Im bout due for an oil change. i usually run VPB 5/40. but the only place in town that has it is 28.?? a gallon.

the local tractor supply has rotella T6 5/40 for 19.?? gallon. but that are all sold out.

so with my new LF9028 extended service oil filter. i'm thinking amsoil at a total of 130$ something or VPB for about 96$

right now i run about 7500-8K miles on my oil. it still looks good not to black.

i'll do a sample and send to blackstone at time of change. but i need to buy oil... what to buy?

i have  at my disposal Travelers, super tech, valvoline, rotella, mystic.

i know clean oil is good. but i don't want to be throwing hard earned cash away if a better oil will last longer and be better for a few more $'s.

 

i would love to get my hands on some of this.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/commercial-industrial-products/oem-endorsed-products/73

but i can't find it online or intown. most people look at me funny when i tell them i want it.

 

i need input!!

Edited December 27, 201410 yr by Killer223

You are already throwing money away with 7500 mile oil changes on syn. I run dyno along with dozens of people I know. About 6 of them sample and change the dyno oil at 7500 with regular filter and all samples come back great with many more miles left on oil ( they are still building a history so they are unsure on how much more they can go). I personally run delvac dyno and fleetguard strat filter. I am gonna try that for about 6 changes then try different extended life filters and bypasses to see how well my sample comes back. Im not a big fan of syn oils its just not my cup of tea.

is it cold where you live? i'm only doing it for the MPG's and the cold start up. what you think i can push this to? i don't want carbon scratching the engine. carbon is hard like diamond, i think dirty oil is bad oil. 

Ya its cold, -17 on tuesday. I know syn are good for cold weather start up but like I said Im not sold on syn. Now if you are running extended oil changes that would be a good use of syn. I wish I could find that article but some guy was at 20k on dyno and around 5k oil filters with good oil samples. And that was a 6.7 with emissions. Now on yours you could easily get 10-12 but it also depends on idle times and many other factors. Your oil sample company should be able to give you a trend on your oil life. As far as carbon, with a good filter, you shouldnt have any problems

Just go to the local WallyWorld and buy 3 gallons of SuperTech 15W40 dino.

Just go to the local WallyWorld and buy 3 gallons of SuperTech 15W40 dino.

 

... and it goes over 80k miles a oil change. Note: you have to still change filters at 7k miles. Ask Dorkweed on the details.

 

 

You are already throwing money away with 7500 mile oil changes on syn.

 

2002 Interval diesel (11 quarts)

 

1996 Interval gasoline (6 quarts)

well,   I've had  good luck  finding  Rotella  t6  5-40   at  wal mart,   as well as   Mobil 1.        I run  these  in   my Jeep.

 

My 'other'  engines  I run  all  Conoco  fleet 15-40 

 

I'm going  to the edge of the  gang plank  again here;          Oil is  going to get black  no matter what  the base oil  is.      The  carbon passing the rings  is going to   end up in the oil.  

 

Now,     dino oil will start to    oxidize   *darker brown* at a lower temp  than   synthetic  But  usually  can't ever see it this color  because  of  the black carbon,    ... hence  the    longer  service intervals  with the  synthetic.  

 

I do  feel  that  in   the whole scheme of things,  and  when  facing   brutal  cold starts without  any  block heaters/garages...  the  synthetic  does  have it's  advantages there. 

 

LOL,   as  far as  the   increased  economy,    I have   little  story here.     back in the  day  we'd   pre prime our  big block  Chryslers  with a   electric drill..   before  installing the distributor.     soon as  the  oil 'hit' the end of the line,   you'd burn out a  3/8ths  drill pretty quick  if  you  weren't paying attention.   (this was back when  hand drills  were pretty  good too)       And   this  was  at   maybe  150 rpm.     

Can you imagine the horsepower required to spin  these pumps?   I fully believe  this is where most  gains  are today by using   'brand x'  or   type X  oil.  And not  so much the   lubricity of the oil itself.

 

I won't  advocate or  condemn   dino or  synthetic...    I will however   tell  anyone  that  says    'this  guy  swears by this'   (in a  truck that has  15000 miles)...   shoot,    ya gotta  take that with a grain of salt!  

 

Now  when  a  fleet owner  says  he runs  'x'  in multiple  rigs,  with millions of miles  between them..   This is  a good   set of  results,   Proven results.

