Ok Gentelman I need some opinions on this one. Iv'e seen Mopar1973Man's page on 24v "Valve Lash Adjustment", and according to his your supposed to turn the bolt in the center of the Alternator to get to TDC, or BDC. But iv'e seen videos of guys turning the bolt directly behind the Crankcase Vent to get to TDC, OR BDC. So my questions is which "bolt" to turn? Then again it is 5:00 a.m. maybe my brains not working yet

Behind the crankcase vent is the gear with the timing mark. There is a mark on the cover you line it up with to find TDC. Personally I would not turn the engine by the nut on the IP. I have heard of turning by using the crank damper bolts. I prefer to use the barring tool.

Ok if the bolt behind the crankcase vent is the one your supposed to turn then why turn the Alternator bolt? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok if the bolt behind the crankcase vent is the one your supposed to turn then why turn the Alternator bolt? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wouldn't turn the nut behind the cover that is the Injection pump nut. Turning the alternator would be a better alternative, along with the crank damper bolts. The way I prefer to turn over the engine is with a barring tool. http://www.genosgarage.com/59L-ENGINE-BARRING-TOOL/productinfo/TOOL_LTBT/#.UotoEWbnZdg

I used the alternator bolt when I did mine.

Crank damper bolts? Yea that's what I was thinking the Alternator looks easier! So why would you need that special tool? Wouldn't it be just as easy with a socket? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used the alternator bolt when I did mine.

Same here just use a metric socket on the alternator pulley and turn it to the left or backward rotation till you get your TDC or BDC of the VP44 gear.

Yea that's what I had seen and red on your page, but was just curious as to why i seen people doing it with VP44 bolt. That's what all probably do is just go by your pics and instructions on mine!! Thanks again everybody for chiming in on my questions you guys have been a big help!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mike's direction worked great for me. I had never adjusted valves before. There were great pix to go along with them.

Crank damper bolts? Yea that's what I was thinking the Alternator looks easier! So why would you need that special tool? Wouldn't it be just as easy with a socket? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I originally bought the barring tool for a Case IH tractor with a 5.9. I have since used it on my truck a few times. I like having the right tool for the job.

I used to find tdc but then I just started bumping the motor over until both intake and exhaust were loose on #1 for top and then again on #6 for bottom.

ABennin, I here yea on having the right tool for the job!! It makes all the difference in the world when u have to work on your vehicle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The reason why you not barring the engine over with the VP44 nut its 2:1 ratio so it would require even more torque to twist it over and most likely strip the nut out or break something where the alternator pulley is rather small and doesn't require huge amount of torque to twist it. Not to mention if you try to spin to hard the belt will slip.

Oh ok that makes sense. The video I had watched the guy didn't seen to have an issue with it. But I wouldn't want to take a chance on breaking anything!! Plus your way sounds easier! So let me get this straight before I attempt to do this. You remove the crankcase breather vent to watch for TDC while turning the Alternator bolt correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, you are correct. Here's a picture for reference. TDC mark is at the 12o'clock position

I tend to tell folks not to use the alternator method as it turns the engine over backwards and it promotes a bad habit of doing things in a backwoods manner but on the flip side the tolerances of the B and C series doesn't affect the adjustment but if you tried this on any other Cummins or a lot of other diesel engines for that matter you would have an engine that would develop major internal damage if it would even start because you need to set the injection timing since the injectors are cam fired and are timed via the adjustment procedure and by rotating the engine backwards would put you so far off it would be awefull.

Thanks ABennin! But your pic didn't come up. Also do u have one for BDC? for this one I can't make out in Mopar1973Man's pic. Thanks again!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was always taught never to bar/rotate an engine backwards. From a cummis to a locomotive. Espcially when timing an engine. I always use the crankshaft dampener bolt to the engine. I always watch the rockers just to make wure then for top dead center you do both rockers on one then its intake, exhaust, intake, exhaust for 2-5. Then turn over for bdc and do both for six then do intake, exhaust, intake, exhaust comming back the engine 5-2

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Thanks ABennin! But your pic didn't come up. Also do u have one for BDC? for this one I can't make out in Mopar1973Man's pic. Thanks again!!

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For bdc jjst rotate the engine one complete revolution until the exhaust rocker on number one stops coming up and the intake starts going down

Mopartechnican, crankshaft dampener bolt being the one behind the crankcase vent correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok thanks for the BDC Mopartechnican! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No on the front of the crankshaft. Ive turned the engine over with the vp44 nut since its torqued to 120 pounds or something like that but I just use the dampener because its easy. I also make a mark on the dampener so i know where to turn when i go to bdc