I've had my truck for 6 years now and towed tons with it very reliably. I'm not chasing big hp, just reliable, usable, and SAFE hp. I've got some ideas but would like to hear from folks who know more than me.Thanks for any and all advice.

I have the Quadzilla XZT+... bought a year or more before Quadzilla closed their doors. There are various tunes available but basically the OFF option puts the truck to stock +35 (economy) I believe is just timing. This is widely regarded as the equivalent to an Edge EZ mileage box.+65-70 is more aggressive fueling map within the stock fuel limits.The VP 44 is not tapped. These VP44 / 24 valve trucks are less powerful than they could be because of EPA requirements... largely retarding timing for less pollution output, at the expense TO US of less power & less mpg. I normally run on the +35 setting & it is really drivable. The better mileage is a plus too. I use the +70 only for towing in hilly country. The extra power bump makes it easier to pull a hill without downshifting... most of the time. Again a big increase in the drivability while towing. There are no big changes to any of the truck systems... A plug replaces the sensor leads & fools the stock computer is all. Because it adds no more than stock fueling (although sooner) it considered safer for stock automatic transmissions. The XZT+ requires a small toggle switch be mounted somewhere, I chose the driver's knee panel... It can be switched on the fly & you definitely notice the results when doing so. I've never gotten around to trying other tunes... I'm satisfied with the tunes that came in it.

You could follow my lead. I'm +50HP injectors and Edge Comp...

I think I want to follow your leads too  . Just found out that my injectors are stock HO 245hp and the guy that I got the truck from said they were 100hp, so i don't even know how powerful these trucks can be, and that this whole time i thought I had 100hp injectors. But I did had a pinched return line to module from vp and injectors, and I do believe I lost some power by fixing it. Can't wait now to save money and get better ones, but I don't want to lose MPG but rather improve it. So what do you think I should go with? I heard that HO motors have different VP's that has more pressure but mot as much on top end like SO. But I'm still waiting to find out if my VP is bad or not, and if I change it out I'm thinking to go with SO pump. Would RV275 or 50HP work good with both pumps? And how much difference is in RV275 vs 50 HP or are they same thing? Thanks for all the help!  

I think the RV275's are about a 40-45 hp over stock. They are like the next step down from the 50's. If you want a nice power and mileage bump, either one would work very well for you.

Start with a smarty. If you outgrow it you can easily recoupe funds and go bigger. Buy from a trusted seller and you"ll be fine .... You'll be suprised what a smarty and 50-75 injectors do to these trucks ..

That's my plan with my truck. I instantly fell in love with my Smarty on just #5, the throttle response ans the low end torque was MUCH MUCH higher than stock. Problem is if you have a heavy foot and like to mash the gas, the Smarty is unforgiving and will give you lots of fuel, most of which will be black soot but it will get that Cummins purring!

I think the RV275's are about a 40-45 hp over stock. They are like the next step down from the 50's. If you want a nice power and mileage bump, either one would work very well for you.

So what do these 50hp injectors called? And what brand are better ones? Is 75hp going to ruin my mpg?

Is 75hp going to ruin my mpg?

 

Basically equal to stock for MPG's again and gained power. So you might see 16-18 MPG roughly on average. What your looking to do is shorten the pulse length but keeping a good tight nozzle hole that atomizes fuel really good. The larger the nozzle the larger the droplet and more heat required to convert liquid fuel to vapor to burn. Liquid fuel will not burn nor ignite.

 

There is only one large injector I know of that is claiming best spray pattern of all but its only for the CR engines which is the BBI Injectors.

 OPPS! Flash just messed up and ate your ECM. Now you walking home. Just a risk I don't want being I have no cell service out here and walking several mile in blowing cold (-20*F) might become very deadly. If the Edge Comp dies I just unplug and keep rolling failures are modular and can be removed my way. So I go home with only +50HP injectors.The other problem I figured out is that Smarty and un-tapped modules play by the same rules. So they can't really math out fuel tables above 20 PSI this why they are flat power wise on top. ECM table is design for stock power all Smarty and other modules do is re-write the boost table not to throw codes and only the stock table there is no room for 20 and above PSI hence the 60 HP limit. So even modules like Diablo Power Puck is the same thing playing with stock ECM tables and just modifying the stock information.The only time you can math out timing and fueling above stock tables is with a wire tap. Hence the timing curves extend well over the 20 PSI boost limit, etc. Now you can modify electronically above the 20 PSI limit by cutting or extending the pulse to the fuel solenoid which the the wire tap goes too. As you can see my choice of module goes well beyond the HP/TQ it considers everything...

