I have a 01 with bahf,quadzilla,air dog 150,triple disc torque. would like to do bigger injectors and cross tubes possibly. How big can I go with out problems? do I need bigger injection line? had a dragon fire injection pump on something went wrong after 2 months have metal chips in lines and where they meet cross tubes. getting new lines cross tubes seem okay.

Ok you might want to head over to the User CP and fill out you Signature... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/profile.php?do=editsignature Since your going for high performance your going to have to do some learning and research. Like the quadzilla Adrenaline is good for 150 HP maxed out which will just about max out a stock turbo for boost. (35 PSI for HX-35) Now additional fuel with injection is going to add heat so your going to have consider a upgrade turbo charger. Now you create a slightly different problem the head gasket can hold till about 40-50 PSI then POP! So be aware you might have to consider ARP studs too to keep the stock head gasket from blowing out. I hear that most can get up to about 100 HP injector with a chip and use the chip to control the amount of fuel. Or you got to control the heat with your foot. For everyday driver I found that a limit of about 400-450 HP is good for a daily driver without much issues.

Yep we need to know more about the rig, Still a stock turbo and injectors? If not what do you currently have. Bigger lines and crosstubes are not needed until going to 200+ sized injectors and a good IP to keep them happy. If you are going to stay under 650 hp range fuel only stock lines and cross tubes are all thats needed.

Be mindful that going to larger fuel injector lines may have an adverse effect on idle and "drivability" issues with an automatic transmission. They are known for causing or amplifying a "lopey" idle.

We need way more info on the truck.You are going to have problems if you just do injectors.Forget about bigger lines and tubes you wont gain.What are your goals ? Do a turbo first. If your long term is twins you can do a 62 or a 64 for now.Or just keep the 64 on.My hrvp pump will lope when it gets 70* or hotter outside,and thats with factory lines and tubes.

Edited January 2, 201015 yr by dually

Or just keep the 64 on.My hrvp pump will lope when it gets 70* or hotter outside,and thats with factory lines and tubes.

Where did you find he has a 64 turbo? I can vouch for the warm weather lope also, the hotter it gets the more it lopes, my 02 is good for it and thats with stock lines and tubes.

Oh sorry,He diddnt say.I was just saying that a 62 or a 64 is a good turbo and that he could "just leave it on" A 64 can be a stand alone or used with twins.I agree with other posts here.Injectors can bring on the heat.Most injector sellers will ask what turbo you have.If we dont match our parts when building engines bad things can and will happen.

Yep a guy on another forum just made well over 700 hp on a 64 turbo fuel only on an 04.5 CR.

Hey,You can go with a set of 150 hp sticks as long as you keep your Quad turned down!!!An 62/68/14 charger is said to be a great match, or if you feel like saving some money and do a little fab work a HE351 out of a 04.5-07 Cummins!!!!! It is a 60/60/9, but has been proven to keep temps down and still get pretty good power! A guy on the CF has gotten 462 hp with 150 hp sticks and a Quad!! He still thinks there is more to be had!!I wouldn't do the crossover tubes as the effects for a daily driver are not so good!! It also retards timing due to making it longer/ harder for the VP to pump up the injectors to their pop off pressure!!I'm going with a set of matched 150 hp sticks from Diesel Auto Power!!! Later,Winslow

You are going to have exterme EGTS with 150 injectors with those small turbos, I have a Silver 62 turbo from II 62-74-14 with 150 injectors and I can still easily peg my 1600 pyro if I want to with HRVP44 and comp on level 3 or higher. I would highly reccomend 90 hp injectors they run smoother and are better matched to your turbo choices, I am even wanting to back down to a 100 hp injector, II said 100 hp injectors would be a closer match to my turbo and I realize this. I ran 90 hpinjectors with a BD super B and that was bordering too much fuel for that turbo. I have read on many occasions to not bother with the 3rd gen turbo swaps to a 2nd gen.......Actually most are installing second gen manifolds and turbos on the 3rd gens.

