So i unplugged it and now I have temp gauge again now I need to clear the codes. I think there is something wrong with the switch.

So i unplugged it and now I have temp gauge again now I need to clear the codes. I think there is something wrong with the switch.

 

You might contact Ed Grafton (Yankneck696) and chat with him over the issue. He'll most likely have a resolution to the problem.

 

I've also got the diagnostic page in the article database.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/64-mopar1973man-com-high-idle-kit/53-high-idle-mod-diagnostic

I did the tests I do not have the 3.3 ohms on either plug on the water temp gauge in the on position how ever I do have 0 ohms in the off position. Which doesn't make sense as to why the temp gauge works once I plug it back in stock.

Moving a chunk of thread giving it own thread..

Ok. back to the diagnostic. So it seem you missing a resistor. I'm going to notify Ed Grafton to take a peek here.

So the the water temp fooler is for the mpg so if the iat fooler is working the high ldle should still work without the water temp plugged in?

The water temp fooler is to keep the 6 cylinder high idle going continuously. Please PM me about your issue & I will take care of it.

 

THank you,

Ed

No. The ECT fooler is for holding the 6 cylinder high idle. As long as the coolant temp is below 140*F the high idle 6 cylinder will run forever. Which the 6 cylinder mode is rig for anytime high idle use. The 3 cylinder mode is only a IAT fooler so it can't be held. It allows it to cancel when it comes up to temperature. MPG more is just a IAT fooler for warm temperature.

No. The ECT fooler is for holding the 6 cylinder high idle. As long as the coolant temp is below 140*F the high idle 6 cylinder will run forever. Which the 6 cylinder mode is rig for anytime high idle use. The 3 cylinder mode is only a IAT fooler so it can't be held. It allows it to cancel when it comes up to temperature. MPG more is just a IAT fooler for warm temperature.

Just curious how exactly does it idle up, does it use apps somehow and injects more fuel.

The ECU uses the software that is enabled by the DRB3 or Smarty to give you 6 or 3 cylinder high idle

 

Ed.

So now that I plugged everthing back to normal the water temp circuit code is gone but the other code is still there. I was wrong before the code is 0500 speed sensor. So i'm guessing now every time it goes into high idle it will set off the code that there is a high rpm but the truck is not moving. I did the redneck high idle once and used a stick on the pedal and it set off the same code. I would of thought now with the computer doing the high idle it would not set off the code. For the fooler there has to be something wrong with it to mess with the water temp even in the off position.

Here is the P0500 code...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal

I have never heard of a code just from high idling.....

I think I'm going crazy. Yesterday I was ready to throw this thing away. Today is better. First of all feeding the plug ends through the fire wall is a pain.

I have no idea where I got the one error code I posted earlier but it's gone and all is working now at least for today. Except for the 0500 code from what I have found is that some of us get the 0500 error when in high idle for to long. I guess I'll have to live with looking at the check engine light. I have not ran the 3 cylinder high yet.

Just to make sure I'm doing this right I set the mode to gpm, 6 or 3 before starting truck. Then before driving switch 6 or 3 idle to off or gpm is that right or do I need to turn the truck off first? Can you go from off to gpm while truck is running or vise versa?

You can switch while it is running. Just don't do it super slow. The 0500 CAN NOT be from idling. It is usually caused by spinning the tires. 

Just tried 3 cylinder. Wow sounds like a kabota tractor.

Just tried 3 cylinder. Wow sounds like a kabota tractor.

 

 

Now watch your pyrometer gauge. Also if you got a exhaust brake throw it on you'll see huge jump in temperature.

Just tried 3 cylinder. Wow sounds like a kabota tractor.

I resent that comment, my Kubota tractor actually purrs nicely although my B2150 is a 4 cylinder but I know what you are referring to from some of the older 2 and 3 cylinder Kubota rattlers sounded pretty rough.

So I've had the kit now for a week or so. I have no new codes light is off the 0500 is still in there I can't clear it with my code reader or my new scan gauge II, my trucks funny I get link error it takes 20 times before it will let me clear a code. Anyway if I start my truck normal everything is normal. If I set the high idle warm it up then turn switch to off the temp gauge still sits right at 140 even when the scan gauge reads 190. I've even shut the truck down up to 5 minutes and still reads 140 but after a couple of hours it works, weird or is this normal?

Which is reading 140? IAT or ECT?

I have never heard of that happening.

 

Ed

guessing he means the coolant sensor on the dash is reading 140*f