Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Stuck Idle problem
Yes it's an option but it would be nice to verify error codes one more time and see what the author gets for TPS value. At a true idle it should show 0% TPS. Again if the current APPS is electronic IVS then it voltage required to set IVS state. Now a Timbos APPS is angle set IVS. As long as the wiper inside can reach the Idle Position contact the idle position and the idle software will be set.
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Injector size as it relates to Quadzilla tuning
7x0.0085 is typically 75 HP injectors. As for injectors you have to weigh in the pop pressure the injectors are set up too. Like myself I'm 320 bar which is +10 bar over stock. This is for atomization value but comes at a cost of needing to advance timing more. Now if your below 310 bar you need to retard some because the injectors are firing early. Size injector you need to start at 85% or so for canbus fuel and ramp up. Best to have 5 to 10 PSI of 100% stock power for cruising zone. When you ramp up to 150% start your wiretap at the same PSI of boost that way gain the power of both together. Bigger turbos need deeper retard to get launched and spooled. Stock turbos and auto trans can start out advanced. Like my NV4500 needs to start at 13° so it can spool up the HX35/40 Hybrid. Optimal timing should produce low EGTs. For example at 55 MPH my average is 450°F EGTs and 65 MPH is 550°F. Engine load at 65 MPH is below 20%. This gives me a high mark of 28.04 MPG. That is good efficiency. If you generating heat you not setup right. Good starting point you should see 19° of timing at 2k RPMs. Tires and gearing make huge impacts. Optimal final ratio should be closer to 3.73 after tires. For example 245/75 R16 tires 30.5 inch tall and 3.55 gear produces final ratio of 3.69:1. Lower ratio number than 3.55 is a huge problem. 4.10 is getting too low geared. Bigger the tire the lower the ratio number like 37 inch tires on 3.55 is 3.00:1 which is very bad ratio, creates lots of heat.
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Stuck Idle problem
That is my thought is the APPS sensor is not setting the proper IVS (idle validation switch). Being that if idle was grounded it would ditch the APPS signal and use the 800 RPM idle software. Then when throttling is grounded then idle software is ditched and APPS value is used gence you higher than normal idle speed because it not setting the idle ground for IVS.
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Replacing the Cooling System
Even with the check valve on my old 1996 Dodge was still draining back on long periods of being parked. Yup it was a dynamic transmission with modified to pump in park.
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Airdog Fuel Module
Most likely all black wires. There will be 2 going to the sender. Then 2 will go to the pump. There is a blue clip inside the plug. Pull it out and then with a small screwdriver lightly lift the lock and each pin to remove the wires.
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Airdog Fuel Module
All that stays in the tank. Leave the stock sender all there. Just pull the 2 wires out the inside plug of the sender for the old in tank pump so its not running. Install a second draw straw in the tank but not in the sender basket. Reason why is you don't want the hot return fuel in the sender basket. I've been outside the sender basket since 2006 and never once had hot fuel. Fuel temp are typically <120*F unless a super hot day, and towing may I might reach the high 130*F. My last install I did a custom mount for the AirDog 150 pump where I drilled and tapped the frame and hung the pump between the cab mounts to guard the filters and pump from debris strike damage. This was done on a short box truck and this trick cannot be done with FASS it just too big to hide!
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Well it finally happened! QUADZILLLLLA
Most likely making negative torque. More or less have expanding gases in the cylinder before the piston makes it to the top. So part of the power is lost in that part of the stroke and then when the crank passes TDC then the expanding gases are pushing hard. EGT are higher than they should be... Also if you monitoring the oil temp you'll notice the engine oil temps will be higher being there is more flame front in contact with the cylinder walls longer so the coolant near the oil cooler get heat soaked and oil temps rise. 66 MPH = 2,000 RPM = 550*F EGT's = 162*F Oil Temp 55 MPH = 1,600 RPM = 450 EGT's = 158*F Oil Temp Anything that is generating heat is a loss of power... If you truly getting all the power consumed all your temperatures should be low. The only way I could reach 725 to 775*F is hauling my RV on flat ground or climbing a 7% grade typically. Already got to 28.04 MPG on this tune... 425 miles at a half a tank typically if I'm running light foot.
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Anyone with an RV near N.W. Ohio?
I'll get another photo in the daylight and see the damage to that tree. There might be another limb broke off by spring time. The next limb is leaning out over my power to the house and could break off. As for RVing I'm planning on getting it together by Early April and being ready to travel somewhere outside my typical Lewiston, ID to Boise, ID range. I want to see some other state than Idaho and meet up with some of the other members too.
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Replaced batteries, Quadzilla no longer works.
Personal thoughts on this... Bad battery terminals could create a point of time hooking up the the jumper cables to the battery and then with the Quadzilla being wired directly to the battery could cause a surge effect of sorts. This is most likely why I don't have these issues I'm not directly hooked at the batteries for either ground or the power. Power I get from the PDC terminal at the alternator fuse then the ground I get off the body. So there is no way to surge anymore that typically is in the electrical system. Now as for my terminals I've still got my factory terminal yet and in super good condition. Just kept them covered in engine oil that all and never had corroded terminal of weak connections ever. There is nothing tied directly to either the positive or negative terminals on my truck except the W-T ground wire mod which now has a new ground for the ECM/VP44 and the alternator charge lead. No other accessory wiring is tied to the batteries. All accessories are wired at the PDC stud.
