Hello all....

I have a 99 2500 Auto 4x4.....I just killed my in tank factory lift pump after 340km it in turn killed my reman IP...

I installed a Bosche IP Unit I had on stand by....I cycled the Lift pump 4 times at 25 sec each, then with all 6 lines cracked at injector end I cranked.

Got good fuel squirt out of 4 5 6 holes,so i tightened them down...

Cranked again and got good fuel squirt at 2 so tightened it down.

3rd crank session I got fuel at 1 and 3.....so I tigtened them down

Cycled the Lift pump 2 cycles and started cranking to fire.....

No fire... No codes

After 3 plus hrs of continuos cranking I still have ZERO FIRE and Everything seems to check out

I have power to the IP, Ihave cracked lines several times and I get solid fuel, but not as High pressure as I would expect...?

 

Question I have.... pin 5 at IP is fuel shut off from ECM.....could this keep pressure low and not allow Injectors to be firing..?

 

If I clip this is it a hot or neg when key is in on position..?

 supposed to be on the road yesterday...and I am still dead in the water....

 

Moparman I bounced some things off you last year when I replaced my 53 block with a 2001 engine....Ended up with crank sensor and tone ring out front at crank pulley...been running great till this.....

 

Please Call me if you have any input I will be away from computer till later....thanks,

John in Eugene,Oregon

541-232-9958

11 hours ago, Scuba64 said:

Does the 2-cycle oil or Bio clean the system?

Neither do. The only thing that cleans the system is a quality fuel filter. If you want to clean your injectors you have to remove them and disassemble each one and clean by hand. There is no product on the shelf that will clean the fuel system. Just for example Power Service is 400:1 ratio so that means you add 11.2 ounces of Power Service to 4,480 ounces of fuel. More or less pissin' in a pond. I know that you can pick any product take a single injector and soak it for over 24 hours 100% of any product and still have a dirty injector. tried it...

11 hours ago, Scuba64 said:

Do people place on the return fuel line as well?

No. Return pressure is not a requirement. 14-20 PSI supply pressure is the only requirement.

Edited December 19, 20159 yr by Mopar1973Man

Dripley, you shouldn't be passing and doing 90 with that 80 ft. long fifth wheel.

2 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Dripley, you shouldn't be passing and doing 90 with that 80 ft. long fifth wheel.

It is actually only 35' but it does look huge in the picture. Since my clutch install and being able to use the comp, 90 is a possibility. I dont think I want to be in the cap when the tires start flying off of it. I dont think they would like that.

Just now, dripley said:

It is actually only 35' but it does look huge in the picture. Since my clutch install and being able to use the comp, 90 is a possibility. I dont think I want to be in the cab when the tires start flying off of it. I dont think they would like that.

 

not sure whats going on with the replies. I tried to edit my spelling and ended up with the double post thingy.

Yeah I think Michael likes to do everything twice to make sure it's right when setting up the forum. That or we drink so much beer we see double.

VP44 install and new support bracket kit. The support bracket was broke which I did notice until install when it came apart.

It's running with good power. I did not install the Yellow electrical line for the Ottomind.

I have an issue-  high pitch tinny sound (a little like a blenders with metal in it) when I give it gas ans in gear, which wasn't there before.  Can only hear it when giving it gas. The sound is not there at idle, out of gear or cruising . So, not sure if the Ottomind isn't getting info and causing it. 

Any suggestion on the sound? 

Removed OTTOmind and plugged MAP sensor into factory plug.  Issue with sound still there. The truck still has good power and response. 

The starter did freeze "on" when I first started after the VP44 install. I had to replace the starter solenoid.  th

Not sure how to find the issue. The sound is bad enough I don't want to drive it.

Here's the sound from the truck. 

 

Dodge Rattle_crackling_pining Sound.wma

Edited December 27, 20159 yr by Scuba64
added file

Just a shot in the dark here but, when I get that type of sound I spray oil on the idler pulley and goes away. How about the water pump? However, I once changed out my idler pulley to a new one and still had the sound like you describe then put some soap on the serpentine belt and it went away. Another time I did need a new water pump.

I've experienced these things after having my 12 valve for 19 years and my 2002 24 valve for 8 yrs. Over 400 k miles combined

Did you disconnect the Ottomind from the APPS sensor? Mine connected to it also. Beings my ears are not what they used to be I cant hear what you are describing. Almost sounds mechanical from your description. Does not show up except under load.

Is it possible your just hearing the excessive timing from cold IAT temps?

 

Maybe this you can hear it better.  I'll check the APPS.  I can hear it now slightly when I rev it in Park.  Could have I got dirt in one of the injectors and would that make this type of sound.  It's loud during acceleration.

I'm not use to Diesels so not sure what cold IAT sounds like.  I did let the engine get warm.

I'll see if I can get a friend to help so I can open the hood and let them rev it.

 

 

IMG_0073(1).3gp

20151227_162318.mp4

Removed the Banks APPS connectors and install the to factory plug to the APPS with no change.   The starter solenoid when it stayed on it was on for a minute or so before I turned off the engine.  Hard to hear that it was stuck. 

One last time with file.  I had to convert from video to audio due to size.  It's has the 4 speed auto transmission and NOT four wheel drive.  You should be able to hear it with this file.

IMG_0074.mp3

You could make a youtube out of it. Then post the youtube link here.

 

https://youtu.be/egT-6d2r8rU

Here's a Youtube of the issue.  I can now hear it in Park or Neutral when revving. It sounds like it's in the engine compartment by the 5 or 6th injector area.  This can be missing leading of course.   Hope this helps.  I'm going to take the Valve cover off and see if I see anything.

It's kind of hard to tell from the video but it sounds like a bad bearing on one of your accessory pulleys. I would pull the serpentine belt off and try running it again. 

Found the issue- Me!  The vp44 nuts came loose causing it to move with power applied.   I tighten them and the noise went away.  The truck is running great.  Also, the OTTMIND added nothing; at least I don’t notice a change.

On 05.12.2015 at 5:44 PM, Spiegelmann said:

Hello again, so engine wont start if CAN bus connected to injection pump. Disconnecting CAN bus allow to start engine. Really dont know where to find problem? Is it ECM problem? With NO start conditions there is no dtc in ecm memory (

 

Finnaly start an Engine! the problem was in ECM Soft, had sent car to my friend at chrysler dealer shop. Just reflash ECM solved problem ! Thanks for help!

Good to hear