i cant afford to pay a shop to do it so i am thinking of doing it my self. i know my way around tools and i have rebuilt gas engines but never a diesel. what i need to know is what rebuild kits are good out there? i seen dap offers one. or should i just go to cummins and get one. i found a machine shop in my area that is supposed to do diesel engines so i am gonna go there tomorrow and see what they charge to do the machine work. the reason i am gonna rebuild is i am getting really bad blow-by it even popped my tappet cover i installed and is blowing oil out there. the truck has a little over 200,000 miles on it but i bought it used. any tips or advise would be greatly appreciated.  

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the only difference between the (98.5-2000) & (2001-2002) was one had the cam sensor and the other had the crank sensor. I don't know if those are interchangeable or not

 

 My 99 service manual shows they had both cam and crank sensors

 

2001 has no crank sensor. I wonder if the 2001 still has the sensor part on the crank, so if you did a 2001 engine swap into a earlier truck you could just add the block mounted sensor ?

Edited February 6, 201411 yr by GSP7

well i started last night taking the bumper and bumper guard off, that took some time. but i started taking everything off today. taking my time and putting everything in marked Baggies so i dont have a hard time remembering where everything goes or having to go to the book every ten minutes. . can somebody tell me what i have to do to separate it from the transmission. do i have to drop the trans too? i have been taking pics so maybe  they can help some one who has never done this before like me. also i noticed some oil in my turbo cooler tube and on the face of the turbo. should i be worried or is it from the blow-by?

 

 

first thing is to wash it get all that blow-by oil off

 

 

 

 

 

What type of air filter are you running? Does the turbo have any shaft play?

i'm using a stock one from napa. when i bought it it had a after market foam one. i dont know if it has any play. how do i check it?

Usually oil on the compressor wheel is caused by using oiled filters. Was the original foam one oiled? To check shaft play grab the nut on the intake side and try to lift up, down, in, and out. Also, inspect and see if the compressor wheel has been hitting the housing at all. If it is exceptionally loose your turbo probably needs some new bearings. 

If you are rebuilding the engine, download the reduilding guide from Holsett & throw a kit at your HX. You can do it while you are waiting for the machining to be done. That way you are "Happy happy joy joy".

 

Ed

to  answer your original  question... Yes,  the  trans  can  stay behind.     You  have to block it  up,   Don't forget that it's  blocked up and  try to  move  the  truck later!  (have the  truck  pretty much  where you want it  for  the  duration)

 

blow by  doesn't  go  through the  intake system.  Your  downstream oil  of the turbo (in the  cooler)  is  coming  from  the  turbo itself,   (seals are  bad)     I've  seen  extremely  plugged  air filters  that  would  make so much  vacuum, that it would  overcome the  seals  and   deposit  oil  into the  air stream... (but the  engine barely ran anyway).   

 

A  lightly oiled   filter  won't put  that much  oil  in  the  cooler..   

 

I've seen   terribly worn  valve  guides  put     oil  back into the  intake.   but  that was  on  naturally  aspirated   diesel.  

 

I  vote  on the  turbo bearing and seal

Edited February 7, 201411 yr by rancherman

I ran  K&N on mine for a while and thats exactly what mine looked like.

I ran  K&N on mine for a while and thats exactly what mine looked like.

other than  some  discoloration on  the  wheel,    I  can't  make out  if it's  actually  'wet'???           

 

He   said  something  about    oil  found in the cooling  part of the  system,  I assumed  the  charge cooler???  (pardon my  "PERKINSese' )

>Aftercooler>  for  the  rest of the  crowd..

 

Geez,  just how much oil  is  put  in those   loaded filters??     shoot,  I  got  an  old  JD  with  OIL BATH   filter,   and  never had any   sucked  into the   intake...  (I'll admit,  its  all  'uphill'  on  a  JD to the  intake,    whereas  our  cummins  is level-to-downhill  to the  turbo) 

I ran  K&N on mine for a while and thats exactly what mine looked like.

