Mopar1973Man

You can most likely stop by harbor freight for a o-ring kit. They have good assortment of sizes. I'm going to assume without seeing the connector it's like a A/C lines you'll use a release tool to push the locking spring back to release the lines. I typically got a lot of o-rings from A/C kits. They work good in power steering and fuel systems.

Yup looks like you @Sycostang67. Being your just here no long ago. Nice meeting you.

So on boost values it's difficult to read with any OBDII live data tool. Being it not simple math. Now as for testing I would ohm test between the MAP plug and ECM plug. Should be 0 ohm no more than 5 ohms. Now with both plugs unhooked you need to test between a pin and ground to verify no shorts to ground. It should read infinite ohms. If all that checks out I would consider new MAP sensor and possibly having the ECM tested. Also I seen you have a Edge EZ it's possible the module got water in it and the circuit board will be corroded. It's also possible the boost fooler is shot. Try unplugging all that and test again.

That thing climbs rocks good.

Not mine. The group I'm working for in McCall ID this happens to be the property manager old 1977 Ford F-250 with a 400 CID. It was last driven back in 1998 and been standing he wants to bring it back to life. So one step at a time getting the engine to run. Then getting electrical sorted out. Fuel system, etc the list continues. Like right now I'm sorting out a hydraulic leak on the steering the two rams are leaking after all these years. Now I'm going to attempt to get the last one freed ( need to build a tool). Then send both rams off to Ryan at Blue Top Steering.

Well Thor yesterday started to buck once in a awhile and trip a few codes. P2509 - Power down Data Lost Error P0088 - Fuel Rail Pressure Signal Is Above Maximum Limit P0243 - Turbo Boost Wastegate Solenoid So this what I figured out. The P2509 code is triggering the P0088 when the power drop the pressure solenoid on the CP3 maxes out when the loss of power and then when the power returns it sensed but drops quick back to normal. Now I've gotta figure out the power issue for the P2509 code. As for the wastegate code I've gotta do a ohm test from the wastegate solenoid to the ECM. It a brand new wastegate solenoid I bought from DAP. So I know the solenoid isn't the issue but it going to be a wiring issue being its also random. I can reset the codes and it will remain off for a period of time them pop on again.

I'm not sure. Typically the exhaust brakes on autos only work while the torque converter is locked up. I'm not sure how much you'll get I've not had a chance to play with auto newer generation yet. Now on a manual transmission will brake to near nothing just keep downshifting.

It's true RV275s are pretty mild and could be used without any mods. But I typically suggest a minimum of +50 HP injectors being at least you can have them pop tested and flow matched.

Too advanced. Cruising timing is too high.

Ouch...

Something isn't right. Yeah if the signal line is open it will show max temp and trip the CEL.

Injector wise I would think about anything between +50 HP and +150 HP without much additional mods. Highly suggested to have a Quadzilla tuner. Now when doing custom injectors you'll get them flow matched and pop tested with tight tolerance. Like my current set are really custom, +150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010) popped at 320 bar which is +10 bar over stock or +15 bar than most general injectors custom made. This aided in the fact of my 28.04 MPG high mark. I look at it this way they already built the 1,000 HP engines. How about trying to build the 30 MPG engine that is still better power than stock? Have your cake and eat it too!

The gent I worked with we dual fed the pump through the body and normal fuel inlet. Changing the internal regulator. Boring all the feed passages open a few thousandth more including return. Then upgraded the front seal and increased fuel pressure to 30 PSI. There is quite a bit done. I think cam ring and shoes are different.

I've always been good about keeping fluids changed and checked. Yeah amount of power is part of longevity. Just like I asked Jason about that he stated the high power put more stress on the gears. He's got no problem with the 50 weight transmission fluid being is GL-4 and good for viscosity. Yeah the power does play a role. 1. Broke the main shaft. (Edge Comp & +75 HP injectors) 2. Wore the hard facing out of 5th broke the gear. 3. Two sets of defective brass synchro. One set was 3nd gear and the other set was 4th gear. 4. Wore the hard facing out of the input gear and broke. What I never had a problem with. 1. Never had a 5th gear nut issue 2. Never had a input shaft break. 3. Never had bearing failure. 4. Never had synchro failure (except the two defective sets less than 2k miles).

Like I said with a automatic and torque converter you have way more slippage till you get to a locked up state. Hence you can jump up in timing and come out better. Being a manual doesn't slip it needs a bit of help on the low end so dropping to 13 retards deep enough to spool quicker. Give you an idea I posted fuel and mileage on Beast now here is ¼ tank used and trip on Thor. This is roughly 16 MPG. CEL is on from P0243 code already replace the wastegate solenoid. (Different topic)

Lol.. 60 to 70k a year here. Back with dialysis runs. Heck I'm putting almost 1k every couple weeks on Thor.

Again like I said... I've not been on the rollers in a long time last time was back in 2006. I rolled 381/831 with just a Edge Comp, stock injectors.

Again the auto transmission has more slippage so you can start out higher in timing. Just remember its not only about timing retard on heavy throttle you have to look at timing as a cruise state from the 1500 realm too. Like myself I've got a few towns that have speed limits at 30 MPH so in 4th gear it drops to 1,200 RPM and bucks severely because of over advancement with cruise timing +2 and 15 degree at the 1500 band. So the 13 is to prevent that being I've got 17 degrees at a cruise state at 30 MPH and will cause serious bucking. So with 13 in the 1500 band and the cruise timing puts me at 15 degree which will not buck at all. Again its not always about launching performance but you have to look at cruise performance too. Then if I just downshift ot 3rd then I'm running 2,100 at 30 MPH which is lots of RPM's for nothing.

