Well I've made it home for the summer and it's time to start tearing this thing apart. I will begin tomorrow, but yesterday I took it to the dyno. Laid down 503 / 1215. I was very pleased with the numbers, but the knocking is getting worse to it's time to take it apart.

 

I like the older inline Isuzu diesel engines. Those thing would never die...

It is truly hard to knock a Duramax as they are very good engine, I am more of an old inline diesel guy myself, if not for that I would not be looking away from a d-max.

 Unless you start talking about LB7 injectors... Flawed design.

 

Pistons are going to be "Cummins cast marine pistons" per the machinist's words. He is going to mic everything today and order the rebuild kit. Then machining and polishing should start next week. Hopefully I get it back by next Friday.

My 3rd gen 05 CR has been a fraction the cost of my 02 24v to drive and maintain. Not nearly as many upgrades needed to keep them driving nice.

Lots heavier frame, tighter body with less creaks and groans, heavier drive train, interior is a wash. Ease of maintenance I think is easier too. Less quirks overall. As far as the 5.9 overhaul they all would be a wash, the new 6.7 would be higher and labor would be more as well due to the extra emissions equipment and such.

I appreciate what you are saying. I am way off on this. I am trying to get away from CR because of the costs of parts and repairs. Looks like it all adds up regardless of the year, make, and model. TFaoro has presented a great post...lots of questions and good answers for everyone to read. Can't wait to see how the assembly turns out.

     

 

Ohh... ahhh...

Looks like my fencing post tamper.

Looks like my fencing post tamper.

$600 tamper

Looks like my fencing post tamper.

 

 

$600 tamper

 

 

Damn... That one expensive fence post tamper... I bet you could get Ford or Chevy cam for that job.

 

Damn... That one expensive fence post tamper... I bet you could get Ford or Chevy cam for that job.

But the spooooool 

 

Ok, on order tomorrow: Springs, pushrods, tappets, damper, studs, oil cooler, oil pump, rod bolts, thermostat, and a front seal with a wear sleeve (May talk to machine shop but doubt they ordered one with a sleeve.)

 

Now here's where I'm not sure. Do I take out the plastic piston cooling jets and replace them with billet ones fore reassurance, or say the heck with them and leave them in? What do you guys say?

Did you have any broken piston coolers?

Did you have any broken piston coolers?

No, they all looked okay. I'm just wondering if they are cheap insurance.

$6 for a complete set, they are retained in by the top bearings. cheap insurance get new from cummins and be good.

I've been told by many that they aren't necessary and I'm just worried about nothing... I'm not so sure. If I put new ones in they are going to be billet aluminum, not plastic.

 

HVAC box is pretty much finished up. I just have to drop the new heater core in it with some foam and stuff it back into the truck.

 

Picked this up. Can anyone guess what it is?

 

That's a coolant bye pass that goes on the backside of the block. I thought that was only an issue with the 3rd gen trucks...

That's for adjusting the timing on the flux capacitor.

That's a coolant bye pass that goes on the backside of the block. I thought that was only an issue with the 3rd gen trucks...

 

I don't see how it would only be a 3rd gen issue when it's a issue based on pressure from rpms of the water pump. It is probably more prevalent in the HPCR or P7100 world due to the rpms capable but still an issue based on rpms/power and not generation, IMHO.

 

That being said I think one of the biggest issues is people romping on it before everything is warm and open.  

That's a coolant bye pass that goes on the backside of the block. I thought that was only an issue with the 3rd gen trucks...

 

For also the 2nd gen trucks too. It needed so when owner forgets to change coolant and it rots out the rear plug that can bolt that on to resolve the issue. But if you change coolant and flush the block out on a regular basis there is no need for such a device.

Everyone is right! I bought it because I plan to do a coolant bypass in the future. The TST will be sent in and I should be able to turn 4k+ RPM when the shop is done with it. It's just another safety feature when making more HP with more RPMs!

It also helps with added coolant flow in the rear of the block that is prone to running hotter.

For also the 2nd gen trucks too. It needed so when owner forgets to change coolant and it rots out the rear plug that can bolt that on to resolve the issue. But if you change coolant and flush the block out on a regular basis there is no need for such a device.

 

Even with good/clean coolant and proper maintenance the pressure at the back of the block can be excessive at 4K rpms.