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The cup holder from Geno's worked great ....... no complaints! But, this console from a 2011 Dodge works better. Easy to install. The back two mounting holes match up, just drill into the mounting frame for the front two. Sits a little lower than the original, has a little less room, but opens easier and has the electrical 'ports' ..... and a lower compartment below the seat cushion. And again ...... because of the lack of spilled coffee, I'm getting younger, have untold wealth, and never get flat tires!

I know where you're coming from John. If it doesn't work, I'm out the cost of a filter and $7 for a PTO cover. But that's a null factor cause this is in the name of science!!! The inlet is above the filter so hopefully nothing makes its way back out. I was originally going to ditch this idea and go straight to the pump setup, but I figured that if fuller makes something that works on the same principles, then they are either catering to the idiots like myself, or it might actually work. I understand that the filter is of a different design, so maybe that's the secret ingredient. Besides, this matches the rest of my illogical mods. I was looking for a slightly larger micron rating, but the only other one I could find was a 57490 which is 40 micron and it's physically a bit smaller than the 51410 which is 21 micron. This is looking only at WIX filters without a drain-back valve. It will be a long while before I get any kind of test results, but regardless of what they are, I'll let you know how it goes.

Sad to say I lost all my stock u-joints way back at about 60-80k miles. Mine were all dried out and ground up. Been running grease-able u-joints and just grease them up every oil change. I contribute my early failure to the fact of all the offroad driving, dirt and dust, then flip side in the winter time all the water and mud. The little rubber seals are pretty weak for keeping debris and water out. So every 7-8k miles pushing fresh grease in forces out debris and water. Where most of you are on the pavement and easy to get those kind of miles out of the u-joints.

Spent all day working on the camper and it is buttoned up with new roof wood and a new canvas. Started with If anyone needs a canvas for a pop-up camper give bear Creek canvas a call. Very happy with the quality and fit of the canvas.

Ah, Dodge Cupholders. There are so many classic designs. Remember the old 1994-7 dual action one designed to either flip a mountain dew onto your right inner thigh and knee or bounce it vertically so it spills all down your radio and fills the CD slot with goo? How about the 98-02 model that looks super cool, fits up into the dash, but squeaks... creaks... and you only put one drink into because it is made of paper mache? I decided that I had enough. I went to Genos and ordered the center console cupholder I've always wanted. Let me break it down for you. This cupholder CHANGED MY LIFE! I am not sure what this says about me, my personal standards, or quality of life, but it is an amazing experience. This one piece of blown plastic has fixed one of the major design flaws on my truck. It really is the little things that really make a difference sometimes. I can overlook the faded paint, the hail damage, the shattered dash, and lack of 4 doors, because I now have a cupholder that works.

You be surprised how many time I've put together u-joint and in inadvertently kick a roller bearing to the bottom and then end up crushing the bearing in the cap. Makes for a tight u-joint. At least a rear shaft is easy to do. The front shaft with the cardigan joint is a big PITA to deal with. Even on the 96 I managed to bend one of the yoke ears and screw up the centering of the joint. Don't feel bad...

Nothing wrong with having a professional drive-line shop look over the drive-line and verify its straight and balanced.

So this has kinda turned into a complete fail for me. Today driving the truck around something doesn't feel right. The shaking I was talking about before isn't as bad, but there are others at different speeds. So I pretty much decided to take the shaft back out and get it balanced. Well I got under there an found one of the retaining rings barely still in place. Some of the joints also tightened up on me again and don't move as freely(I spent a lot of time trying to get those clips in and then having to bang on the yoke trying to get the joint to loosen up). Anyway the shaft is now in the back of my civic (thank goodness it's a two piece) to go to the shop tomorrow. I figured I'll get them to look at it and possibly even re replace all the joints . Thankfully they aren't too expensive. Then I can also get their opinion on the one joint that was kinda loose and have it balanced. Unfortunately this just is not as simple as press the old one out and press the new one in

Any ecm hardware wise will work ,but it will have to be flashed. I have heard that smarty can do that

No. There is about 55 different version of software out for each year. So you can't just grab any old ECM you'll need to reflash it no matter what. So if you did buy a used ECM from someone you would have to set an appointment with a Dodge Dealer so you can have it reflashed. To reflash an ECM you'll need to install it once you get to the dealer.

Since you are using a pressure filter in a non-pressurized application I would get something in the 20-30 range, basically a cheap OEM filter and not any of the higher shelf stuff.

Today was a different run of a day. I had to book to McCall to pick up a lift pump for a local gent to get his truck running again. So I left fairly early this morning the outside temperature was 40*F going out across New Meadows flats. The transmission only barely rose to 120*F on Goose Creek grade then once I was on open road again I kicked up my speed and watch the temperature fade back to below 100*F. Then once I got into town again it rose up to barely 120*F again. Hovered like that for all my travel through town at 25 MPH. Now got what I needed and head back to home for a quick stop to drop off some stuff. The whole way back the temperature would fall back below 100*F again still cold out barely 45*F heading home. Stopped at home drop off the stuff and got moving on to the job in Riggins. Now heading down canyon the temperature started to rise outside to 60*F. Now the transmission temperature inch up off the 100*F to 105*F that's it. I've still been running cruise control at posted speed limits. So the only time I seen it rise again was hitting the city limits of Riggins at 25 MPH it climbed to 120*F. So I worked on my job about 45 minutes or so. Then packed up and got fuel in town and headed home. By this time the wind was picking up and temperature was maxed out at 65*F out side. So the climb back home the transmission temperature barely made 110*F. I traveled a total of 100 miles and never seen much for transmission temperature just a max of 120*F. I will say that so far I'm not even thinking of fast coolers because of how low the temperature are staying for just the truck. Also I took note of my average loads at 65 MPH... Flat ground running at 65 MPH I'm only producing 40-50 HP and 110-150 Ft/Lbs of torque at the flywheel to keep me going at 65 MPH on flat ground very low drag I would say. Yes the MPG fooler was on this morning.