Edited December 27, 201410 yr by rancherman

Rancherman you have to remember back in the day oil was different. Being I work at the local shop you should see some of the newer oils now like the 5w-20 that stuff is so thin its like water. Nothing like the straight grade 30 of back in the 1970's.

Of the oils you listed Mystik would be my 1st choice , Super-Tech next , then the Traveler oil.

Any of these would be a great choice, price would be a deciding factor from there.

I spent many years in the oil industry and know all these oils well.

Edited December 27, 201410 yr by skellyman

Between NAPA, TSC and others I always find valvoline 15w-40 dino for $12/gallon, fleetguard stratapore filters for roughly $15. Can't complain for an oil change with great products for around $50. 

i thank you all for the input. i was under the impression the mystic was Mexico made? i may be wrong. heck my truck is made in Mexico. i'd much rather us oil.

i think travelers is a good oil, same oil as napa, autozone, and other "house brands" may very well try that next.

If one looks at the oil with a microscope, i'm a firm believer in synthetic. the molecule shape and size is alot more uniform in the synthetics.

i've raced dirtbikes for near 25 years, every time i ran dyno 2 stroke oil i've blown the engine up. have yet to using synthetic oils.

i also know that clean oil is best. hence the reason i got the extended life oil filter. i don't get to run my truck very hot every day. some times my trips to the job site are around the 10 mile mark. and some are well over 30.

i do plug my truck in every night during the winter months. makes my coolant temp 116 in the mornin. i like the defrosted windows instead of the long idle times to defrost it.

 

the other thing i think of are the pistons going up n down ar some 2 K RPM, scoring the walls of the cylinder with dirty oil. yes i'm weird and OCD.

so the journey for a perfect oil or an close as one my come, in an imperfect world continues.

 

thank you again.

Rancherman you have to remember back in the day oil was different. Being I work at the local shop you should see some of the newer oils now like the 5w-20 that stuff is so thin its like water. Nothing like the straight grade 30 of back in the 1970's.

I agree  100%  Moparman!   That's why  I also  said  the   flow characteristics that    synthetics  are  probably a better choice  at least in  wintertime...  at least in the  cold start-up situation.   No doubt  the  syn's  will  flow quicker!   After  either is  up to temp,    Then   as  long  as  either is  still  'good' service wise...  (depleted  properties)   the  protection  should  be pretty dang  even.

It's hard not to  think though,  that   easier flowing  syns  will   take less hp  @ the pump.. and  saving  fuel.   

I  run   either  0-30  or 5-30  in the  jeep...   I swear I have  thicker  fuel in the tank... than  this oil going into the pan!

 

I should've said  too that  the oils  we were spinning in those  big blocks  was  straight  50W  Kendall...       100 psi @ idle...   who knows  what it was  @  6800 rpm!   (gauge only went to 100)

 

 

LOL<   lets  back up to the original  intent of  this thread!      Killer223  wanted to  change his oil out.    couldn't find  a certain  brand, for a reasonable price.     What happened??  

 

I'll keep  changing my oil every  100 hours..  +/-  5000  miles  with  my  fleet 15w40.    

the  100 hours  was  a  fairly  common  industry  standard for  mid sized  diesels.. at least in  the ag  sector.    But they  also  had larger oil pans,   5 gallons  was  very common.    Those  engines  were also  'in the dirt'     No one ever talks about   how small  our   oil pans are,  and  how  much faster the oil gets  black.    Same amount  of   carbon,  but it is  concentrated  in a  3.5 gallon  pan  compared to a  5.   It does make a difference.   The extra  1.5 gallon  would  extend  the service life  of the oil  too.    These  days,  newer  tractors   pretty much are running  7.5 or more gallons in the pan.  Voila' !   "extended  service"  !  

 

 

You should see how fast  my jeep gets black...  with it's   7 quart pan!   

in my owners manual it tells me i can run 15/40 down to zero deg, and to run 5/40 syn for below 0 temps. it also says the drain intervals are the same for both dino and synthetic. so i'll more then likely stick with around 10K changes with the newer filter. if i go back to the 16035 then i'll really check out the 7500-10K change intervals. i'ma send off a sample monday that i'm take tomorrow with 7306 miles on it. see what they say, maybe drive the toyota while the testing it being done. any maybe by then the tractor supply will get more rotella t6 in at 19.??

whatcha  running in the  'yota'?      Man,   if you thought  the  oil debate  'here' is  intense..   lol,  you should   see what's  up in    yotatech.com!   it's  vicious!

whatcha running in the 'yota'? Man, if you thought the oil debate 'here' is intense.. lol, you should see what's up in yotatech.com! it's vicious!

