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Gawd, I remember those days, When I was a teen I had a 68 shortbed Stepside had a built 350 and I took out the truck 4 speed and put in a Muncie m22 rock crusher, out of a Chevelle , ( that was just the beginning of a bad relationship with local law enforcement) I had the short hurst shifter out of the floorboard the girls used to get embarrassed when I’d reach down and put my arm through their legs, when in actuality I was just reaching down to grab another gear

Just bought some new tires installed this morning, on my new rims I had bought awhile back. I milked my old bald BFGs tell the fell apart and spit and leaked . I almost got stranded with a flat , so time for new tires already Picture is in 107 degrees temp, Its hot today

The stock ECM timing and fueling map leaves much to be desired. Running larger injectors will decrease duration, but they won't give much more for flow. But having built a bunch of towing rigs over time I have yet to find a larger injector that fixing the EGT's. The higher EGT's tells me that the timing is too retarded across the board. When towing you need a programmer to get back some of your lost timing that you loose with the larger injectors. Its easy to advance the timing and duration with larger injectors, but the stock timing leaves much to be desired. EDIT: Larger Injectors will still flow the same amount of fuel as meter by the VP-44. Without a programmer you can't compensate for the added fueling. Usually these injectors are also popped lower to allow for more flow, and sooner poop off. This just exacerbates the poor map. EDIT: It looks like Mike already answered it in a better way then I could.

Basically, there are 4 ways of killing a VP44... Fuel pressure - Optimal is 14 to 20 PSI of fuel pressure at all times. Filtration - Double stacking filters like AirDog 150 and the stock filter is optimal. AC Noise - Should replace your alternator (or diodes) in you have over 50mV AC then consider doing the W-T ground mod. Lubricity - Bosch states that fuels should be 460 HFFR or less. US fuels are already 520 HFRR or higher at times.

Be careful some of these can be just as dry as the fuel itself. No to mention raising the cetane and reducing BTU's. After clearing 243k miles on my last VP44 with just 2 cycle oil I seriously doubt any other product can do as well at lubrication. As you can see this timing piston was galled up badly. I had to heat the pump body with propane torch to just remove it. The timing piston movement are based on fuel pressure and lubricity. VP44 is having timing piston issues. This is just about what mine was doing when it failed at 243k miles. Mine was horrid in the failure being it was in full advancement with heavy knocking and max speed of 30 MPH then when it let go it would run fine for at least about a mile then the timing piston would stick again. Power would drop pulling my max road speed down to 30 MPH with heavy knocking. When I got home you could smell the hot blow by from the excessive timing. Still got me home 15 miles away though.

I have found that in more then one case the blue lock bars that go to the isolator bolts need to be loosened as well. Here's my tightening sequence and I've not had anything off when I follow it. 1. Head side of the lines where they go into the crossover tubes. 2. VP side of lines 3. Injector top brackets (that hold the injectors down. 4 blue lock bars 5. Intake plenum bolts More often then not those blue lock bars and the intake bolts that they go to will not sit in the same position. And you can get a miss from not adjusting then after you turn the lines down. Everyone need to be snug.

Aftermarket pump by Holley. Same exact one with same pressures a friend of mine has been running on his 02 for three years since I have known him, he has basically exact same truck I have he ran 1/2 " line same pump and same pressure as mine his has been 3 years and never missed a beat. I might see if I can lower the pressure some it has two adjustment screws on the regulator.

I hope all is well after the hospital stay. It's good to hear you have the truck running tip top again with out a lot of cost. One thing though is that the fuel pressure is way to high. You want to get that pressure down to about 20psi at idle and no lower than 14 at WTO.

Okay all sorry for the late reply I have been in hospital and havent had time to post. Just wanted everybody to know the outcome. Losing prime was the Copper washers bad on fuel inlet and return at VP-44, I replaced these no more losing prime. The loss of power was the MAP sensor (I learned that on a diesel this is same as the boost sensor) New sensor was over $200 at parts store so before replacing I removed the sensor and used an entire can of map sensor cleaner on it (be careful not to damage the little probe in end) cleaned all the carbon buildup from sensor replaced it and it worked beautifully. Removed the factory lift pump from side of engine and replaced with aftermarket pump mounted to frame rail between tank and filter housing, also bought and installed filter and filter housing between tank and new pump (you can never have too much filtration) ran new fuel line from tank to factory filter housing and installed new pressure gauge in cab. New pump runs 40psi at idle and around 25 at WOT. Truck runs like a new one so far no problems. Thanks to everyone for the advice and suggestions.

Happen to be walking by the truck parked in the shop and noticed a small puddle of green coolant. It where its at which is strange. Back at the bellhousing. I know the only freeze plug back there is the block freeze plug but as far as I can see right now there is no coolant coming from that freeze plug but I fear the worst.... Possible head gasket.