P0460 P1595 P1693 fuel lever didn't work in two years cruise stopped working over 6 + month ago fuel pressure is 15 at idle and 12-14 at cruise and maybe 12 at WOT Very hard start daily changed both fuel filters one on engine and the small one pre my lift pump nothing changed I ran out of fuel 3-4 weeks ago and had to open up the injectors to get the air out and truck was fine for a week or so after that then the hard starting problem started I reset the APPS a couple of times and does not help at all

Sounds like your fuel level sender might be bad, especially if it is the oe one. If it is in the oe fuel basket it could be just wearing out from age and letting air in the system causing the hard starts. I think I would pull the fuel basket out and inspect it. You would either have to drop the tank or raise the bed to access it. There is a way to test the fuel level sender but I dont know what it is. The cruise control solenoid is located under the drivers side battery and is prone to corrosion from said battery. An inspection of the solenoid is in order. I am by far not the expert here, but thats where I would start.

:iagree:I would just replace the sender for a small price of $70 or so bucks. Yeah the vacuum motor is mounted under the driver side battery and usually gets rather ate up from the battery acid. As for the hard starts. If you got a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and to watch it when you first crank it up will give you a clue of a air leak issues. Because at key ON most see a quick burst of pressure with a air leak there will not be this burst. Then as you go to cranking typically 7-12 PSI is normal cranking pressure you'll most likely not see this but lower till it pushes the bubble out then jump up.Common air leaks.Crossover tube O-ringsReturn fuel banjo at the back of the head.Return fuel Tee at the back of the engine.Suction line from the tank to the lift pump. (Pressure lines will always leak outwards when pressure applied)

I had a few hard starts from not tightening the injector nuts enough after prime. I think I was getting a small amount of fuel drain back when air leaked in. I just retightened them not wrenched them.

I would look at the connector tube O-rings. They usually act up when the engine is cold but not when warm. But I have seen them do weird things before.

Today I was working with the truck ( hauling my enclosed landscape trailer ) and as I am driving down a back road it started bucking first thing came to mind fuel pressure The gauge was dead at Zero best thing it happened going down hill and right next to a huge empty parking lot dropped it in N and turned it off as I coasted inside the lot please don't let it be the injection pump turns out my fuel pump ( BD carter replacement ) anyway since I am in Howell NJ XDP is 20 ride away from home luckily I broke down about 10 minutes away form home fast forward an hour and half later I had a new pump installed and back in business no hard starts and the fuel pressure is much higher with the new BD replacement 20 PSI at Idle 16 at 1/4 throttle and 12-14 at WOT This is what I picked up http://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-powermax-flowliftpump.aspx I had to pick a direct replacement so I can do it in the parking lot and avoid a very expensive towing bill Which would include towing my truck home then towing my enclosed trailer + down time from my landscape work etc I am very happy with the new pump the pressure went up easy 5-6 psi

Stay in touch and keep us posted on that pump I'm curious of the life span and performance of it.

I would just replace the sender for a small price of $70 or so bucks. Yeah the vacuum motor is mounted under the driver side battery and usually gets rather ate up from the battery acid. As for the hard starts. If you got a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and to watch it when you first crank it up will give you a clue of a air leak issues. Because at key ON most see a quick burst of pressure with a air leak there will not be this burst. Then as you go to cranking typically 7-12 PSI is normal cranking pressure you'll most likely not see this but lower till it pushes the bubble out then jump up. Common air leaks. Crossover tube O-rings Return fuel banjo at the back of the head. Return fuel Tee at the back of the engine. Suction line from the tank to the lift pump. (Pressure lines will always leak outwards when pressure applied)

I thought you had to remove the fuel system relay to check fuel pressure at start up. The truck cycles 12v on and off at startup so you would not get an accurate reading. With the relay out, the voltage is not cycled and you would get an accurate measurement.

Stay in touch and keep us posted on that pump I'm curious of the life span and performance of it.

My previous BD pump lasted me since Feb 08 which XDP had on file and close to 70k miles or so.