Exactly what I was thinking!

other than  some  discoloration on  the  wheel,    I  can't  make out  if it's  actually  'wet'???           

 

He   said  something  about    oil  found in the cooling  part of the  system,  I assumed  the  charge cooler???  (pardon my  "PERKINSese' )

>Aftercooler>  for  the  rest of the  crowd..

 

Geez,  just how much oil  is  put  in those   loaded filters??     shoot,  I  got  an  old  JD  with  OIL BATH   filter,   and  never had any   sucked  into the   intake...  (I'll admit,  its  all  'uphill'  on  a  JD to the  intake,    whereas  our  cummins  is level-to-downhill  to the  turbo) 

 

Mine was a little sticky rather than wet. I wiped a good bit of mine off with a rag soaked in brake cleaner. But the picture could be my turbo. I did not have the same residue in the pipe to the inter cooler, or if there was any i could not feel it. I did on several occasions re oil the filter without cleaning it while in the filter box. K&N recommended in the instructions I believe. 

sorry i should of said it better . the oil is in the tube going to the cooler. i'll take some pics tomorrow to show you guys. i didn't get to work on it today. but will get it out this weekend so i can get it to the machine shop monday 

That means oil is coming out of turbo seals. You need to put a kit in the turbo and the oil should stop!

thanks i'll do that while the engine is at the shop. do i need to clean the oil if any out of the  cooler too?

If you mean the intercooler, than yes you really should clean it out. If there is oil in it, there is a chance of it causing a run away engine. If it is just a little damp then I wouldnt really worry about it but if there is actual oil, needs cleaned. You wouldnt want a run away on your fresh rebuild.

I would still clean any oil residue from the intercooler so if there is any dust it doesn't collect inside the intercooler. It just best to clean everything from the turbo all the way to the manifold.

I remember helping my dad rebuild his 62 ford falcon pickup. My first major auto repair experience. I washed a lot of parts! I was probably 12 years old. If you have any kids, time to get them involved. By high school my buddies and I did our first automatic transmission. That didn't work out so well. But we did a lot of work like vavle jobs on rigs pre emissions. We were pretty capable for high school kids.

I remember helping my dad rebuild his 62 ford falcon pickup. My first major auto repair experience. I washed a lot of parts! I was probably 12 years old. If you have any kids, time to get them involved. By high school my buddies and I did our first automatic transmission. That didn't work out so well. But we did a lot of work like vavle jobs on rigs pre emissions. We were pretty capable for high school kids.

well i finally got the engine out. gonna call the machine shop tomorrow to see when i can bring it down and  ask if he wants me to tear it down before i bring it. i do want to take the head off to see the pistons. i wanted to ask you guys. my brother told me a trans shop told him to change his stock torque converter to a HD one on his dodge. that the stock one takes a dump. have you guys heard of this and if so what converter should i use. i don't want to have to separate the motor and trans again. also if this was your motor what rebuild kit would you use and is there any mods you would do to it. i only plan on pulling my car trailer, camping trailer, and dump trailer. 

Only take in what needs to be machined/measured. Machine shops don't like to disassemble.. I've been

charged for having them remove a couple frost plugs I forgot.

Block, Crank, Rods, Head with valves. Leave everything else home. (valve train, cam, oil pump, anything that bolts on the outside of the castings, (too easy to lose stuff)

re install the main caps, and rod caps. They are needed at the shop.

Take the injectors to a shop for testing/setting.

Have you asked them about what they can get for kits? They can get anything you or I can order, but most shops work out of a main supplier, and sometimes they'll pass on the savings to you, if you use their shop for the machine work.

Seeing how you are going to use your truck, I'd put most of the 'mods' into the trans. I haven't kept up with 'what's the best for automatics' That seems to be an on going evolution... I'm sure the auto guys will chime in for 'current mods' to get a long lived trans