a while(like this morning for instance)mine will hard start. I am so used to it firing off,I let go off the key before it fires. If that happens, I try it one more time the same way and if it does not start i let the lift pump run the 25 second cyle and it fire right off. Also I was low on fuel, not sure if I was the other times that has happened but I am going to keep an eye on it and see if it just happens with low fuel. I could see in a low fuel situation(3 to 4 gallons), you might could loose your prime while parked and not running since the pickup tube is sitting at the bottom of the basket and not on the bottom of the tank.

Since your problem seems to start near or below a half tank, that would be right at the joint in the pickup tube. I realize dropping the tank aint much fun, but the second time I dropped mine it only took half as long as the first. You are going to get very good at it, if that make you feel any better. Not laughing at you, just try laugh with you. I had to find some humor when I realized none of my clamps were positioned properly.

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I've thought of doing this many times too. Please report if it's possible to do.

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Don't you wish they made a lift up door in the bottom of the bed for access to the top of the tank? Sheesh.... why hasn't someone come that? Could be diamond plate or something.

You might have a little wait on me to see if enlarging those openings is possible, as long as I can keep my pressure running at 19 and 16, I am probably going to leave alone. It would be nice to open them though.

The acces door is pretty good idea if it werenot for the support you would have cut. The last time I dropped the tank it only took about 20 minutes, maybe thirty. It is still a pain though.

yes,Drip you know it ,and yes I have to laugh also for ignorance does not pay ,but lessons are learned it just gets old ,I am going to look at that support brace .

I've thought about a support brace that slides inside the existing brace like a sleeved support. Slide out of the way when you want access or slide it back across the cut inside the other side. It would need to fit well for strength, but how to get it in there and be long enough:think: Crazy thoughts.... I'm just looking for something to do.

OK, I dropped the tank again ,I was at work getting ready to leave the fuel tank was just under 1/2 and it would not start , after 20 minutes It started when I got home I pulled the module out and there are 2 other plastic hoses that were cut off the TEE and the TEE was removed ,these lines are about 7" inches long I think they are the return lines .I want to replace the 2 piece pickup tube with a diesel fuel rated hose (1 piece ) .Does anyone have any suggestions? maybe I can splice the old one together with a brass barbed fitting? I am so fed up with this fuel system .On the top of the module I pulled 3 lines off ,1 supply what are the other 2:banghead:

Enginde return line and the AD pump return line. You are talking about fuel lines, correct? IIRC when I installed mine I drilled a new hole for the new pick up tube and reconnected the engine return to its old connection and used the old pick up connection for the AD return line.

OK ,I have 1 suction line ,coming from the AD, 1 return line coming from the AD there is a smaller line hooked up that is connected to the the other connection next to the AD return line ,is that line needed I have to follow it I think it goes to the back of motor will have to follow it tomorrow after work,

instead of the nylon tube connected to the corrugated tube I might switch the nylon for a metal tube

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I wonder if when I connected the fuel canister back up if that has something to do with the hard starting also ?

I purchased the fittings for the top of the canister and spliced in between the AD and injection pump ,I shouldn't get any ill affects from doing that should I?

If its a fuel pressure gauge then use 1/8" Air Brake Line (Polyon or Simular). I just got done doing a under dash gauge install and this what I used hopefully its what your talking about...

 

Edited February 11, 20223 yr by Mopar1973Man

OK ,I have 1 suction line ,coming from the AD, 1 return line coming from the AD there is a smaller line hooked up that is connected to the the other connection next to the AD return line ,is that line needed I have to follow it I think it goes to the back of motor will have to follow it tomorrow after work,

instead of the nylon tube connected to the corrugated tube I might switch the nylon for a metal tube

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I wonder if when I connected the fuel canister back up if that has something to do with the hard starting also ?

I purchased the fittings for the top of the canister and spliced in between the AD and injection pump ,I shouldn't get any ill affects from doing that should I?

The third line on your fuel basket is the engine fuel return line. Yes you need it.