When I ran 50wt in the NV4500, I never did any real testing, but I do believe the 50wt ran considerably cooler than the syntorq that's currently in it. I'm sure you know this, but there are two parts to a NV4500, the gears, and the synchronizers. A good fluid will keep them both happy. I'm curious what your experiences will be, so keep us updated!

They matched up for me.

I replaced the outer wood pieces the roof itself was good enough to leave. Reused the metal for the roof since it was in good shape. Still 2 piece. Roof.

All I can say about rebuilders is find a company that will give a good warranty and good turn around time for both servicing and warranty calls.

Lost prime... For sure your hearing the high rev of the rotor and then the bouncing is the fuel coming and it loads the pump back up. Eric at Vulcan Performance sells all the Parker Push Lock Fittings and JIC fittings. So if it was me I would grease the suction line fitting and reassemble and see if the problem goes away if so like I said its time to ditch the Quick Connect fittings and move back to push lock fittings.

My differential heats up way before the transmission does. Keep up the updates Mike. Good info.

Alright the code is ready for testing. Here is a snippet to show my train of thought. if ( BufferAdjust >= 2){ if(LastOutTPS > InputCorrected + 13 || LastOutTPS < InputCorrected - 125){ // 13 is aprrox %5 TPS change for increasing TPS, 125 is about %50 TPS change for anti bark. if(BufferCount > BufferAdjust){ BufferCount = 0; if(LastOutTPS < InputCorrected){ APPSOutput = LastOutTPS + 1; }else { APPSOutput = LastOutTPS - 1; } }else {BufferCount++;} }else {APPSOutput = InputCorrected ; } }else {APPSOutput = InputCorrected ; } Pretty much it will adjust TPS input once every defined period. you can adjust that period ( different section of code) from 0 to 2 seconds. If you adjust the period down to 0 then it skips the above code. If it the code runs it will increase or decrease TPS input by 1 until the TPS that was commanded was reached. Pretty much the TPS from the arduino should follow the requested TPS input from the apps as slow or fast as it configured via the Period defined.

Use the part number lookup tool to see if they are the same part number. Go to articles > 2nd gen late> the part number lookup > then select a year.

Backpressure is a variable only for naturally aspirated engines because of the reliance on intake velocity, vacuum, and scavenging in order to best the combustion chamber efficiency. Charged engines dont run under those same parameters and require zero resistance expelling exhaust as all entering intake air is crammed in. That said, in case someone asks why not run no exhaust..... Dont mistake the need for header/manifold tuning which maintains optimal exhaust valve temperatures..... Therefore on a charged engine the more free flowing the exhaust, the better. But whats ample?..... Well that depends on the setup. Stock exhaust mufflers just sucks but if its straight piped or has a sizeable aftermarket straight through muffler then it works. But a 4" system will prove to be the best intermediate exhaust and more than enough volume until power numbers reach well over 500 HP.

Got a manual trans with the Genos cup holder. Fits well. Also installed a dual USB port. o

I can see putting a sight glass plug in for the axles or transmission. As for the transfer case it might be hard to get extra fluid in to see it in the sight glass. Little knowledge on sight glasses. Like old Honda motorcycles had them back in the day instead of a dip stick. Now the Honda motorcycle where horrid because about every year or two you had to pull the clutch cover and using a q-tip clean the glass so you could see the oil level. Yamaha got smart and used a wiper that you spun using a screwdriver to clean the glass. So consider the fact that crud will cloud the sight lass over time. Just like pulling the differential cover and everything has coating of the black that just wipes off.

I liked the old 80 cushions, but she didn't like them so we compromised..... I would let her do the cushions if she leaves the blinds the same color, she asked if she could sew on new backing and I said ok. I think we are going to head up to 11 mile this weekend and do some camping and ice fishing. Can't wait to be able to come in off the lake, start the heater and relay / play some cards / drink coffee without having to try and start a fire and manage it. Don't get me wrong, I am still going to start a fire and manage it, but I don't NEED to hahahaha.

Well I am happy to report that I have successfully converted the old 6 AMP 120v-->12v dc to a 26 amp 120v-->12v dc using a server power supply that I had at the office. ( images are of the desktop PSU that I tested with prior) Very simple to do, wire up the PSU to turn on when power is applied, use a switch to ground the green wire on the PSU. then figure out what colors are 12v on your PSU. Cut all the leads and cap them to ensure no shorts. then run the 12v output from the PSU into the switch system of the old controller. Do the same with the ground from the PSU. And thats it. You now have a VERY cheap, yet reliable,stable power converter for your RV. Typical desktop PSU's range from 10amp to 25 amp and more depending on price. Converter removed. Simple 2 wire input (neutral and hot) u I have steady 12v rather than the 15-17v I had before. Operation is still the same from the panel and everything looks OEM from the outside. Still have the separation between the battery and 120v system so the battery will not be charged while plugged into 120v, but that is not really an issue for me. I can now runt he radio full bore and not have the lights dim. It's the little things I also wired in the 12v Fridge to the converter side also. It used to be setup where it would only get power if you where connected through the battery as the fridge takes 10amps to run on 12v, and the old converter would only do 6 amp. Since I now have the extra amps I ran some heavy gauge wire to the fridge from the converter with a fuse. I doubt I will ever use the 120v -->12v ---> fridge setup, but it is good to know I can. I effective turned a 2 way fridge ( LP / 12v) into a semi 3 way fridge. Should also point out jen has recovered all of the cushions

I don't drink and drive...