Well I've made it home for the summer and it's time to start tearing this thing apart. I will begin tomorrow, but yesterday I took it to the dyno. Laid down 503 / 1215. I was very pleased with the numbers, but the knocking is getting worse to it's time to take it apart.

 

www.filterspro.com

 

I sure hope you aren't using NAPA fuel filters....

I buy them from Napa, but I believe the person gets me the baldwin 5 micron filters.

 

last thing to swap is the vp44 since you still get a knock. yes it may have been rebuilt, yes it may seem good, until its swapped you will never know. things do and can go bad for no reason.

There's no way I'm replacing the VP, expecially since the injection lines started leaking again.

 

It's been sitting for a couple days now.... I think I need to go drive it

I buy them from Napa, but I believe the person gets me the baldwin 5 micron filters.

 

What part number?

Part number - TWD PF7977

Link - http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Fuel-Water-Separators-Filters-Baldwin-Filters/_/R-TWRPF7977_0486680330

 

After some searching looks like I should start ordering off Amazon.... they are 10 bucks cheaper!

Part number - TWD PF7977

Link - http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Fuel-Water-Separators-Filters-Baldwin-Filters/_/R-TWRPF7977_0486680330

 

After some searching looks like I should start ordering off Amazon.... they are 10 bucks cheaper!

 

Buying Baldwin at NAPA is like buying BFG tires at Les Schwab. Sure they will sell them to you but since it is not their normal brand they don't get a bulk discount and the final price shows it. 

 

Buy from filterspro.com and get your oil filters too. They are quite a bit cheaper (shipping wise) when you buy 6 or so at a time. 

 

You can also get Donaldson Blue DBL7349 filters for under $12/ea plus shipping from them. The Donaldson is the best full flow oil filter available for these engines. 

More flow usually means less filtering....  The napa is 13 bucks and the Donaldson is 11.62. By the time you add in shipping it costs more than the napa.

 

You are correct on the fuel filter, it is cheaper there.

More flow usually means less filtering....  The napa is 13 bucks and the Donaldson is 11.62. By the time you add in shipping it costs more than the napa.

 

You are correct on the fuel filter, it is cheaper there.

The new nanofibre and synthetic fibre filters have changed that train of thought big time the last few years. Just like oil itself too much old school train of thought without the knowledge of what has evolved.

More flow usually means less filtering....  The napa is 13 bucks and the Donaldson is 11.62. By the time you add in shipping it costs more than the napa.

 

Only when you are talking the same style of media... and even that is not always true. 

 

The ISB oil pump is rated at 20.5 GPM at 4200 rpms and the ELF7349 is rated for 20 GPM. At normal rpms there is no limit to oil flow, even at higher than normal rpms. 

 

The 57620XE on the other hand is only rated for 12-15 GPM... so it has lower flow and lower filters and just another example of why I have so many issues with anything that says NAPA or WIX. 

 

• Wix 57620 30 @ 95%, 20 @ 50% Cellulose 12-15 GPM
• Wix 57620XE 25 @ 95%, 14 @ 50% Glass Enhanced Cellulose 12-15 GPM
• Fleetguard LF3972 30 @ 95% (35 @ 98.7% last info) Cellulose 8.72 GPM
• Fleetguard LF16035 30 @ 100% (25 @ 98.7% last info) Stratapore Synthetic 8.72 GPM
• Donaldson ELF/DBL7349 20 @ 100%, 15@ 98.7%, 7 @ 59.97% Nanofiber Synthetic 20 GPM

 

As you can see not even the OEM filters have the flow rating of the pump, but the Donaldson BDL7349 does and it also has the best filtration so it is hard to beat. Good quality synthetic media is a whole lot better than cellulose. 

 

 

 Just like oil itself too much old school train of thought without the knowledge of what has evolved.

 

I'm still sticking with CI-4+ 

Interesting.... You guys sure are good at getting me to spend money I'll take a look at it and see.

I bet the synthetic oil flows even better through that media as well.

 

I'm still on the fence with synthetic oil..... Those -10*F starts sure are rough

Have you had a chance to talk to the engine guy about synthetic yet??

Only when you are talking the same style of media... and even that is not always true.

The ISB oil pump is rated at 20.5 GPM at 4200 rpms and the ELF7349 is rated for 20 GPM. At normal rpms there is no limit to oil flow, even at higher than normal rpms.

The 57620XE on the other hand is only rated for 12-15 GPM... so it has lower flow and lower filters and just another example of why I have so many issues with anything that says NAPA or WIX.

