Mopar1973Man

I would hope so for $713 radiator... I can buy 5 OE radiators at $140 a piece and most likely go even farther... I've got 436k miles on my truck and only had to buy 1 radiator in the total of 19 years. Next radiator will be somewhere around 600k miles roughly and still only be $280 dollar spent on just radiators.

You'll end up rewiring everything most likely. Everything goes to the front door speakers being the amp is mounted to the speakers. So the rear door panels, and front tweeters are wired into the amps on the speakers IIRC.

Again larger tires cost fuel, rotational mass, rolling resistance, and high EGT's. Your now enjoying the efficiency I normally enjoy now. Yup. Oversized tires tend to alter the geometry of the front axle. Wandering typically stops when you ditch the wider tires. If you can crimp off the waste gate line temporarily and test again and see if you can pass that boost point. If not you might need to retard timing (-1 degree from all max timings) to add boost pressure back. Might add a bit more fuel to the wire tap from 1200 maybe try 1700 and see if the boost climbs more.

Yup hes got this on the hood... @Sycostang67 hows the new ratio working now compared to the old 3.38:1?

Truly sad no one cares enough to handle freight properly. I've seen a FedEx driver start dropping kicking computer part boxes off his truck into my yard. I told him to load it back up and return to sender. Then called FedEx and reported him. Then called my computer part supplier and had new parts sent. Then called my customer and explained the delays in building there new computer. Yeah just one bad freight handler and it had huge impacts all the way around.

Just seems extremely expensive for full aluminum radiator.

Same here. Personally I wouldn't spend big money on a full aluminum Mishimoto radiator. Just quick look your spending way too much on name brand. I just popped over to RockAuto and its 137 USD for a OE Radiator. Then if I wanted full aluminum radiator there is one on RockAuto for 311 USD. Way less the Mishimoto Radiator I seen priced as high as 700 USD.

Every time someone looks at another fuel you have to remember... Any fuel will create CO2 and CO emissions. Fuels with the least amount of emissions will most likely be lower in BTU content. Can't get lower emissions with a high BTU fuel. Just look at the ethanol fuel. Its just a mere 85,000 BTUs per gallon vs 120,000 BTU's per gallon for unleaded gasoline. Just like the more BioFuel you add to diesel it reduces the BTU content as well. Personally I say ditch the renewable fuels and biofuel go back to petroleum fuels and make the engine more efficient in design. Here is BTU content for each fuel...

Even from ASTM testing labs...

Like myself I never use... Cetane boosters - Why? local fuel can be as high as 45 to 53 cetane already. Adding more is going to reduce BTU's. Cold Flow Improvers - Why? Local fuels already up the amount Xylene (Pour Point Depressant) as high as 10% to 15%. Adding more just wipes out the lubricity. The only thing that is not improved and does not meet Bosch standards is lubricity. REMEMBER !!! US Diesel Fuel is ~520 HFRR. UK fuel is ~460 HFRR. I don't have to say anything here being Bosch did all the HFRR testing for us all and then shown the damage by the low lubricity that US diesel fuel has. Even shows in the comment "Worst Case US Lubricity" This isn't made up or snake oil it is a real problem.

Not valid. Turn off the Quadzilla when free revving. Quadzilla is not design for free revving and the timing is way off so it could cause popping or missing. Adjustable fuel pressure or spring and check ball style? Adjustable has issues with stable pressures. You might have to run the adjustment way out and back in this help with @JAG1 pressure issues on his truck a few years back. Also where is your pressure sensor at? If its hooked up to the fuel supply directly you could be damaging the sensor with water hammer pulses. Any electric or mechanical gauge should be hook up like... Tap point -> needle valve/snubber -> At least 5 feet of 1/8" tubing -> Fuel pressure sensor This allows the pulses to fade in distance of travel, it protects the fuel pressure sensor from damage and gives better accuracy of readings.

My 1996 Dodge 1500 (lil Red) was this way too 2WD was forward. Then 2002 Dodge 2500 (Beast) is the other way.

Our alternators can produce... 14.5 volts x 140 Amp DC = 2,030 watts. You would need 32.5 alternators mounted to your Cummins. Just to make enough H2 make it worth your while.

Interesting. I'm going to continue to watch your build being I'm also got Thor (2006) that I wanna build up better.

There you go turning a mistake into bonus in building a grid heater delete block.

Miss at idle is going to lean towards injectors. Quadzilla is no longer in control below 1,200 RPM. Idling is controlled by the ECM.

Currently your cruise timing is cancelled being your adding ZERO degrees.

Yes it can and has been done already. But you find out it just a big pain in the to drive. Rowing a bunch of gears just to daily drive not fun. From what I remember you got to row the first 5 gears to even get to 25 MPH. I know there was another member that done a Eaton/Fuller 6 speed and turn out good but again heavy modifications, reworking the frame, reworking the transfer case, making adapters plates, lots of custom work to get it in there.

This is why I work with real time data. Being the graph just shows what the engine reporting back. What it doesn't show what the weather is, wind speed, highway grades, speed limits, etc. Now I roll that all together and make adjustment on the fly to improve the tune. When I did it for @Sycostang67I was building on the fly and watching as he climb grades, seen if the cruise timing drops properly at the right time. Had him simulate a passing watch to see if there was a good drop of timing without much smoke, then building boost rapidly. All this can't be seen in a simple graph or data dump of the Quadzilla. Again one of the few reason I work with live data, not recorded data. Anyone could seen me a data dump but the highway / weather data is always missing...

Your on the right path. Your doing fine... The alternator lead is move to the passenger side positive. The alternator fuse is no longer used. Then the grounds are shorten up and ring terminal put on it and mounted to the gear case. I use a bit of the old cable to jump from the driver side batter negative to the the same bolt of where the grounds are.

At least to fill a fuel tank is just a few minutes and you are on your way for the next 400 to 800 miles. Electric cars takes hour(s) to recharge completely you might get 200 to 300 miles and have to do it again.

It could be worse, what if you were a offensive driver?

Yup. Got a few door stops too.

Best I can find.... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,fuel+&+air,air+intake+heater,16099

I'm not impressed with any 6 speed. Like myself I've got Thor which is my 2006 Dodge with a G56 transmission. Lots of rowing of gears. Now Beast my 2002 Dodge is only a 5 speed and way less rowing of gears. I'll admit I've got 436k on Beast and wore out plenty of gears and broke the main shaft at 3rd/4th. Just got done replacing the input shaft and the counter shaft after wiping out the input gear. Naw. We can keep the discussion open.