 

I disagree with a  aspects of your arguement.... To begin, smarty is extremely safe and reliable. I have unplugged the programmer in the middle of programming just to see if it would hurt anything. Turns out when you plug it back in it just sets everything back to stock. I have never had a hickup and done over a hundred re-programs. Second, with a set of injectors the top end is anything but flat. With 100hp injectors I pull over 30lbs of boost on the top end and can outrun my brother's 05 cummins which is tuned with a smarty jr. As for the quick power changes you can't beat the comp. I have both and honestly love both of them. The smarty is perfect for towing, while to comp makes great top end power. Just my opinion not trying to upset anyone!

I've seen some really bad things happen with both Smarty and Superchips where it left a vehicle disabled and people calling me for a fix. Everything from damaged OBDII port from all the socketing of the programming cord, to the programming cord being damaged creating a bad flash, too weak/bad batteries creating the same thing again.  Just a few of the many phone calls I've gotten from people regarding programmers. Once this occurs the only thing you can do is tow it do a dealer have the OBDII port fixed and stock flash put back put back to the truck. Even the early 98.5 to 99 where highly known to blow the ECM's with because of design weakness of the PROM that wouldn't tolerate the flashing.

 

Just things I've learn of the many years of answering phones.

I like both of my tuners. I run a Smarty with an edge comp and it is the most complete power band for our trucks. The smarty does all the work on the bottom and the comp fills in on the top. Unfortunatlly I haven't found anyone who rents the edge comps yet but DAP will rent you a smarty so you can see how your truck will feel if you chose to buy one.

The low voltage thing can happen to anything that updates the computer. We would have to hook a battery charger up any time we did a flash for chrysler. And, im pretty sure in the smarty instructions it says the same thing. I have never seen any problems with a smarty and I know they have backup files if you ever did have problems with a download. We ran one with an adrenaline on our sled puller and it was amazing. I only suggest people run smartys on third gens and hopefully they start working on the 2nd gen custom tuning.

I run the 275's with the quad 120hp box and smarty programmer. Before I had the smarty, my EGT's were a concern pulling heavy loads so I had to drive by the pyrometers. After the smarty, I leave it on number 5 setting and my EGT's are very manageable now even with a stock HX-35. Don't get me wrong, this setup can really roll the smoke but I have learned to ease onto the throttle and bring the HX-35 on up then I can accelerate at will after that withoit excessive smoke. I am getting decent fuel millage (20-21) with this setup driving 65-70mph everyday for 160 miles. My truck is not quick by any means, it's a 3500 6spd dually with flatbed and loaded tool boxes but from 60mph on up, it pulls pretty dang hard. With all of that being said, I will be giving a lot of attention to the air side of the equation next which is long over due with my mods. Not sure what your goal is but the setup I am running gives me a reliable, efficient, and fun truck to drive. Remember, whatever mods you have, you ultimately control the longevity and dependability of your truck, i.e. throttle control.

Basically equal to stock for MPG's again and gained power. So you might see 16-18 MPG roughly on average. What your looking to do is shorten the pulse length but keeping a good tight nozzle hole that atomizes fuel really good. The larger the nozzle the larger the droplet and more heat required to convert liquid fuel to vapor to burn. Liquid fuel will not burn nor ignite.

 

There is only one large injector I know of that is claiming best spray pattern of all but its only for the CR engines which is the BBI Injectors.

I read another post here that you mentioned you get best mpg when you're edge is on level 5 driving about 55-60 mph. Not sure how much you know about qwadzilla but supposedly on level 1 they get best mpg, now i have 2.2ohm resistor and 60hp injectors, I know speed is the killer for mpg, should I keep it on level 1 or 5 ? Maybe someone else knows more that can jump in. I fought on qwad level 1 was all timing,2 can't remember, 3 I think timing and fuel and level 5 it will be messing with pump stretch and timing and not sure what else.

I read another post here that you mentioned you get best mpg when you're edge is on level 5 driving about 55-60 mph. Not sure how much you know about qwadzilla but supposedly on level 1 they get best mpg, now i have 2.2ohm resistor and 60hp injectors, I know speed is the killer for mpg, should I keep it on level 1 or 5 ? Maybe someone else knows more that can jump in. I fought on qwad level 1 was all timing,2 can't remember, 3 I think timing and fuel and level 5 it will be messing with pump stretch and timing and not sure what else.

 

Talk to Ed Grafton (Yankneck) he would know the Quadzilla angle.