I am installing a fuel filter behind the Raptor pump. I'll be adding isolation valves so that the filter can be serviced with minimal loss of fuel. Will I need to bleed any air out of the system at the engine if I'm working behind the pump?

Probably. You will get air into the pump and cause it to cavitate.

Anytime you open up the fuel system your going to have air and will need to displace it with fuel. The best way is to go to the highest point in the fuel system and crack it open while the lift pump is cycling.

Once you get the ball valves in you may be able to get away with just cycling the lift pump one time before starting the truck, depending on how close the valves are together and how much fuel you have lost. There will still be a small amount of air in the line but if it is a small enough amount the lift pump should be able to overcome it before it makes it to the engine.

Thanks guys.

What kind of filter are you putting in?

Cheapo metal inline old style filter.

Ok just making sure it wasnt a spin on since most of those need to be on pressure side

With the cheap metal inline filter, you will most likeiy have to purge air, but alot less & less spillage with the ball valves. Also, many spin on filters are rated to be on the vacuul side. Personally, if you are going to go through all of this, get a remote head & a spin on with a water drain. It'll last about 20,000-30,000 miles & filter more accurately.

 

 

Ed

Edited March 29, 201411 yr by Yankneck696

One thing that I was not ready for, but it is no big deal. Is the fact that when I cut the line coming from the tank it gravity fed and did not stop so it was siphoning. No big deal just shoved on the ball valve with fitting. I tie wrapped the ball valve handles open so they cannot close on there. There was no inlet screen on the raptor, now I am wondering whether the inlet screen is on the outlet port.

One thing I have been meaning to do, is to put the Schrader valve I am using to bleed air off of the fuel system on a flexible hose that I can put into a container keep any diesel spillage off of the motor and the inside of the engine compartment. Remove the valve inside the Schrader valve and get some fittings to add a 2 foot or so hose and put a small shut off valve on the end of the hose instead of the Schrader valve which is difficult to open without spilling fuel. Drives me crazy when bleeding the fuel lines and getting diesel all over the engine compartment.

Screen is on inlet side

Screen is on inlet side

I know but it was not there.

Oh ya some of the newer raptors didnt have them. They were plugging up with junk. Thats why they started telling you to put an inline pre-filter

Still makes me scratch my head this why the AirDog series was create with a pre-filter and water separator before the pump. Then create a Raptor without the filter and then blame the owner for not installing the filter before the pump. Maybe Pureflow should look at there own design and reconsider that this is not a prefect world and fuel is always dirty and has debris in it. So why isn't Raptor re-designed to include a spin on filter before or something to protect the pump like the AirDog's?

this is what i did, as my 02 had pump intank. also did this on my 04.

 

http://www.cumminscatfuelfilter.com/index.html

Still makes me scratch my head this why the AirDog series was create with a pre-filter and water separator before the pump. Then create a Raptor without the filter and then blame the owner for not installing the filter before the pump. Maybe Pureflow should look at there own design and reconsider that this is not a prefect world and fuel is always dirty and has debris in it. So why isn't Raptor re-designed to include a spin on filter before or something to protect the pump like the AirDog's?

Mike, most write ups on a diesel fuel systems will tell you that you should always have a prefilter.

 

When buying my Raptor, I knew that from my diesel mech book.  In 1996 I knew to add a prefilter to my first gen.

 

I blame Dodge for not putting one on, but then again, it's probably a lot better quality buying your own set up anyway.

 

I agree that prefilter is very important, but, not an inline 'jobby' or a small mesh screen.... It should be a good spin on filter and filter head.

 

As for the ball valves, when I shut mine for filter changes and open them again, I only need to bump once/twice and she starts up again. No need to bleed off air because the valves stop the tank drainback when changing the OE engine filter that is the highest point.

Edited April 5, 201411 yr by JAG1

Jag1, you are right on the mark.

 

Ed

We'll see how my cheapo inline metal filter works. Not too late to do something different. There are even some diesel canister filters at the farm store for about $60. You guys are always looking at spending $500 for every step along the way.

We'll see how my cheapo inline metal filter works. Not too late to do something different. There are even some diesel canister filters at the farm store for about $60. You guys are always looking at spending $500 for every step along the way.

I spent $130.00 for the 2nd gen prefilter and 1st gen was $150.00. Both are Racor filters, the first gen was more money back then, because the filter head has a priming pump.....  handy when there's start, prime, or pump problems.

 

 Drawback is the clear plastic water drain bowls on bottom. I built a protection plate under one down on the frame.   It swings out of the way when changing.

Edited April 6, 201411 yr by JAG1

Racor bowls are made of Lexan. You can also (For some models) get a SS cover plate.

 

Ed

Instead of starting a new thread, I think I will just add to this one. Hope no one minds.

 

I have been tracking down a fuel leak for a few months now. Its not very big, but just big enough to cause hard starts ONCE in a while if I park nose up hill. Coming up to a stop light you can smell fuel sometimes. After checking all the common places (back of the head, return tee, etc) I finally found that the bottom of the stock filter housing was pretty wet. Up until now I though it was the big line fitting going into the bottom of the canister. I tried tightening it up a few times but it was still getting wet. I realized that the hose that comes off the drain valve was wet too. As far as I can see, I think the drain valve is not sealing anymore. I cant tell if it is the valve itself that actually wont stay fully closed anymore or if it leaking where the valve mounts to the canister.

 

I question for you good folk is this. Would it be better to get a replacement valve and just go that route? Or should I remove the stock canister and go with a spin on filter set up there and just eliminate the stock canister? Is that drain valve a common issue?

 

Thanks for any input!!!