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SWEEEET!!!

As for fuel, it's located on the block from the factory. Since the IP was replaced by the dealer you now likely have the in-tank pump.

I'm not familiar with the mechanical pumps, but personally I shy away from them. Fass has a perfectly reliable electric pump and they are simpler in my eyes. Either way, usually new pumps come with new fuel lines. Run 1/2 inch and be like the cool kids haha! 

The liberty module makes it much easier to plumb the new pump in. No dealing with the in-tank pump or installing a draw straw. 

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Is the liberty module the in tank pump?

That was my big hold up when it came to the fuel boss as every instruction manual I've seen of them have the stock lift pump wired and plumed into the FB but it's based of the LP being in the stock location. I'm not opposed to a FASS system, just figured if I had a choice I'd go mechanical because I liked having the stock as a backup. If my in tank is only going to complicate things, I might just go FASS

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The liberty module is just the basket with suction and return lines all plumbed in. 

I could be wrong, but I think you'd have to have an electric pump wired in series with the mechanical pump to prime the system before starting. Whether that can be done with the in-tank pump or not, I'm not sure.

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Ahh ok.

From what I've read on here and instruction manuals, the fuel boss recommends you leave your stock lift pump in place to make priming the system after a fuel filter change easier, but as soon as the engine gets up to idle, a hobbs switch will turn off the stock lp and the fuel boss takes over fueling the truck. I'm not sure if that's still an option with the in tank lp though. Might just be as simple as running a longer wire for the hobbs switch back there, or might be a lot more difficult.

I read up on the FASS and they say you need to drop/drill your tank for their suction kit in order for things to work correctly.

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Nice truck.

I would put some priority on the steering and brakes with those 35" tires. If the 3rd gen calipers haven't been done I highly suggest you do it. You'll need the extra braking power to stop those 35" from turning. Then steering wise the steering and suspension doesn't hold 35" very well so I would consider all the little upgrades like the 3rd Gen track bar and the steering box brace if its not done already.

Then I would dive on fuel and power. Because I would rather be able to control a tame truck that lose control of a wild truck.

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My truck had the in tank pump and I installed an AD II. It cam with a kit to eliminate the in tank pump and modify the fuel basket for pickup and return. It has worked very well. No problem running the tank dry. I would think Fass would have something similar. Not advocating AD, if I was buying today it would be Fass. Not knocking the mechanical pumps, folks seem to be having good luck with them.

The truck looks nice from the one photo. How about some more?

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Matt this truck you got looks real nice. I'm glad you didn't fall for the other one and the members here had a chance to help you with this.

You should save your money and not get the Liberty module. The stock one can be modified by placing a half inch draw straw. I have the very first draw straw prototype Eric made in my stock module.

 Some thoughts;

Inside the fuel tank lift pumps is big no no,

Get the Fass and you'll have a prefilter to protect the Lift pump which lets you cut out those in the module factory screens.

You can place 1/2'' ball shut off valves either side of the new Fass to change filters easier and not loose prime when changing the stock filter on the engine.... no tank drain back.

Just go with 1/2'' lines all the way... Eric's got a good kit for that and makes a major difference in flow.

The mechanical pumps so far so good but I still have an opinion that an electric L/P is going to show more reliable when talking Fass. The Jury is still out on this but I like the change ability to a new Lift pump if I'm out on the road. I carry an extra engine factory L/P in the tool box just in case.

 

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1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Nice truck.

I would put some priority on the steering and brakes with those 35" tires. If the 3rd gen calipers haven't been done I highly suggest you do it. You'll need the extra braking power to stop those 35" from turning. Then steering wise the steering and suspension doesn't hold 35" very well so I would consider all the little upgrades like the 3rd Gen track bar and the steering box brace if its not done already.

Then I would dive on fuel and power. Because I would rather be able to control a tame truck that lose control of a wild truck.

I think I'll make steering/suspension #2. I just don't want to take a chance on the in tank lift pump failing and being our a vp44.

Are the 3rd gen caliper upgrade a bolt on swap? Is the 3rd gen track bar and steering box brace all thats needed to clean up the front? I'll go through and change end link and check ball joints as well in the process. Steering is where I was going to need some help since I've never owned a truck with any sort of lift before and not sure what all needs to be done for reliability sake

1 hour ago, dripley said:

My truck had the in tank pump and I installed an AD II. It cam with a kit to eliminate the in tank pump and modify the fuel basket for pickup and return. It has worked very well. No problem running the tank dry. I would think Fass would have something similar. Not advocating AD, if I was buying today it would be Fass. Not knocking the mechanical pumps, folks seem to be having good luck with them.

The truck looks nice from the one photo. How about some more?

If Fass offered the same thing, that would probably be enough to sway me. As far as I know now, Fass requires to drop the tank and drill a new hole for their suction kit. I'd rather not go through all that just due to my technical expertise, or lack there of! I sent an email to glacier diesel to ask about the fuel boss with in tank pump so we'll see what I get back from them.

