I should be hopping on the dyno this weekend (As long as my brother doesn't blow up his 05 first)

Couple of questions: Anyone have any thoughts on which level for a smarty only run? Any thoughts on which level for a smarty + TST run? 

 

And for the fun part! Guessing

Give your guess for: Smarty only and smarty + TST   My sig is up to date!

Am definitely interested in what you put down, I'm buying a new turbo this spring and am 95% sure I will be buying a phatshaft.

I've never ran my Smarty stacked, but being your goin for broke I'd think 9 on the solo run and 8 stacked. Then max out TM, injection timing on 3-4 and duration 4.

Will be "watching" from Ohio!

325 with everything turned up. Not much difference without the smarty and 275 with only smarty. I was ever happy after I got off a dyno and every dyno was different.

oooo 475hp and 500hp

I should be hopping on the dyno this weekend (As long as my brother doesn't blow up his 05 first)

Couple of questions: Anyone have any thoughts on which level for a smarty only run? Any thoughts on which level for a smarty + TST run? 

 

And for the fun part! Guessing

Give your guess for: Smarty only and smarty + TST   My sig is up to date!

 

Did ya  get the  miss fixed?

You going to to see a cut off where the Smarty drops dead at. The low end will look really good but after 20-25 PSI of boost the numbers will flatten out. Because at that point the fuel table ran out and your running solely on injectors.

Am definitely interested in what you put down, I'm buying a new turbo this spring and am 95% sure I will be buying a phatshaft.

I've never ran my Smarty stacked, but being your goin for broke I'd think 9 on the solo run and 8 stacked. Then max out TM, injection timing on 3-4 and duration 4.

Will be "watching" from Ohio!

TST does not do timing so I will be running odd numbers at all times on the smarty!

 

 

325 with everything turned up. Not much difference without the smarty and 275 with only smarty. I was ever happy after I got off a dyno and every dyno was different.

Think that low with the injectors and turbo?? I know I'm at altitude but I can blow away tuned CRs

 

 

Did ya  get the  miss fixed?

Nope.... Figured what the heck if it's something bad enough it'll fly apart on the dyno and I'll know the problem

 

You going to to see a cut off where the Smarty drops dead at. The low end will look really good but after 20-25 PSI of boost the numbers will flatten out. Because at that point the fuel table ran out and your running solely on injectors.

It'll be nice to see where the smarty falls flat on it's face. I was thinking leaving the smarty alone between smarty only and smarty TST runs just to see the difference in graphs. Although you'd be surprised... I pull hard up to 37 psi on the smarty only.

I would put you in the 450 hp 800 tq range with the stack and smarty alone I would guess 375-400 ish.

Whoops, saw the turbo but missed the injectors. I will say 425 or so.

Like me I missed the TST box. So it should fuel really well.

Hopefully all goes as planned! But if my brother manages to blow something up on his CR then I won't do any runs with the TST. Can't break both trucks in one day 

Do your run first then...

Do your run first then...

 

Sounds like a challenge to me....

Sounds like you guys want me to break it!! Only thing I'm scared of breaking is the input shaft to my trans.

My brother's 05 well it has a bit more done: 62/65/14 over s475/96/1.32 Exergy 100hp injectors, Industrial 85% over cp3, arp 425s, 03 intercooler (Blew op the stocker), SB DD clutch, nv5600 trans, 110lb valve springs, UDC tuned by me.... It should lay down some pretty nice numbers! You guys have any guesses for it??

The only thing that going to happen is get up on the roller. They tie you down. Then the controller will tell you what to do. Typically you get into your highest gear and hold for a second controller will tell you to drop the hammer. You'll run up to near 3k on the tach then let off. I've been to several dyno events with a local Idaho group.

 

 

_{Intercooler boots are the most common thing I have seen blow on the dyno. make sure the clamps are tight before doing it. The other failures come from guys running too much Water meth or nitrous.}

 

_{At the big dyno events the Dyno owner /  operator runs all rigs on the dyno to get a better more accurate run from all rigs, he will ask for the basics from you and then make a few feel runs to see where the tranny wants to kick down at ect.}

I won't run it in 5th. 4th gear only for me.  I believe we can drive if we want... I mean it's a manual so it can't be too hard! Drop the hammer when they say go!  Wild this one is next door to ATS. 10 days is the ATS dyno event.

