Mopar1973Man

Make that about 100k miles for the NAPA track bar that I've being using. I don't have oversized tires or lift kits, so I get good longevity from a NAPA track bar.

Yup. In the article section I've got a article just for that.

Air in the hydraulics. Pull it back out hang the system vertically and bleed it back out. Nearly impossible while installed in the truck.

Might be time to send the ECM in for testing. If it test out OK that means the wiring is having issues. If the ECM is found with a problem then that it.

Should work out fine. Just assembly and get it fired up and watch for leaks being if rings are too loose might weep or to big it might nick the o-ring on assembly. Might also be good to spray the connector and o-rings with silicone spray makes assembly super easy and less likely of leaking.

People are crazy. I really hate heading to the city.

Even my OEM radiator the rubber seals gave up started weeping after 300k miles. I just bought another factory style radiator from NAPA. The biggest thing is good cap the releases at the right pressure and pH of the coolant is kept fairly neutral.

You can most likely stop by harbor freight for a o-ring kit. They have good assortment of sizes. I'm going to assume without seeing the connector it's like a A/C lines you'll use a release tool to push the locking spring back to release the lines. I typically got a lot of o-rings from A/C kits. They work good in power steering and fuel systems.

Yup looks like you @Sycostang67. Being your just here no long ago. Nice meeting you.

So on boost values it's difficult to read with any OBDII live data tool. Being it not simple math. Now as for testing I would ohm test between the MAP plug and ECM plug. Should be 0 ohm no more than 5 ohms. Now with both plugs unhooked you need to test between a pin and ground to verify no shorts to ground. It should read infinite ohms. If all that checks out I would consider new MAP sensor and possibly having the ECM tested. Also I seen you have a Edge EZ it's possible the module got water in it and the circuit board will be corroded. It's also possible the boost fooler is shot. Try unplugging all that and test again.

That thing climbs rocks good.

Not mine. The group I'm working for in McCall ID this happens to be the property manager old 1977 Ford F-250 with a 400 CID. It was last driven back in 1998 and been standing he wants to bring it back to life. So one step at a time getting the engine to run. Then getting electrical sorted out. Fuel system, etc the list continues. Like right now I'm sorting out a hydraulic leak on the steering the two rams are leaking after all these years. Now I'm going to attempt to get the last one freed ( need to build a tool). Then send both rams off to Ryan at Blue Top Steering.

Well Thor yesterday started to buck once in a awhile and trip a few codes. P2509 - Power down Data Lost Error P0088 - Fuel Rail Pressure Signal Is Above Maximum Limit P0243 - Turbo Boost Wastegate Solenoid So this what I figured out. The P2509 code is triggering the P0088 when the power drop the pressure solenoid on the CP3 maxes out when the loss of power and then when the power returns it sensed but drops quick back to normal. Now I've gotta figure out the power issue for the P2509 code. As for the wastegate code I've gotta do a ohm test from the wastegate solenoid to the ECM. It a brand new wastegate solenoid I bought from DAP. So I know the solenoid isn't the issue but it going to be a wiring issue being its also random. I can reset the codes and it will remain off for a period of time them pop on again.

I'm not sure. Typically the exhaust brakes on autos only work while the torque converter is locked up. I'm not sure how much you'll get I've not had a chance to play with auto newer generation yet. Now on a manual transmission will brake to near nothing just keep downshifting.

It's true RV275s are pretty mild and could be used without any mods. But I typically suggest a minimum of +50 HP injectors being at least you can have them pop tested and flow matched.

Too advanced. Cruising timing is too high.

Ouch...

Something isn't right. Yeah if the signal line is open it will show max temp and trip the CEL.

Injector wise I would think about anything between +50 HP and +150 HP without much additional mods. Highly suggested to have a Quadzilla tuner. Now when doing custom injectors you'll get them flow matched and pop tested with tight tolerance. Like my current set are really custom, +150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010) popped at 320 bar which is +10 bar over stock or +15 bar than most general injectors custom made. This aided in the fact of my 28.04 MPG high mark. I look at it this way they already built the 1,000 HP engines. How about trying to build the 30 MPG engine that is still better power than stock? Have your cake and eat it too!

The gent I worked with we dual fed the pump through the body and normal fuel inlet. Changing the internal regulator. Boring all the feed passages open a few thousandth more including return. Then upgraded the front seal and increased fuel pressure to 30 PSI. There is quite a bit done. I think cam ring and shoes are different.

I've always been good about keeping fluids changed and checked. Yeah amount of power is part of longevity. Just like I asked Jason about that he stated the high power put more stress on the gears. He's got no problem with the 50 weight transmission fluid being is GL-4 and good for viscosity. Yeah the power does play a role. 1. Broke the main shaft. (Edge Comp & +75 HP injectors) 2. Wore the hard facing out of 5th broke the gear. 3. Two sets of defective brass synchro. One set was 3nd gear and the other set was 4th gear. 4. Wore the hard facing out of the input gear and broke. What I never had a problem with. 1. Never had a 5th gear nut issue 2. Never had a input shaft break. 3. Never had bearing failure. 4. Never had synchro failure (except the two defective sets less than 2k miles).

Like I said with a automatic and torque converter you have way more slippage till you get to a locked up state. Hence you can jump up in timing and come out better. Being a manual doesn't slip it needs a bit of help on the low end so dropping to 13 retards deep enough to spool quicker. Give you an idea I posted fuel and mileage on Beast now here is ¼ tank used and trip on Thor. This is roughly 16 MPG. CEL is on from P0243 code already replace the wastegate solenoid. (Different topic)

Lol.. 60 to 70k a year here. Back with dialysis runs. Heck I'm putting almost 1k every couple weeks on Thor.

Again like I said... I've not been on the rollers in a long time last time was back in 2006. I rolled 381/831 with just a Edge Comp, stock injectors.

Again the auto transmission has more slippage so you can start out higher in timing. Just remember its not only about timing retard on heavy throttle you have to look at timing as a cruise state from the 1500 realm too. Like myself I've got a few towns that have speed limits at 30 MPH so in 4th gear it drops to 1,200 RPM and bucks severely because of over advancement with cruise timing +2 and 15 degree at the 1500 band. So the 13 is to prevent that being I've got 17 degrees at a cruise state at 30 MPH and will cause serious bucking. So with 13 in the 1500 band and the cruise timing puts me at 15 degree which will not buck at all. Again its not always about launching performance but you have to look at cruise performance too. Then if I just downshift ot 3rd then I'm running 2,100 at 30 MPH which is lots of RPM's for nothing.