Hey, Here is some neat info for all: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/151365-he351-retrofit-second-gen.html http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/216421-injector-myth.html Later, Winslow

Just scanning through the info I see that is mostly without a comp box or timing only. They all have disclaimers that wire taps through everything out the window as far as EGTS go and the Comment over and over and over is "MANAGABLE":wink: Which means never take eyes off of gauge, Saw new studies that distracted drivers are being killed at a way higher rate now than drunken driving. Texting has new competition with EGT gauge watchers............:sad4:

Truly sad about the study...But the fact is mine is manageable too... But the only time I worry about high EGT is climbing grades with a trailer. Then I see 1,200 to 1,400*F and done in more than once...

I'm thinking about a set of injectors for mine but not sure what would be best for my truck. Everything besides my sig is stock and not sure about going over stock sized sticks with the stock turbo and HRVP. Any thoughts??

A set of RV275 or +75 HP injectors are fine... Good for MPG's and give a mild jump in power... Very controllable...

A set of RV275 or +75 HP injectors are fine... Good for MPG's and give a mild jump in power... Very controllable...

Just wondering if they would be too much injector for the turbo to keep up with along with the HRVP.

Just wondering if they would be too much injector for the turbo to keep up with along with the HRVP.

Well the HRVP shouldn't be much hotter than a SO VP with an box so I think you'd be fine. Also depends on what you plan to do with the truck. If you're towing a lot, I'd just go with the RV275s, if not the 75 hp would give a little more kick. My 150s along with my Edge can get hot really quick... 1400* without any problems if I'm in it hard. However, driving normal they stay fine even with a 16' horse trailer behind me. Of course that trailer was just hauling household junk so it wasn't heavy by temps weren't even close to being a problem even driving hard, hitting 75 mph+.

Well the HRVP shouldn't be much hotter than a SO VP with an box so I think you'd be fine. Also depends on what you plan to do with the truck. If you're towing a lot, I'd just go with the RV275s, if not the 75 hp would give a little more kick. My 150s along with my Edge can get hot really quick... 1400* without any problems if I'm in it hard. However, driving normal they stay fine even with a 16' horse trailer behind me. Of course that trailer was just hauling household junk so it wasn't heavy by temps weren't even close to being a problem even driving hard, hitting 75 mph+.

I know before I go doing anything to make more power I need gauges. I've been doing a no no and running without gauges on anything for a while since the truck keeps bringing up gremlins.

Just wondering if they would be too much injector for the turbo to keep up with along with the HRVP.

No... I'm running much more that you... RV275 (+40) and Edge Comp (+120) Which put me roughly at 160 HP gain. Still very controllable I run the Edge Comp on 5x5 and tow my Jayco Eagle TT (7,200#) not a problem. I've gone over grade with my cruise set at 60 mPH at 32 PSI of boost and still hovering at 1,100*F not bad at all...

No... I'm running much more that you... RV275 (+40) and Edge Comp (+120) Which put me roughly at 160 HP gain. Still very controllable I run the Edge Comp on 5x5 and tow my Jayco Eagle TT (7,200#) not a problem. I've gone over grade with my cruise set at 60 mPH at 32 PSI of boost and still hovering at 1,100*F not bad at all...

Thats good. Still going to wait until I get gauges in the truck before I go upping anything anymore. I should probably not use it anyway without gauges but I have been. On the gauges part of things, I work in a heavy truck dealer and all the pyrometers on them are after the turbo and all I see on the dodge pickups are pople drilling the manifold to put the probe before the turbo. Which place is better? Or is that another thread?

BEFORE the turbo... After the turbo is 300-500*F cooler... Also you want to be on the 4,5,6 bank which is hotter than 1,2,3 bank. #6 piston is the hottest. It all about making sure you don't burn up a piston so you want to measure the close to the engine. After the myth of pyrometer wiping out a turbo I've never seen one reported yet here, or a host of other forum I've been around...