Ok my suggestion is to pull the ECM plug and test with a ohm meter between the ECM plug and the ECT plug it should show 0 ohms. No more than 5 ohm is allowed. Now you do one more test leaving both plugs open. Test between a pin and ground to verify there is no wire shorted to ground this should show infinite ohms or open circuit. If any ohms show then there is a short to ground. If these two test are OK. Then you need to send the ECM in for rebuilding being the problem is most likely internal. Another way is to find another ECM from a friend or shop that is like model truck and swap temporarily and see if the problem goes away. If the problem goes away then the ECM is damaged internally. ECT sensor controls idle speed. As the ECT drops lower it will raise the idle speed up for warm up. I found this out during the development of my high idle kit and using a rheostat on the ECT leads as I dropped the temperature the idle speed rises. Even running one of the foolers 3 or 6 cylinder will drop it to 123*F but no real effect on performance or idle speed. It once it down in the double digits that you see idle rise.

I finally return from up north getting my transmission back. Yup I wore out the gears for the input and counter shaft. Look closely the input shaft had worn through the hard facing and then weaken the teeth and broke off. Again when this failure occurred I had the Quadzilla on level 2. Remember all these gears now had 435k miles and just plain wore out. Jason told me my previous rebuilder (Weller Truck, Boise)did a good job of rebuilding last time and he seen all the updated stuff in the transmission. There isn't much left to upgrade... As for Jason Hammer I talked to him and he's more than wiling to join the forum and help other manual transmission owners. He's very knowledgeable and can work on ANY manual transmission. He is self taught as well. Now here in the future I'm planning on going back up to Spokane, WA and learning from him. He gave me a stellar price on the rebuild and 1 year warranty from this point on. Next step to re-install the transmission. Input shaft and damage... Here you can see the wear that weakened the gear teeth after the hard facing was lost. As for the NV4500 transmission the counter shaft is one piece. Nothing to do but change the entire shaft. Then the gear itself...

This is due to the torque converter allowing more slippage during launching. Still in all the low band (1,500) should be slightly retarded for launching. You should never be cruising near 1,500 realm really being it well below the torque curve of the engine. Like myself I design to get most of my travel time around 2,000 RPMs @ 66 MPH in 5th gear. One of the few factors of why I was able to break the old high mark of 27.2 MPG (Edge Comp and +50HP Injectors) now with 28.04 MPG is my high mark. (Quadzilla and +150 HP Injectors).When you get the timing dialed in you find the EGT drop like a rock. My 55 MPH is super low at 500*F even 65 MPH float about 550*F to 600*F. Two things I'll say timing is the MOST important setting. Then the fuel map should NOT just ramp up from low fuel to max fuel. Again timing your going to have to work with it till its figure out and provides the LOWEST EGTs. Fuel map you'll need a defuel realm to control smoke. Then I would create a STOCK fuel zone where most of the normal driving occurs. Then a POWER mode where when boost rises past your cruise mode it kicks in extra power. Since I live in the mountains and climb hills and grades (7 to 16%) I needed a wide cruise realm between 5 to 15 PSI which is all set for 100% fuel. Now above 15 PSI the fuel ramps up to 150% by the time it hits +30 PSI. Again this design is capable of 24 to 28 MPG. Just look 425 Miles on the trip and just slightly above 1/2 tank. Just quick rough math 1/2 tank is 17.5 gallons. 425 / 17.5 = 24.28 MPG !!! Quadzilla Adrenaline (My custom tune), 150 HP injectors (popped at 320 bar), HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo (60/60/12), 245/75 R16 tires (final ratio to the ground 3.69:1) Another trip... After all my running around I was down to a 3/4 mark and netted 28.04 MPG.

Heck I just scaled Thor on Monday it scaled out at 8,800 pound with all my tools and toolboxes. At least Thor is carrying the weight of tools and stuff that allows me to do my job. Now a 9,000 pound Hummer that can't really haul anything thing because of its mass and weight more you drop in of cargo the less the batteries are going hold up and shorten its travel time just like more weight I put in Thor the more its going to reduce MPG. Mass is Mass... This why I'm glad I got my trans back for Beast and going to go back to my ECO-Diesel. Beast is mere 7,300 pounds and ranging 24 to 28 MPG now.

First off welcome to the family... As for ECT sensor it supplied the +5V and sense on the same lead. So when the sensor is unplugged the ground reference is gone so the temp should max out like it did this is normal. For the ECM to report -40*F means the sense lead is shorting to ground. That is the only way to drop to low volts. I didn't see any mention of reading codes. Could you grab a OBDII reader and list all the P codes here it would help. Don't thing its unusual to see a internal short inside the ECM. I've seen cases where the +5V reference is gone or it seems like every one of the sensor shorted to ground. Worse yet to have the ECM either all hi volt or lo volt codes for everything. Take notice that the ECT sensor is sharing the sensor ground with other sensors. This change through the years but not by much. Take notice that

Like I know of a VP44 injection pump that can produce 1,000 HP plus without any help. Being I helped the member figure out how to increase the flow.

I know I'm past 375 hp. I'm guessing between 450 to 500 hp and about 1200 foot pounds. Turn up the Quadzilla up it's quite easy to light the tires up.