Leaderboard

one of 2 ways, use a coil spring compressor or unhook the front stabilizer links so the axle will droop to get them in and out. Done it both ways and either way works. Nothing technical about it. Got to pull the shocks out of the center first.

You won't find me plumbing fuel into my cab, not for the fire scare but have you ever tried to clean the diesel smell out of clothing, carpet, or say behind a dash where you can't get a wipe and degreaser?I have an electrical and will always run electrical for oil and fuel.

Only time your looking down the road of a mechanical failure is typically the P0216 code where the advancement cam is stuck in full retard. But P0215, P0251, P0252, P0253, P0254, P1688, P1689 are all electronic failures... But here is the $150,000.00 test bench for calibrating the VP44...

There has been such a huge scare about fuel being in the cab for years now and how you need to use a isolator... Diesel fuel needs to be heated to at least 150*F before it will ignite with open flame. The needle valve is a perfect choice for fuel hammer (water hammer) reduction. Because it allows you to reduce the pulse by closing till you get a smooth swing of the needle. Then if you do have a leak you can just shut the needle valve off. With a snubber it will keep the fuel hammer from occuring but now you can't turn off the fuel is there is a leak.

Yes, that is true. If using the snubber, make sure that you have at least a 90* bend in it. This way the impulses from the VP are absorbed. With the needle valve, you open it just enough to get the gauge to move and show the pressure.

The needle valve is from NAPA, part number WH6820. If you use a snubber, a grease gun hose will work.

Went out this morning so I could get the truck all nice and warm before I pulled the trailer today and the GFI kept tripping. I ohmed out the connections and everything was fine so I said the hell with it, stuck it in a regular outlet and heard a bzzzzzzzrrrrrrrrrrt. Pulled it out of the outlet and it looked fine. Traced it back to truck which smelled like burnt rubber but couldn't find anything burnt, maybe it just didn't look burnt enough. The elements were at the right ohms and everything so I don't see how they shorted unless it was the ground shorting to the hot or something. Anyhow, I probably need a new one and new cord. Probably this heater http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3975628 And this cord http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HEATER_CABLE_FL Hmm, that was cheaper than I thought it would be. I have heard rumors floating around that I can use an 8.3 block heater, is that true? I really just want something other than the 750, was thinking a 1000W one would be nice.

I run Amsoil bypass filters on both my pickups, my 02 has an amsoil dual remote oil filter head and I run an amsoil full flow on it also. My 05 I run only fleetgaurd filters fuel and oil. My TDI Jetta gets all Hastings filters.