My first pickup was a 1992 toyota pickup with the 3.0. I bought it with 108,000 on her. At about 150,000 I started running rotella 15/40 and had great oil pressure. I sold it with 198,000 in 2008. Its still running around today and I know its been rode hard and put away wet

My first pickup was a 1992 toyota pickup with the 3.0. I bought it with 108,000 on her. At about 150,000 I started running rotella 15/40 and had great oil pressure. I sold it with 198,000 in 2008. Its still running around today and I know its been rode hard and put away wet

I also  am  running  my  toyo   22re..   with  the fleet  15/40.     OP  is   'up'  about  2 needles width...  and at least   doesn't go to near 'zero'  at idle anymore.. 

 

just curious..   did that  3.0 ever need head gaskets?   

Ya it had the recall done on it in 2003 for the head gaskets

I don't think there is enough data available on the LF9028 to call it an extended life filter. It has less full flow media than a standard filter and the bypass portion is a small fraction of the size of a standard long life bypass filter.

I would sample at 7,500 and then again every 2,500 miles until you find its life.

Your engine is already rated for up to 15,000 miles on schedule A, but few people use it that way.

Dodge/Cummins can't publish an extended interval for synthetic because there are too many variables and UOA is the only way to know.

Ditch blackstone and use OAI Testing, it's cheaper and I prefer the techs and reports.

As for oil I am shocked you can't find Valvoline, it's in every shelf of every store here.

If you really want a good long life oil get Amsoil AME, it's one of the last CI oils and they are better than CJ oils.

whatcha  running in the  'yota'?    

i run normal Valvoline 10/40. every time i run synthetic in it the front main seal leaks as does the oil pump. normal dino, no leaks.

 

I don't think there is enough data available on the LF9028 to call it an extended life filter. It has less full flow media than a standard filter and the bypass portion is a small fraction of the size of a standard long life bypass filter.

I would sample at 7,500 and then again every 2,500 miles until you find its life.

Your engine is already rated for up to 15,000 miles on schedule A, but few people use it that way.

Dodge/Cummins can't publish an extended interval for synthetic because there are too many variables and UOA is the only way to know.

Ditch blackstone and use OAI Testing, it's cheaper and I prefer the techs and reports.

As for oil I am shocked you can't find Valvoline, it's in every shelf of every store here.

If you really want a good long life oil get Amsoil AME, it's one of the last CI oils and they are better than CJ oils.

i'm running this filter because it stated right on it extended service lube filter.

i will do on the sampling interval you suggest though.

i'm not able to fin the the rating for 15000 mile intervals. my manual states A at 3750 and B as 7500.

 

the Valvoline oil i am looking for is the 15/40 classic. it's still the CI+ oil. not the newer CJ oil. according to the website they still make it.

if the ams oil would be about 130$ or better. however if they are worth the extra coin and last longer i'll gladly spend it. i'm shooting for 10K+ drains.

the oil i use now VPB doesn't even start to darken till about 6500 miles. even now at 7300 its not BLACK, it's darkened some but not charcoal black like what comes out of the tractors.

Edited December 28, 201410 yr by Killer223

The 2004 Owners Manal I have downloaded states 7,500 B and 15,000 A.

Yes it's an extended service interval filter, but it's not designed for our application. The 5.9 that uses it has a very different life. It's a great filter, it just needs to be validated in pickup use.

Gotcha, missed the "classic" part. I don't think you will find any. Chevron still lists Delo 400, non-LE, and it's not available either. About the only place that might still have it would be a marine supplier.

The Amsoil will last the longest.

You can't judge modern oil by its color, too much emissions going on even in 2004. UOA is the only way really know.

You can't judge modern oil by its color, too much emissions going on even in 2004. UOA is the only way really know.

You wouldnt believe how many people think the color of the oil determins the quality. Even when I try to explain it they still dont believe me.