watch as my truck starts and kicks in high idle, then 3 cylinder, the 3 cyl almost stalls my truck, so it kicks off, then 6 cyl come back and then after about 2 min 3 cyl does and stays from that point.

 

is all ok in the video? or somthin wrong with my truck?

I don't think that sounds bad at all.  Back when I had my '99 I had the "opportunity" on multiple occasions to have to start her up after 2.5+ days of -10's for highs and -20's for lows………..sounded 100x worse than that.

 

The white smoke is from incomplete combustion.  My '99 above would "fog" the neighborhood similar to if you were spraying for mosquitos. Even idling for 5-10 minutes did nothing………………I had to "drive" her in order for her to warm up.

 

Are you referring to his first post or most recent?

 

I do not think your second video shows a normal operation at that temp. Mine certainly does not haze like that at an idle and certainly not that way even at initial startup... and I have larger than OEM injectors.

Edited December 23, 201311 yr by hex0rz

Start with the injectors...

I agree pop those injectors out and have them pop tested.

Well if ima take the injectors out, i'm going put some bigger ones back in. there cheep enough, just gotta find me some.

Thanks ya'll for the thoughts.

Edited December 24, 201311 yr by Killer223

When you start looking for new injectors, check out some RV275's. They are a nice increase over stock (about 40-50 hp) and they seem to perform a lot better than stock. You should also see an increase in mpg's too.

If it were me I'd save my money till you check for water building up in the fuel system and/or tank. Pull your oem fuel filter cap (undrained) and see for lots of water in the bottom. Change filter, of course, after draining.

 

Next, I would go get a piece of clear tubing, hook it up in place of a piece of fuel line on the pressure side of the lift pump, not suction side, and see if you have any air bubbles passing thru when running rough.

 

I'd probably pull the tank and get a look see..... look at the filter screens at the bottom of the canister.... the bottom of the tank for dirt and water. At same time change the draw straw and run new 1/2'' lines, possibly, if you haven't already done that. Place a nice size water sep. filter prior to the lift pump.

 

  Also....check for tank collapse syndrom/ sucking air when you pull the fuel cap off after a run.

 

The only known factor here is I could be 1000 % wrong :banghead:

Edited December 26, 201311 yr by JAG1

my lift pump is in tank. i have no problems with it thus far. when i took it apart for inspection there tank was CLEAN, like wow really? it's that clean!?!

i do want to get a water separator and better filter but not sure i want to go fass or airdog. on account of parts are a few days out. my in tank pump are at the closest napa to me.  

I do not have the collapse tank problem no sucking sound after driving and opening fill cap.

 

Thank you all for the responses though. lots of good insight.

My big concern is the intank lift pump and  f/p your reporting on your gauge. You say you are running 20 psi of fuel pressure...

 

I have never heard of those pressures with an intank pump.

 

Me thinks your gauge might be going bad. The electric sender gauge, if that is, while showing 20 could actually be little to no pressure. Electrical gauges are known for going bad.

 

I always start with the least expensive that knows it needs to get changed anyway. That way hopin' to help least expensive way.

 

Mike

Edited December 27, 201311 yr by JAG1

I had the intank pump installed on mine many years ago. Just over a year later I started having issue with bucking and low performance. turned out the pump was putting out less than 1 psi at WOT. If you dont have a FP gauge on it, you need to get one or at least get test gauge and see what it is producing.

Get a MECHANICAL lift pump, like the fuel boss or assassin...

At least start with some kind of a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. The in tank pumps are usually known to only put out like 13-15 psi at idle. I doubt it is anywhere near 20 psi to be honest.

my gauge is working fine, i checked it with a testport gauge, and it's the same. the port on the VP that has the little think to bleed pressure,. that one. and it and my FP were the same.

Killer, even if you got the worse case scenario... with perhaps a new VP or new injectors, you need the 1/2'' lines and a good lift pump.

 

I'd start there to maybe find the problem at least.

 

 I had the elect. F/P gauge and after three bad sending units in 4 years I dumped it in favor of the most highly recommended all matching gauges. It is a world of difference to say the least.

 

Good gauges are worth their money

Edited December 27, 201311 yr by JAG1

injectors i have no idea. maybe stock. i haven't torn into the head to see. not pop tested. i have an edge comp set to 3. smarty was used to enable the hi idle, but has been removed. (for sale soon) sounded like the truck was loading up to me also. im waiting for another -9 night and i'll try it again. the truck said 5 deg my indoor out door said -9

2 min later when the cycle repeated all was fine.

 

if i do need injectors where should i hunt? DAP? its stock turbo with turn buckle. i really don't hot rod it but it's fun sometimes :-D

let me know if you want to the Smarty I been looking.

When you start looking for new injectors, check out some RV275's. They are a nice increase over stock (about 40-50 hp) and they seem to perform a lot better than stock. You should also see an increase in mpg's too.

I agree I just installed some RV275 from DAP love them. They were 405.00 18.00 for new connection tube o-rings, and after sending in core I got 150.00 refund. Hard to beat.

So for with the RV275's and +50HP injectors you can make some seriously good MPG's. Nice power increase without being too wild and smoky.

Thanks, I'm doing a test, for mpg's, the smarty has been removed and I'm using just my edge. For three tanks. Then ima try just the smarty, I only ever ran it on 3. See what one works better. Then I'll sell the other. My edge has hotunlock too. When i sell one I'll buy injectors.

I was running an Edge Comp, Airdog 150, and RV275's on my 01 when I ran it on the dyno years ago...with my Edge on 5x5, my max run was 332.21/741.94.  with the Edge completely off, I ran a 251.56/578.55, with just the RV275's.    Just so you have some actual numbers to go off of...the Edge was just the standard Comp, not the hot unlock.  Now, after I added a few more items to it, well, the numbers were a bit different, lol.

Well something's up, did 130 mike round trip today with 2 dirt bikes in the back and averages 12 mpg. The same trip used to net me 17-18. I'm going to unplug the edge, reprogram my smarty and see what I get. Cuz this ain't cool! You can See when I mpg's dropped.

What was your IAT temp? If you don't know what was the temperature outside during this time?

Scan gauge said 110 ish I think. I know if was over 100, outside air was in the 60's. I stayed around 70 mph. It's got me baffled. Drove fine not clouds of smoke, lotsa power.