• Wix 57620 30 @ 95%, 20 @ 50% Cellulose 12-15 GPM
• Wix 57620XE 25 @ 95%, 14 @ 50% Glass Enhanced Cellulose 12-15 GPM
• Fleetguard LF3972 30 @ 95% (35 @ 98.7% last info) Cellulose 8.72 GPM
• Fleetguard LF16035 30 @ 100% (25 @ 98.7% last info) Stratapore Synthetic 8.72 GPM
• Donaldson ELF/DBL7349 20 @ 100%, 15@ 98.7%, 7 @ 59.97% Nanofiber Synthetic 20 GPM

As you can see not even the OEM filters have the flow rating of the pump, but the Donaldson BDL7349 does and it also has the best filtration so it is hard to beat. Good quality synthetic media is a whole lot better than cellulose.

I'm still sticking with CI-4+

Can you please explain what 20@100% means. Thank you

It is the micron rating. So 100% of particles 20µ (micron) and larger are caught by the filter. 

 

An absolute rating is at 98.7%. A nominal rating is anything less than 98.7% but generally 50%. 

 

Basically you want the smallest particle size at the highest percentage, which is why the Donaldson ELF7349 is the best at 20µ @ 100% and 15µ @ 98.7%. 

Have you had a chance to talk to the engine guy about synthetic yet??

Not yet, hopefully tomorrow. 

 

Well I got out tonight and changed the gasket between the timing case and vacuum pump. I also changed the seal between the vacuum pump and PS pump. Then I forgot to put the oil supply for the vacuum pump back on and pumped out 2.5 quarts of oil   That was dumb but I got the mess cleaned up. I then took the intake horn and injection lines off. I cleaned them the same way I did last time, just much better this time. After doing that #1 and #2 still wanted to leak. I spent about an hour getting those two sealed up. I let the engine run for 10 min or so with me revving it up and down (didn't want constant rpm on the new motor or I would have used high idle) Then shut it off and waited another 10 min. There were no leaks and the engine isn't knocking like it was. I'm MUCH happier now 

I took it out for a drive after that. Man having the A/C back is NICE! I washed up the front end as best I could for the time being, but I'll have to do some more washing tomorrow with the big power washer. I really like it, but you have to be careful or it'll peel paint. 4,300 psi...

I got a video going from 15 or so mph up to 100mph with the smarty still on level one. EGTs topped out at 1175. Hopefully I'll get it uploaded soon!

Sorry the video is sideways. The tst is NOT on. You can hear my brother ask if I kicked it on. I went all the way to 3200rpm on all shifts. You can see it lets out a puff of smoke in 3rd, then clears up for the rest of the run.

It's nice being able to shift fast again without grinding!

I buy them from Napa, but I believe the person gets me the baldwin 5 micron filters.

 

There's no way I'm replacing the VP, expecially since the injection lines started leaking again.

 

It's been sitting for a couple days now.... I think I need to go drive it

THE HP FUEL LINES LEAKING IS CAUSING YOUR FUEL KNOCK, IMHO,   I don't think i would be replacing The VP Pump for a fuel Knock with 2-3 HP lines leaking.

Little bit of an update.

I put a screen over the condensor / intercooler / radiator. It'll keep the bugs and rocks from getting wedged in the fins. I'll post up some pics of it eventually.

I've done a decent amount of driving with it. Around 850 miles or to total and everything seems to be working well!

Toninght and tomorrow I have a 300 mile or so round trip with the gooseneck stock trailer so that should help finish seating everything in. It won't be super heavy, but wandering through the mountains should do it some good.

Good to hear things are going well.

Thanks Nick.

 

Here are pics of the screen. It's just window or sliding door screen from home depot. My dad's 12v has had it on it since new and the whole front still looks new! Hopefully I can keep this condenser that way!

 

 

 

Got all packed up, checked every fluid and I'm ready to head out!

Very nice. 

Thanks Nick.

 

Here are pics of the screen. It's just window or sliding door screen from home depot. My dad's 12v has had it on it since new and the whole front still looks new! Hopefully I can keep this condenser that way!

 

 

 

Got all packed up, checked every fluid and I'm ready to head out!

 

 

I know you got the screen cloth. But if that was aluminum screen like what I had I would not suggest putting against the coolers. It will rub holes in the A/C for sure and create leaks. If you using any metal screen put it to the grill not the coolers.