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Hey guys, I havent posted in quite some time and don't regularly (sorry) but I maybe able to shed some light on some of the questions that have come up.This swap is viewed by some as good and some as bad, I think that if your after huge power gains and have heard that it will provide that, you might want to consider a single more suited for the precieved goal or go to twins if you can afford it.Most of the negatives that I have heard of are related to TURBO issues, ie...collar sticks with heavy soot build up so if your running larger injectors that don't atomize as well or you consistanly roll coal, you will need to consider this. Also people have experienced snaped shafts with hard pushing of the turbo and or quick snap or letting off...mostly with "high HP" mods...Also people with stock motors have said that while spool up is like a HY without some fueling it is pointless...no drop in egts, no power gains either on a dyno or seat of the pants. Like was mentioned, I feel that keeping the electronic's incorporated is better than not...but that brings us to another issue...INSTALL.There are at this time no other options that I am aware of other than Fleece...which I purchased (I guess now would be the time I say I have EVERYTHING needed to install, I just have not put it together) AH is correct (althougt it is VGT not VNT, V Geometry T not V Nozzel T) they (fleece) access through the MAP to gather throttle position, boost, load etc etc...and he is correct they do have access to 0-100% sweep of the collar...the factory preset from fleece is 95% of max exhaust brake closure which is where they felt it was best suited for our trucks...you can access the tables via usb and an excel spread sheet but you must contact them in order to do so (most likely to explain why, as they don't need warrenty claims based upon opperator error) AH is also correct in that you have access to on the fly adjustment up to 20% (thats the number you were forgeting) for loading or not..ie if you wanted to build boost sooner increase it or if you want to drop boost lower it.OK off track...back to install...this is where it can get troublesome and where I have or had hit my snag...If you have a 4wd your gonna have decisions to make...Our trucks can take advantage of the 6.7 exhaust manifold which is nice because it lowers the turbo and electronic actuater but the problem is our heat exhanger sits right there so that blocks it...a Manual will not have the heat exchanger so if you have a manual your golden..the preferd method is get the turbo with exhaust manifold and DP it will all fit you just need EGR block off's which can be had anywhere or you can make them. If you have a 4wd...boy oh boy...you can either remove your heat exchanger and get a different one (expensive, a lot of plumbing) or you can like me...keep your 24v manifold in place and either plug and re-tap the case exhaust housing of the VGT to match the T3 bolt pattern, Purchase a T4i to T3 adapter (T4i also have heard it as WGMT or WGMT works not sure) In either case, you will need a few other things, like a HX40 down pipe becasue you cant use the 6.7 anymore (or any other 4") you will need new boots and reducers for the inter-cooling, you can use the factory oil feed, and you take advantage of the cooling through the heater core lines right there (you will need to purchase more HC line 5/8")Also and for the big finish...if your using the 24v manifold and you want to use the electronics to contoll the EB function you are gonna be to close to the shock tower for it all to fit..so your gonna need to mod that as well...most of the guys are (I am too) slightly clocking the exhaust housing (no more than 15* off verticle for oil draining) and clocking the compressor housing to line up the intercooler piping but the actuator housing is still to close so we are removing the shock tower and building a flat plate drilled to the 3 bolt pattern with a center hole for a new shorter shock...or like me (possibily) removing the passenger side shock all together, I have a dual shock due to my lift and with the outer 2nd shock I will be able to retain proper travel even without an inner shock. SO....CLEAR AS MUD right....All in all, if your after a HIGH HP turbo out of this I suggest spending an extra 200 dollars and do it right with a good single....becasue right now i am into this turbo, boots, reducers, AN fittings, Fleece controller, Down pipe, Exhaust Manifold Adapter, Gaskets (new T3 and T4i), heater core line about 800...and I most likely have another 100-200 in fab work to go...Shock tower mod needs to be finished and I may purchase a shorter shock (thats the extra 200)If your after a Good turbo that will produce a proven 450 HP truck with a box and injectors...plus a EB to help with towing, and want it for under a grand...this might work.Thats what I am after...I know and went into this knowing I am not gonna reach 600 hp, all I wanted was a good turbo that produced a EB...I couldnt have gotten an EB for under a grand, and as it stands I am getting a better turbo than the HX I have now....Any Qestions please feel free...I will since posting this check in on it....I am not a mechanic, and have little knowledge of turbos, but I do RESEARCH something before I step in it.Jake

you ought to like the 20. when you are laying under something and trying to pump a 3 ton it just aint easy. it will take a few more strokes but the differance in effort is fantastic. i bought mine at northern tool all made in china. hard to get around it.

Just for the sake of information value... Russ your trailer is... 28WTB TT Transport by Tahoe http://www.tahoe-rv.com/TahoeTransport-specs.htm [TABLE=width: 50%, align: center] [TR] [TD]GVWR[/TD] [TD]12,500#[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]CCC[/TD] [TD]3,480#[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Hitch Weight[/TD] [TD]1,140#[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Fresh Water [/TD] [TD]100 Galons[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Grey Water[/TD] [TD]45 Gallons[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Black Water[/TD] [TD]45 Gallons[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

i finally broke down and bought a 12 ton awhile back. all though it doesnot lift as far with each pump it is much easier to use under any vehicle. it was half price when i bought it. i should have bought 2.

I use a 6 ton bottle jack on my 4 ton 5er. I keep the rear stabilizers up. Put the jack under the axle just behind the wheel I want up. I've done 1 axle flat trailers to 3 axle horse trailers that way.

The 6,000 lb jack won't lift one wheel?? How big is the toy hauler and is it full of toys and water? Is the Jack stalling out of pushing into the ground? Something just dosn't seem right.

Yep on what Mike he said since its parked. I never go anywhere without a wheel change ramp, just a simple ramp you set in front of one tire as Mike described drive up on it and the other axle hangs free, there is not always enough quality boards around to "Safely" change a tire on the road, its a huge time saver as well rather than having to mess with jacks.

I would raise the stabilizers again just leave the tongue jack down... Because the trailer is trying to lean to one side a bit and the stabilizers are most likely hanging you up... Or hitch up the trailer to the Dodge and drive the front or rear axle up on a block of wood and the other axle should hang free.