I was thinking of tying waste gate shut with a turnbuckle, I have the spring thingy but over time the boost is dropping off from 28 down to 24 now. There is no more adjustment in hook w/spring. What U think? Thanks

Go for it. :thumbup2:A lot of people do it.

My auto ('97) makes crap for boost; maybe 20-25psi max.. I've considered it.. LOL

When I was running the hy35, I welded the wastegate. It lasted about two weeks until I overspun it. The hx35 I replaced it with lasted about a week before I overspun that one as well. Stepped up to a garrett ball bearing. No problems since.

HY35 you would have to tie it closed or use a J hook. But HX35 I would suggest using a adjustable boost elbow and keeping the MAX boost to 35 or so. Beyond that you looking for trouble for the HX35. As for the HY35 I would limit to about 30 PSI for safety.Remember more boost doesn't mean more power.

Good call! The stock turbos are designed to provide enough air for the stock or maybe 40 over injectors. When you start trying to add stock air to big fuel sticks is when you have problems. As in melt downs from exhaust heat or trying to push that small turbine way past the point of no return. Been there, done that.

Until you do your HX swap you could just crush the little feed tube to the waste gate with vise grips or drill a small hole in it. There will be no turning back though

i have the boost elbow that came with the juice and with rv sticks i can get it to push 35 but i have it set to defuel at 30

I'm only trying to get 30lbs. of boost. I figure I'm only around 300HP, so I really don't need much above 30lbs. The J-hook thingy isn't worth the steel it's made from, but it was pricey... Converting to a HX with a boost elbow is probably a better way to go. Just wasn't sure it was a direct replacement, I thought the head pipe was different HY vs. HX. Thanks for input

Until you do your HX swap you could just crush the little feed tube to the waste gate with vise grips or drill a small hole in it. There will be no turning back though

In Turbo car days, we'd crush the waste gate diaphragm canisters top in a little to pre load the spring pressure. We'd do the same with the dsm blow off valves. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Is this essentially what they are advertising a "boost fooler" for Edge products for??

Is this essentially what they are advertising a "boost fooler" for Edge products for??

An over boost code will be thrown at ___ amount of boost. The fooler fools the ECM so it won't throw a code at higher boost levels.

Is this essentially what they are advertising a "boost fooler" for Edge products for??

The edge boost fooler is an electronic device that takes the MAP sensor readings and manipulates them so that the ecm doesn't see the high boost. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Little clarity... Edge Juice or Edge Comp both are modules that tap the VP44 pump and MAP sensor. What happens is the Edge module get the MAP sensor reading before the ECM and is capable of adding or subtracting fuel based on boost. Once the boost exceeds the stock fuel tables of the ECM then the Edge module takes over completely calculating the fuel map beyond stock values adding and subtracting signal from the pump through the wire tap. This why most tapped modules can do 120-180 HP.As for programmer like Smarty and such only rewrite the ECM table so any boost pressure is acceptable. But also got to play within the confines of the ECM table hence why Smarty is limited to only 60-65 HP gains.

I just ordered a manual boost controller..

I was under the impression that the ECM controlled the waste gate, and the Fooler manipulated the data so the gate was opened slower?So what actually controls the waste gate operation? Is it actually just a self contained mechanical function of the turbo itself?OK you guys perked my interest here so I went out and crawled all around my truck:whistle: My 3rd gen has a linkage arm that is operated by some sort of pressure module connected to the boost side of the turbo..I take this opens the gate at predetermined values to prevent engine damage?

On the 24V (VP, early CR) engines, the wastegate is controlled pneumatically, or mechanically, if you will. Only by spring pressure within the wastegate actuator. The spring pressure keeps the gate closed. When the boost pressure is high enough to override the spring pressure, it pushes the gate open.A boost elbow, or 'boost controller' restricts and bleeds off boost pressure before it reaches the wga (waste gate actuator)It doesn't actually "change" the wastegate setting, it just basically tricks it, so to speak..

I just clamped the hose going to the wastegate on my HX35. The most it will do is 35psi.

I just clamped the hose going to the wastegate on my HX35. The most it will do is 35psi.

Cheapest way to do it right there.

I just clamped the hose going to the wastegate on my HX35. The most it will do is 35psi.

That's just to simple.

I just clamped the hose going to the wastegate on my HX35. The most it will do is 35psi.

I tried that with my 24v, and it never did gain boost. I had to put the boost elbow in.. I hae some hemostats I can try it with the 12v.