Does anybody know what the stock wheel load rating is, for the rim? I ordered some after market wheels rated at 3,200 lbs per wheel and now I'm worried about them not being beefy enough. I'm mainly concerned about the integrity when the truck is loaded up/towing. They fit the bill when calculating GVWR per axle, but after doing some research on other after market rims they are in the 3,400-3,600 lb range. I'm just curious of what other people have run into...

3,200 pounds should be plenty. Rear axle on 3/4 tons is 6,084 so the per wheel would be 3,042. Then the chances of actually getting there without over doing the GVWR total is rather hard. Being I know my front axle is 4.440 pounds minus 8,800 GVWR so that leaves 4,360 for the rear axle. So that is mere 2,180 pounds per wheel on the rear axle at GVWR. But if you where to go full load to the rear axle that would be 10,524 pounds on the truck total. That's 1,724 over weight.

Where one runs into issues especially with aluminum wheels is side loading them with a gooseneck or 5th wheel trailer and doing tight jackknife turns putting excess side loading on the wheels, look at any tire shop and you will find piles of them in the scrap heap that are cracked or bent from this. I have never done it but have several friends who have damaged wheels this way.

Also some people are way over weight with their 5th wheel RV and never scaled them either.

I've seen big loaded up horse trailers push the tires off the rims of SRW trucks in tight maneuvers!!

Good to know, thanks. Does hubcentric versus lug centric make a difference on our trucks?

Great now I'll be scared towing my gooseneck, how much is too much? Mine is only 14k gross and I don't think I had it over 12k so far. Except once one of my friends friend wanted to move small backhoe across town and he thought it was right at 14k which would still be over for that trailer but figured in town we'll take it easy, yeah we drove it on the trailer and I thought my truck was going to do a wheelie. Found a tag on it that I believe said 18k, so we drove it off the trailer and I told him sorry but you'll have to pay someone to get it done. I think he payed around 300 to get that thing moved, not even sure why he has it in first place without a way to get it around.

PS I though max weight on d80 SRW was 11k

Edited February 19, 201510 yr by Dieselfuture

Good to know, thanks. Does hubcentric versus lug centric make a difference on our trucks?

 

I would aim for hub centric.

 

PS I though max weight on d80 SRW was 11k

 

Right on the door.

Summit Racing Part Number:BRW-908B688045
 

Wheel Diameter:16 in.

Wheel Width (in):8.000 in.

Wheel Material:Aluminum

Primary Wheel Color:Black

Wheel Finish:Matte

Manufacturers Wheel Series:Black Rock Yuma Series

Backspacing (in):4.500 in.

Offset:0.00mm

Wheel Construction:1-piece

Beadlock Functional:No

Beadlock Included:No

Lug Nut Seat Style:Conical seat - 60 degree

Hub Centric:No

Center Bore Diameter (in):5.150 in.

Center Bore Diameter (mm):130.81mm

Center Cap Included:No

Load Rating (lbs):3,200 lbs.

Valve Stems Included:No

Quantity:Sold individually.

Wheel Bolt Pattern:8 x 6 1/2 in.

 

 

So, they are lug centric

Here is the full page.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/brw-908b688045

 

The only reason I suggest hub centric is the hub will center it all up for you. But lug centric will rely on the lug nuts to center it all up.

Our axles aren't really set up for hub piloted wheels, even the stock wheels are centered with the lugs.

The 3500 trucks use hub pilot wheels but the 2500's don't

Edited February 19, 201510 yr by bjytech

just go with Ricksons and be done, function over form

I would aim for hub centric.

 

 

Right on the door.

This is what I was talking about http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_80

_{Even the door stickers are to be taken with a grain of salt as not all "E" rated tires are created equal as far as rated load capacity, this can skew the #'s on the door sticker by quite a little depending on the actual brand tire rating. This is more ball park figures.}

Made in Mexico.

_{Tequila anyone?????}

Bill's right like a friend down the road just got new tires and they are rated for 3,415 pounds in a Load Range E. But I've got 3,042 pounds in a load range E. Still in all even if the tire was like my old load range G's at 3,750 pounds still doesn't change the fact of the designed limits of the truck and safety factors. So even if the tires can do it... How about the wheels? Then are you going over your axle weight rating? How about gross vehicle weight?

   

 

_{Reminds me of the ol saying}

 

_{"Don't worry bout the mule, just load the wagon!!!"}

just go with Ricksons and be done, function over form

 

Rickson's would be awesome, wheel and tires and $2,000-3,000 later. My original plan was to get 3rd gen wheels and powdercoat them, but blasting and coating was $375 and I couldn't find a set of wheels for under $400 to make it worth it. 

Weight ratings are a common discussion, especially when legality is concerned.

 

Each state is different, so those outside of Idaho need to do their own research. But here is what I know about legal loads in Idaho.

 

GVWR means nothing, in terms of legality. All that matters is registered weight and tires. The max single axle load limit in Idaho is 20K lbs, so we are all WAY under that. Next is registration, and in Idaho you register for GCWR. I am registered for 26K lbs. The tire limit is the sidewall limit or 600lbs/in of width, whichever is lower.

 

That's it. My door sticker says 9,900 GVWR, with a 6,200lb RAWR. I am 100% legal to load my rear axle to the 9Klbs the 19.5's can hold.

 

Now, that's the black and white.. .lets talk grey. You can get an unsafe vehicle ticket for being overloaded, such as 19.5' on a Ranger could be DOT legal but won't pass many safety inspections.

 

So you need to know your parts, and there isn't a 2500 out there that is actually anywhere near it's design limits at door sticker GVWR or RAWR, FAWR is a different story.

 

2500 and 3500 Dodge's in 98.5-02 share the same frame, correct? Same brakes? See were I am going... what is the GVWR of a 3500?? That is the number I wouldn't exceed with a 2500, as long as you are within FAWR and rear tires.

 

So on my truck here is what I am comfortable doing, based on knowledge of frame/suspension/axle design limits (not always door sticker).

 

OEM vs Personal

 

FAWR

5200_____5200

RAWR

6200_____9000

GVWR

9,900_____12,200

GCWR

23,000_____23,000+ (never really needed to go above it, but it's based on acceleration and ability to hold speed, I'm good there).

 

On an average camping trip I am 4800 FAW, 7,100 RAW, 11,900 GVW and 20,000 GCW. I am over my door stickers on 2/3 of ratings and 100% legal, and not running the risk of getting a safety ticket either.

 

YMMV, so do the research and determine your personal safety level from there. I am probably safe exceeding 12,200 GVW based on all the 5er and TC folks that do it on my frame without issue but 12,200 is enough for me 99.999% of the time.

 

In the end if you are not sold on exceeding your door sticker limits then don't.

The problem with using the 3500 GVWR numbers is there is no SRW option for 3500s. Depending on MY and gearing/trans options, the GVWR of an 01 3500 DRW is 11000 lbs with a RAWR of 7500lbs. This would put virtually every SRW truck over their tire/wheel ratings unless they had 19.5s or some 18" wheels, depending on tire/wheel configuration.

I found my ricksons used 12 years ago on eBay, one of the best buys I ever got from there

I guess I feel better anyway, the axle is rated at 11k so before we brake that, we will blow tires and bent rims.