I'll get some more pics eventually and when I do I'll throw them up in the garage! :cool:

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2 minutes ago, notlimah said:

I just don't want to take a chance on the in tank lift pump failing and being our a vp44.

Then you should see the 2001 in my shop right now with ZERO PSI of fuel pressure. Still starts and runs like no issues and even got a Edge Juice wire tapped. No fuel pressure sender install. Really lame. :doh:

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33 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Matt this truck you got looks real nice. I'm glad you didn't fall for the other one and the members here had a chance to help you with this.

You should save your money and not get the Liberty module. The stock one can be modified by placing a half inch draw straw. I have the very first draw straw prototype Eric made in my stock module.

 Some thoughts;

Inside the fuel tank lift pumps is big no no,

Get the Fass and you'll have a prefilter to protect the Lift pump which lets you cut out those in the module factory screens.

You can place 1/2'' ball shut off valves either side of the new Fass to change filters easier and not loose prime when changing the stock filter on the engine.... no tank drain back.

Just go with 1/2'' lines all the way... Eric's got a good kit for that and makes a major difference in flow.

The mechanical pumps so far so good but I still have an opinion that an electric L/P is going to show more reliable when talking Fass. The Jury is still out on this but I like the change ability to a new Lift pump if I'm out on the road. I carry an extra engine factory L/P in the tool box just in case.

 

Yea you guys definitely helped bring up some points I had over looked on the other truck. Didn't help the guys case when he stopped returning all my calls and then suddenly posted another add 1500 dollars cheaper then he originally had posted and said he needed it gone this weekend haha! Made my choice even easier!

I'll definitely go 1/2" all the way, think I had a brain fart earlier with the 3/8s. My main reason for leaning towards the mechanical pump is that pressure will always increase with acceleration. Like I said earlier, it looks like fass wants you to drill a hole in tank for their suction kit which is something I'd rather not do. If the fuel boss requires the same, then its a toss up and I'll probably for fass just because the added filtration.

Although with the fuel boss you can still use/save your stock lift pump and leave it in place without having to keep it in your tool box just in case.

ughhh decisions decisions haha

6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Then you should see the 2001 in my shop right now with ZERO PSI of fuel pressure. Still starts and runs like no issues and even got a Edge Juice wire tapped. No fuel pressure sender install. Really lame. :doh:

haha that was the case on my 99! Drove it all the way from California, put on my gauges and got 0psi! But still ran like a champ!

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I didn't know about drilling the fuel tank for the Fass. I suggested Fass  because other guys like the filtering.

I have an Air Dog/ Raptor pump with a Racor brand filter in front of it.

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1 minute ago, notlimah said:

Although with the fuel boss you can still use/save your stock lift pump and leave it in place without having to keep it in your tool box just in case.

Even with my AirDog I kept my old Big Line Kit from Vulcan so I've got the fittings and wiring extension so I can hook a stock pump in with little effort. Unscrew the AirDog lines and hook up the stock pump and electrical. Done. Still operating on the 1/2 line and still removed all the junk banjos. But still have an option for stock or aftermarket.

With any upgrade pump you will have to change the pickup assembly in the tank you have no choice. Even the stock non-pump sender is not big enough for any lift pumps.

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I like the truck. Any details on the transmission?

I see a levelling kit... with that at 2 inches, you need an adjustable track bar.  I removed my kit as it was trashing components from the spacer/trackbar driven misalignment.

 

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A two inch level kit can be done right like you say CSM but the key word is to do it right. Sometimes I think the 35 inch tires will hide some of the problems of a 2 inch leveling kit when not done correctly.

Matt take a look straight down over the wheel wells to see if the wheels/ tires are projecting out the same on each side of the truck. That wiil tell something.

Edited by JAG1
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The AD kit that came with my FP all installed in the basket, supply and return. It did however remove the pump if you are thinking about leaving. Either way removing and modifying the basket and or tank is not a big deal. 

The one thing I have always wondered is when I run the tank low and all the return fuel is going into the basket, just how warm the fuel might be. 

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27 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

A two inch level kit can be done right like you say CSM but the key word is to do it right. Sometimes I think the 35 inch tires will hide some of the problems of a 2 inch leveling kit when not done correctly.

Matt take a look straight down over the wheel wells to see if the wheels/ tires are projecting out the same on each side of the truck. That wiil tell something.

Or just look at the sway bar.  It isn't level and the links are probably trashed.

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40 minutes ago, CSM said:

I like the truck. Any details on the transmission?

I see a levelling kit... with that at 2 inches, you need an adjustable track bar.  I removed my kit as it was trashing components from the spacer/trackbar driven misalignment.

 

Trans is stock as far as I know. Towed pretty rarely and never had a 5th wheel or gooseneck. The previous owner took it to the dealer for everything so I've been meaning to call that dealer and get a run down of all work done to it.

