I have a DiPricol mechanical gauge and had problems with the isolator, replace that with the needle valve set-up as decribed on this site. I still have the gauge dropping from about 15psi to ZERO and back up to 15. I've tried opening the valve more and closing it more with no change in the action of the gauge. You'd think that if the fuel pressure was truly dropping to zero the engine would let me know. Maybe it was the gauge all along and not the isolator?I'm going to replace the gauage and would like to install an electroinc unit to keep fuel out of the cab. I've seen there have been some problems with the electronics. Any suggestions on them and which seems to be best?Thanks.

I have the Edge Attitude monitor but not sure how accurate they really are. It does say the same as what an old make shift mechanical gauge I had cobbled up told me I had for psi. I would sooner have mechanical but the edge gave me other stuff I wanted so it was best for me. I always liked the look of the Dipricol gauges. I wouldn't be to worried about fuel in the cab if it were me doing it. That's just my opinion tho.

Most electric gauges tend to fail at the senders. So about every 2 or so year you replacing senders on electric gauges. As for mechanical they are very safe and typically very accurate. So if it was dropping to zero you truly had a lift pump issues or air issue. As for my DiPricol gauge its over 7 years old and still going strong. No leaks either.

I have had a mechanical in the cab since almost day one on my 02 with zero issues. If it's done right, it's safe and leak free.What you are describing with pressure drops sounds like a pump issue not a guage issue.Jeff

Possible sucking a a bubble through (lower fuel than expected - bad gauge sender in the tank?)

I have had electrical gauges for years and never had a sender fail. If you get a cheap one maybe, but a good sender will last a long time. I ran Pricol's for several years before switching to ISSPRO about a year ago. Personally I won't run fuel to the cab, and don't want to mess with an isolator. There are too many possible issues with them, and it seems problems are more common with mechanical than electrical.

Just installed a ISSPRO mechanical gauge two weeks ago. It was very easy to set up and I am running a needle valve with it. If You do it right and use the right tubing, you should never have a problem of fuel in the cab. I like mechanical because there is hardly anything to go wrong with them. Electric, you have power issues, ground issues, sender issues, and the such. Just my ideas.

i had the same problem right after i bought my 2002 i had my truck checked bad injector and lift pump had those replaced and a idiot light installed in the post after 3 months the light in the post came on for a few seconds every now and then had the sending unit replaced same problem accured had a mech guage inslalled with copper tubing same problem but this time the pressure guage read 3psi with the light on thepost on the guage shot up to 12psi the light went out at 5 psi i had the lift pump replaced only a year old with a fass ddrp02 no more drop in pressure perfect so far 9 mo later

i had the same problem right after i bought my 2002 i had my truck checked bad injector and lift pump had those replaced and a idiot light installed in the post after 3 months the light in the post came on for a few seconds every now and then had the sending unit replaced same problem accured had a mech guage inslalled with copper tubing same problem but this time the pressure guage read 3psi with the light on thepost on the guage shot up to 12psi the light went out at 5 psi i had the lift pump replaced only a year old with a fass ddrp02 no more drop in pressure perfect so far 9 mo later

That's a no no... Eventually the copper will fail on you from flexing and vibration.

Best thing I've found is Air Brake line and most over the road trucks use the same thing for gauges too.

I know this threads a few weeks old, but I've had an Autometer Ultra-Lite electric fuel pressure gauge in my truck for 4 years, and I've never had problems with erratic readings or senders going bad. Still on the original sender, and I don't even have the snubber that Autometer requires to keep the senders from going out. Whoops!

I'd say "Lucky"...

You're probably right. I think it's one of those you get what you pay for kind of deals too. I figure since I haven't had any problems with it, I'll just continue running it this way until it dies and then I'll buy a snubber with a new sender.

You're probably right. I think it's one of those you get what you pay for kind of deals too. I figure since I haven't had any problems with it, I'll just continue running it this way until it dies and then I'll buy a snubber with a new sender.

sounds like a good guage did you buy it from a vender on this site the auto stores around here are ok but i would like a guage that is reliable not like my first lift pump ( just cause it's new don't mean it's gonna work)

sounds like a good guage did you buy it from a vender on this site the auto stores around here are ok but i would like a guage that is reliable not like my first lift pump ( just cause it's new don't mean it's gonna work)

I bought my gauges from Jegs just because they have a huge selection of Autometer gauges and they have super fast shipping. I would just go to Jegs.com and look through their Autometer gauges. I bought the Autometer Ultra-Lite electric 30psi fuel pressure gauge. 2 5/16"

i had a westech electronic gauge and i replaced 3 senders in 2 years, so a few years back i got a isspro mechanical gauge i run a needle valve and fuel in the cab. has been at least 3 years with no issues.

Pick up a mechanical isspro for under $50 and be done with it.

they only thing i did to prevent the line from rubbing and dumping oil in the cab is i ran the line inside of 1/4 rubber hose, it was left over from running the water line to my refrigerator. i was kind of nervous about the hard plastic line rubbing under the dash or where it goes through the firewall.

If you look at most medium duty truck they use mostly air brake line for all the gauges. Stuff it through a grommet and away you go.

I've had my dipricol mechanical gauge for 220k miles with a few problems. I finally got a snubber and some steel braided line which fixed the leaking and gauge noise issue I had before. My isolator lasted 10k miles then started leaking.

I have a dipricol gauge and am going to go electric. However I am keeping the mech gauge as a back up under the hood. Why? Got plans for my inside gauges. Researching on it now. That takes the most time on new projects.

Vulcan has little push connectors for the gauge back and isolator end of the 1/8" pipe. You can even push on the end if the fitting and remove the line as needed. I drilled a hole in a pop bottle cap so I could use a pop bottle to fill the line it out stopping and flushed while a helper shoved the isolator end into the slip fitting. I believe I evacuated a lot more air this way than fooling with compression fittings. The olive on the compression fitting crushes and is made for one time use. I ran mine down an electrical tester probe, which comes to a needle point and gets progressively larger. Used a crescent wrench to put pressure on the olive and was able to re-expand it to fit over the 1/8" hose. But the quick connects for obvious reasons are much easier. Multiple on/offs without damage to the piping or fittings. :thumb1:Then a schrader valve inline before the isolator so you can bleed the isolator without messing with the bleeder screw, which was not sealing without Locktite on mine.