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rear brakes adjusting to tight
Going by memory... If I remember correctly the cable typically is ran on the front shoe and down to the ratchet arm. The adjuster can only go one way being if you install it backwards then the adjuster will add slack every time you hit the brakes. But I've not done drum brakes on a Dodge in a long time.
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Stock Mirrors for 3500
Flip out towing mirrors are out there too.
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Merry Christmas!
- rear brakes adjusting to tight
Possible if the parking brake cable doesn't have enough slack to drag the brakes but that would be the other way around tight at first then lighten up later.- rear brakes adjusting to tight
The only thing I can think of is the cable is too short maybe and causing the auto-adjuster to pull the shoe too tight.- Merry Christmas!
Be safe out there the roads are rough here this morning...- Replaced batteries, Quadzilla no longer works.
What's weird I've had my Quadzilla all these years and never thought to unhook the Quadzilla anytime I made the hundreds of jump start for other vehicles. The only Quadzilla failure which I don't think was a failure but the ground screw came lose and started running rough and misfired. Traded with DAP / Quadzilla Power and kept on going. Still to this day I've never unhooked my Quadzilla for jump starting. Is this because older version vs newer version? I don't know but no issues here...- Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas to you all... Hopefully there is something nice under the Christmas tree this year for all of you...- Anyone with an RV near N.W. Ohio?
Well my first trip was suppose to be chasing @IBMobile, @IBMOBILE-JEN and @JAG1 down to Mono Village in CA for a camping trip but my luck was bad and broke the input shaft of my transmission and ended up staying here to work and my nest egg for that trip disappeared. So now try again in the spring ot see if I can get it together and do the meet and greet in Cally with those guys and then move on from there. Put of that is also getting my RV in good shape to travel too! Kind of like today I've got to hurry up and get a transmission done on a 2006 Dodge before tomorrow being the temp outside will fall to mere 0*F and I'm stuck working outside too. Ekkk! Then got a 2001 Dodge V10 needs a water pump. Oh fun!- Injection Pump
Sorry to say but Blue Chip isn't a Bosch Certified rebuilder the last I checked being he selling VP44 with used PSG which is not allowed by any certified rebuilder they are suppose to core out the PSG of every unit according to Bosch standards. I stick with Bosch Certified rebuilders which typically have the highest standards being they are bench tested for over 3 hours per unit and the NEW PSG is flashed with all the calibration data after it passes all test. So the chances of a bad VP44 are extremely low. Again since BC is selling used PSG that means the flash is not done for calibration and the PSG is already weak from heat cycles and never been bench tested so it may fail shortly afterwards.- Anyone with an RV near N.W. Ohio?
Seriously I've taken care my Mom @MoparMomover 16 years till she pasted in 2020. Now I no longer have restrictions of staying at home and do want to travel to see some of the rest of the United States too. I've got members I want to catch up with like @dripleywhich might come this way when he retires. Then there is @towhungerfordI want to meet down in Louisiana. There is several name I'd like to meet. I also had the idea of going state by state and calling out on here for each state and asking if people need help and working my way across the US by doing jobs for the members and getting to know then one at a time. Opytimally would be getting Thor (2006 Dodge) finalized and haul my RV from job to job and having my tools on the back and living out of my RV for a few months. Dumb idea but it might happen some day...- Anyone with an RV near N.W. Ohio?
I've never been past the Mississippi River. Farthest east I was to my grand parents place (Minnesota) back when I was young like 6 or 7 years old. Then went back for a reunion for my Mom but that was in like the 90's and not be out that way again. I'm trying to slowly get ready for travel this year I really wanna bust out and hit some of the members of the website. I would love to see people gather together into group in there area and build clubs of sorts and help each other out and get together in times of repair and need and get help then too. We are all neighbor of sorts but with wider gap between us.- Replacing the Cooling System
OEM or Cummins Brand doesn't promise that it will be a top quality hose either finding out that Cummins does not make a lot of parts but buy from other sources which might of changed several times since the production of our trucks back in the day.- Anyone with an RV near N.W. Ohio?
2.7 acres worth of ground. I shot this photo from across the canyon 5 miles away. Big maple tree out back give lots of shade.- Anyone with an RV near N.W. Ohio?
Visa Versa... I've got enough land to accommodate as well I'll have full hook ups (sewer, water and power) for an RV by this summer hopefully.- Anyone with an RV near N.W. Ohio?
Permanently... Yes... But give me good reason to travle sure I'll hitch up my RV and go out to work. Time will tell. I wanna start in the northwest stopping and help members and grow outward if possible. I can always stop by @JAG1palce and hook up and stay with my RV. - rear brakes adjusting to tight