What kit are you saying you removed? Im definitely going to look into an adjustable track bar.

34 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

A two inch level kit can be done right like you say CSM but the key word is to do it right. Sometimes I think the 35 inch tires will hide some of the problems of a 2 inch leveling kit when not done correctly.

Matt take a look straight down over the wheel wells to see if the wheels/ tires are projecting out the same on each side of the truck. That wiil tell something.

I'll take a look for sure. Like I said, this area of the truck is pretty new to me so I'm learning from scratch here. From what I saw looking underneath before buying is things are definitely worn but no metal on metal her, bushings are still holding on. If my commute to work was any longer I'd be doing steering now.

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You either have the 2 inch spacers on top of the factory springs or taller coil springs. Wheels projecting out the same is important and can only be attained by the adjustable track bar. It's important because an off centered front differential can cause vibration and excessive wear.

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Congratulations are in order.  A great find on a gently used  clean truck.  There should be many mile of happy motoring left in that truck.

Still looking for that #53?  If it is a 53 block  you'll find the number on the lower right front side of the block, below and forward of the oil filter.

I installed a Fuel Boss after going through one factory, two campaign lift pumps and reading 'brand A pumps are good' then 'brand A pumps are failing because of a bad production run' or 'the company was sold and their using cheaper part now'.  For the electric priming pump I installed a cheap Airtex. I run with it up unplugged  and will use it if the belt on the Fuel Boss brakes or I need to prime the system.  The belt look like it will go 50k+ and to change it all you need is a ½ " opened end wrench.  I'm running the  ⅜" fuel line that came in the kit but if I was to increase power out put I'd install " line ½".  When these trucks were under warranty one of the fixes for the lift pump problem was to remove the Carter pump on the side of the block and put a new fuel sender/lift pump combo in the tank.  Your truck my have this combo  either an AD kit or a draw straw.   It's a good feeling seeing 17-18 psi @ idle and 20-21psi going down the road. 

DSCN9693.JPG.6a89350e866e025eeceb07dd473

                                           Cruising in the slow lane with 21psi

     The Y fitting in the fuel line from the tank goes to the top line with a check valve and the Airtex   fuel pump.   The lower line goes to the Fuel Boss at the front of the engine.  The original metal fuel line is now the return line. ↓

DSCN0018.JPG.0657ec257fe72e8e9a803b891f5

Edited by IBMobile
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6 minutes ago, notlimah said:

 

What kit are you saying you removed? Im definitely going to look into an adjustable track bar

Levelling kit.  I already had a 3rd gen track bar... and the extra height didn't help me any.  It steers way better stock than levelled.

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So.... the vulcan module replaces everything int the tank. There's no need to drill holes or do any modification if you go with a fass and a new liberty module. The fass also comes with 1/2 inch lines. No need to worry about ordering those. 

I'll stay out of the suspension talk... I've got enough issues there myself :shifty: 

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1 hour ago, TFaoro said:

So.... the vulcan module replaces everything int the tank. There's no need to drill holes or do any modification if you go with a fass and a new liberty module. The fass also comes with 1/2 inch lines. No need to worry about ordering those. 

I'll stay out of the suspension talk... I've got enough issues there myself :shifty: 

I wonder how differant the liberty module is from the in tank pump retrofit? I have not been able to find a comparison. I have to admit however I did not do aot of looking.

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IBM, you do good work but what's that CHP doin in your mirror keepin a close eye on you :lol3: 

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4 hours ago, TFaoro said:

So.... the vulcan module replaces everything int the tank. There's no need to drill holes or do any modification if you go with a fass and a new liberty module. The fass also comes with 1/2 inch lines. No need to worry about ordering those. 

I'll stay out of the suspension talk... I've got enough issues there myself :shifty: 

So basically, if I go with the fuel module from vulcan, it would eliminate the need to drill a hole in the tank and put a suction kit in it? Obviously it seems either way would require a bed removal or tank drop, but if I can avoid drilling (I know I know, it's probably way easier then I'm making it out to be) I'd prefer that. Plus if it keeps things less cluttered then I'm all for that too!

Suspension is a whole different beast. I'll tackle that after my fuel situation is done

5 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Congratulations are in order.  A great find on a gently used  clean truck.  There should be many mile of happy motoring left in that truck.

Still looking for that #53?  If it is a 53 block  you'll find the number on the lower right front side of the block, below and forward of the oil filter.

Thanks! Definitely glad I held out and found a good one! Makes me smile every time I see her in the driveway! As far as the block number, I've scowered the thing, and can't find any numbers. Looked up in the front bottom corner below the VP, nuthin, opposite side of that, nuthin! So I'm hoping I got off with the mexican block! I have read though that a 53 block in an 02 are pretty rare, and most instances of 53 blocks being in 02 trucks have been because of dealership swaps and it just happened that way.

Edited by notlimah

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