is it possible to remove the sending unit without removing the fuel tank?I want to see how much of a job it is to increase the fuel suction lines.

The 1/2" draw straw does it require to drill a hole in the tank?

6 minutes ago, wagntagn said:

The 1/2" draw straw does it require to drill a hole in the tank?

Yes.  I like vulcans simple kit for draw straws.  And dropping a near empty tank isn't hard.  Vulcans instructions are good ashops well as Mikes article.  Although I think it is even easier to drop the tank using two small ratchet straps and a friend.

 I lost a little usable fuel as it will suck air occasionally on hard stops or hard acceleration below 1/8th of a tank, but the increase in fuel flow is worth it.  My factory pickup would keep flowing to darn near zero fuel.  

Edited January 19, 20169 yr by CSM

1/2" drawstraw sounds like a good one but my truck is parked for the winter with a full tank ,I noticed JAG1 your set up on the fuel sender is that doing the job as good?What is required on your set up?

On ‎1‎/‎17‎/‎2016 at 5:48 PM, JAG1 said:

 

I also added a boat tank vent going up behind the fuel door to eliminate the factory vent since they are known to cause problerms.

 

What is a boat tank vent?  I am having trouble with either pressure or vacuum.

 

Go to West Marine online catalogue under engine parts, fuel tank accessories you will find a simple tank vent without a flapper built in. The flapper or one way valve that Dodge designs, is what gets clogged with dirt or simply fails over time. Especially located down low just above the tank, it's probably getting dust and moisture sucked in most times your driving. Locating the new vent up higher just inside the fuel door is better. This why I recommend you just go find a fuel cap that has a tank vent built into it. Much simpler and has the one way safety valving 

 Dodge uses a one way valve in case of a roll over, fuel won't be leaking and feeding a possible fire. This is why Dodge calls their vent an Anti-Rollover Valve.

Anything concerned with highway safety is a good, so if you do your own tank vent you could be violating highway safety laws. I did mine when only concerned about keeping the VP happy. I'm recommending you don't do it. Just go find a fuel cap that has it's own vent........ it will have an antiroll valve built in.

On ‎1‎/‎19‎/‎2016 at 3:17 PM, wagntagn said:

1/2" drawstraw sounds like a good one but my truck is parked for the winter with a full tank ,I noticed JAG1 your set up on the fuel sender is that doing the job as good?What is required on your set up?

It's worked out fine, but you don't need to go to the extreme I did, just do the Vulcan draw straw and go buy a vented fuel cap. That would be the best.

I am looking at possibly changing to a fuel sump with a protection plate. I think this is much better.

Edited February 26, 20169 yr by JAG1

I'm going through a similar process right now. I've been trying to keep track of everything as close as possible in my thread HERE.

Finally got to pull the sender out,I want to keep the original piping on it and add a 1/2" suction,did somebody do the mod on this sender?Not sure how to fit the new hose in the bowl as the original set up is hook up to a strainer at bottom here's a few pics,the bottom is a strainer with some kind of a check valve can't get it apart.

That doesn't look like it has the in tank pump but can't tell for sure by those pics. 

 

I believe you'd use a drawstraw 1 but don't quote me on it, just check Vulcans website or call Eric to verify you get the right one for your module. 

 

Here's how I modded mine, but keep in mind it's replacing the in tank setup and I also added a 1/2in return line.

 

 

Mine is completely different,I would like to keep the existing piping,I'll have to check to see if they sell a drawstraw for my unit,I noticed the strainer on your set up does it come in the kit,my unit is a screen at the bottom,only way for the fuel to enter the unit.Also I'll try to fix the level sensor showing full tank all the time?

What stock piping are you wanting to keep?

Which strainer are you referring too?

What year truck is this off and if the stock lift pump attached to the engine block?

 

If you could take a pic of the top of the module and one looking down inside it might help a bit.

Use a utility knife and cut those screens out if your planning a prefilter before the frame mounted lift pump.

 

 

Working out of town so no pics for now,truck is a 2001,what I want to do is keep the existing system with the ddrp on the engine for back up and then install a fass150 closer to the tank if budget permits if not leave all steel lines up to the engine and move the ddrp closer to the tank and install a prefilter with 1/2" lines .Cutting the filter at bottom sounds good.

Back at it did the opening for access,next fit a bulkhead on the sender,did somebody experience a full tank at all time is there a fix on the level sender

Is this something you fabbed, if so do you have location, dimensions, etc. It looks great 

That looks really good! If I had the flat bed I'd definitely look into this.

 

As far as the fuel level full at all times...

 

Just make sure that you put it back in at the same orientation that it was stock ie; make sure your stock fuel lines are pointed towards the drivers side-ish. If for whatever reason it does get stuck, just get under there and beat on it with a rubber/plastic hammer and it should come loose.

Build my own here's a few pics with mesurements

for the fuel level I'm picking up 20 0hms (empty) & 120 ohms(full) is that normal,here's pics

1. Done with the sender 1/2" bulkhead from the sender to the Fass did you guys go with suction hose?

What did you do to resupport the bed frame that is cut? Specifically the passenger side frame... I had to make a front to rear support for that.

Did FASS not provide a new auction hose? If not you should get ahold of Eric at Vulcan and get one. I'd advise against using the stock suction hose as it's a really small diameter and has the potential to collapse in on itself under the high suction pressure from the FASS.

 

I'd also suggest pivoting your bulk head fitting 90* one way or another to help ease installation of he hose, or any future adjusting. My suction fitting faced towards the back of the truck and I just ran a little longer hose.

I ran mine toward the rear as well for easier routing of the hose