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Actually the ECM is connected to the driver side ground terminal... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm

Sorry i dont have a link to the grounds.The ecm it self is grounded to the engine.So you could remove it and take sand paper or a wire brush to the 3 contact points .Under the ecm the harness has one.infront of the driver side battery about 6 of them come together.To the right of the pcm has one on the firewall.On the firewall in front of the abs has one.I know i am forgetting a bunch.

Ummm... Save some money... Just do a compression test (not a blow by) and see where your at before ripping apart a perfectly good engine. Most of these trucks will travel a long ways past 500K milestone before needing any kind of work. But the CR engine are known for serious problems with leaking injectors that cause engines to fail as early as 100K miles if not dealt with. So if you pull the injectors have the pop tested and do a compression test you save huge amount of money. You may want to talk these people first... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/milestone/milestones.htm These guys never had a overhaul yet...

Links to diagnostics...

So glad you got it running. That's really good news. Charge the batteries up fully. Check them to see they're good... after 2 years they're likely junk. There are minute parasitic loads on most modern vehicles... but a vehicle left to sit with the batteries connected will have them drained to nothing & beyond. A bad battery will cause all kinds of problems. Dual batteries should be replaced as pairs. Clean & repair the battery cables. Then start checking the other wiring connections listed. These computerized trucks are very sesitive to electical faults. Wire brushing connections is free.

If you find someone with a midtronics or similar tester that will tell you state of health some auto parts stores or good garages have them it will tell you what % health your battery is

I guess after reading the post i am confused.What do you mean pressured up the tank?If it was me.I would put at least 10 gal of fuel in it.Then i would bump the starter and open the lines at the injection pump.I would do that until fuel reached the injection pump and gushes out.Then i would close them. Open all 6 at the injectors,i say all six because of the 2 years.Then crank the starter for 10 sec.Check for fuel at the injectors,If none, do it again and so on until fuel gets to the injectors.If you do this and you try to start it ten times or so and no fuel gets to the injectors you have a lift pump problem or a rotted line that is sucking air.If you do get fuel at some of the lines at the injectors close them off and keep going. edit,Your post says "someone" gave the kid the truck.I bet it had a problem the owner couldnt figure out.Or didn't want to deal with.The steel fitting on top of the tank could be rusted and sucking air.The return line on back of the head could be sucking air.The lift pump could be on it's way out.The injection pump could be shot.I would also check the water in fuel lever.Open it and see.Check the fuel filter as well.

For this body style truck, that trick works only on 2000 thru 2002. Even then some have issues occasionally. --- Update to the previous post... When you cracked the #1,3, and 4 injector lines, did you turn over the engine until you got a good fuel spray at each injector coupling? Seems odd that it would not start or at least attempt to unless perhaps the injectors are gummed up and not working at all which I think would be very improbably for all 6 to do this.

any trouble codes? turn key from off to on 3 times leaving it on on the third time and write down all the P-codes it spits out on the mileage display