4th will give you similar hp, but less torque than 5th. I saw a 50 ft/lb drop in tq doing my runs in direct instead of OD, as the turbo doesn't have time to light at the lower rpms in direct.

 

How you load the engine prior to the green light is how good your torque will come off. Personally I get to 1400-1500 rpms and start aplying brake and throttle to get the load/boost up and then let her rip. The total and mid range power is very different than just dropping the hammer.

 

Take a few seconds each run while you prep to ensure the motor it up to operating temp as well.

I won't run it in 5th. 4th gear only for me.  I believe we can drive if we want... I mean it's a manual so it can't be too hard! Drop the hammer when they say go!  Wild this one is next door to ATS. 10 days is the ATS dyno event.

 

 

4th will give you similar hp, but less torque than 5th. I saw a 50 ft/lb drop in tq doing my runs in direct instead of OD, as the turbo doesn't have time to light at the lower rpms in direct.

 

How you load the engine prior to the green light is how good your torque will come off. Personally I get to 1400-1500 rpms and start aplying brake and throttle to get the load/boost up and then let her rip. The total and mid range power is very different than just dropping the hammer.

 

Take a few seconds each run while you prep to ensure the motor it up to operating temp as well.

 

This is totally dependent on if it is a load cell dyno that puts a load on things for you which if calibrated is the best and most accurate, or an inertia dyno, the most common but less accurate in this case then John's advice is best.

curious   Since   HP  is just  a  dumb  mathematical number  derived  from   torque vs  speed.    And  torque   should be measured  by  how a shaft  responds  to  increasing loads...

 

Does  anyone  KNOW   whats  going  on   with   the    drum   when the  green light  goes off?   Is it  a  simple    constant load,  or is it  being   increased or  varied    as  drum  rpm  goes up as well?

 

I've  measured a lot of   engines  with   the    pto  method.    Run the engine  up to  rated speed,  and   start  increasing the load  to a certain  rpm drop.     The   'difference'  is  then  calculated  to  a  torque  measurement,  and    from that     HP  is  easily  calculated.

Granted,  this  way is   for   true 'rated'  HP,   one  where  the  engine could  withstand this load  continuously,   day after day.

Point I'm  trying to ask is;   unless  the     load  increases, (which  on a  could be programmed to  change several times a second)  and  engine performance  is  instantly measured      Nothing  really can't be compared  and  then   calculated!    a  simple  spin up   from  zero to  100mph   means nothing    on  a     static load...  unless it's  timed.

All I've ever seen is  a  quick spin up... and  a bunch of   guys  huddled around  a  computer  screen  and  giving  high 5's...

The drum is a set weight and the computer measures engine rpm versus drum speed and then there can be many different settings within the programs for elevation humidity ect ect and can be a corrected or uncorrected number based on a whether or not a lot of this info was entered which on dyno days it is not so it is uncorrected numbers which is a ball park figure within +-10% accuracy.

 

Most guys are deathly afraid of load cell dynos because to do it correctly you are doing in essence what you do with a pto dyno and load the hell out of it and run it up through out the rpm band and hold it for several seconds and do it over about 2-3 runs to get averages of different load / rpm ranges. I ran on one of these in Billings at G&J diesel days and this thing will make a lot of rigs beg for mercy and a lot did have failures on the dyno due to the constant load being held for several seconds. This separates the men from the boys and quickly weeds out the talkers because these are the true corrected numbers gotten the proper way versus a weighted drum inertia dyno where uncorrected numbers usually show higher than they actually would be on a load cell.

 

On my 02 I would regularly see 560 hp 980 tq on 2 different inertia dynos locally but one was a load cell that could be used either way and upon doing it as a load cell I would drop about 15-20 hp but gain about the same in torque this at around 1800 feet elevation, at G&J diesel in Billings at approx. 5500 feet elevation corrected numbers I was roughly 30-50 hp/tq less as on an inertias at 1800 elevation uncorrected.

 

I also ran a few timed drag races both 1/4and 1/8 mile and I found that your ETs & reaction times can be used to figure HP as well and it is very accurate when you plug the numbers in I came out almost to the exact #'s as on the dyno.

I had horrible asleep at the wheel reaction times but really good overall run Et's and I could not figure that out until someone explained this to me and said I make really good HP down the track to make up the difference this is when I started comparing #'s and was surprised by it.