Mopar1973Man

It's wore off the corner smooth. Its not broke off. This is cause from all the canyon driving on the old 31 inch tires. 235's or 265's I had to downshift a lot. Now with the 245's I don't have to downshift to 4th other to pass people now.

I wish I've used up most of my fender washers.

Heck I just drop into the local hardware store and grab a fender washer and then using a grinder and grind it into a tear drop shape and then bolting it down. Super cheap.

The tip on the shift is just about as wide as the gap between the outer shift forks. Making it wider might grab two forks together. I just have that one spot dowshifting on 4th that I can wedge that tip between because of the rounded fork on the left. All other shifts are fine.

My biggest thing is finding a way to keep the cherry from dropping back in the transmission. I was thinking like stuff wet rags around the area so to block the cherries from dropping in the transmission as much.

Not sounding to easy. Keep the ideas coming. I'm trying to avoid pulling the transmission. I know it I pull it I could pull the cover and change that one shift fork.

Back to stock size. 265/70 R17 on 2010 Mopar factory steel wheels. Thor has new shoes to run the pavement and back roads! I've got a few studs to replace and I need to order up a set of stock lug nuts. Then I can put the center caps on as well. I did find a eBay seller that had factory 1/2 x 20 bulge lug nuts full set of 32 lugs for mere $20 dollars. Now to ditch that stupid 2 inch leveling kit next. The front is higher than the rear. Being all the steel tools in back is squatting During the install I had 4 lugs that absolutely ruined the studs and then broke one on the driver side rear. .

The Beast NV4500 has a issue with getting stuck in 4th gear. Now I know @dripley mention his shift issue for his NV5600 where the steel tip was worn out and had to replace the shift tower. Now for the NV4500 I've been hanging up with 4th gear if I shift too aggressive from 5th to 4th. If I do hang the shifter up I've got to pull the shift tower up to free it and then shift all forks back to neutral. Then reinstall. When I heard about Dripley and his issue I only looked at the shift tip for the NV4500 and didn't see why. Well my trip back from Parma with the wheels I got stuck in 4th gear again about 8 miles from home. Yesterday morning I got up and tore it down again to reset the stick and looked carefully at everything and finally found the issue. Now look on the left fork which is 5th and reverse. Now the center rod moving up is 4th gear. You can see it would be super easy to cram the shifter tip between that rounded off corner and the 4th gear fork. All those years of driving back and forth to Ontario, OR. 432k miles currently. Take notice to the wore off corner this always the shifter to sneak between the fork and jam up. I know that fork head is cast iron. I was thinking if I can find a good local welder and put a bit of metal back on that corner then file it back to make it square again. Anyone think this is possible?

Just like me out here in Idaho. Wonderful view.

It will error out in one way or another. There is software limitations between the ECM and VP44. Quadzilla mention back that we might be able to squeeze 32 degrees but that it. Kind of like trying to extend the fueling you can't because it only fuels to 4095 Decimal (0FFF Hex signed). Truthfully I though a while back if someone could produce a ECM that had the limits removed. Like MAP pressure is limited to 20 PSI. Fueling is limited to 4095, timing again is going ot have a limit. This why all performance box use the priority message to over ride the current data with new data to extend the power. Then beyond that the wire tap will extend 1,200us to 2,200us worth of pulse behind the CanBus signal. If the ECM and PSG were unrestricted you get more. I will mention I've worked with another member and found a way to make a bigger and badder VP44 pump. I cant remember the cc amounts but it could power 1,000 HP on fuel only easy. It has a requirement of better than 250 HP injectors to keep the pump from choking. No matter what there will be a limitation (software, ECM, etc.) that will prevent you from gaining to much more out of the VP44 pump and ECM.

Well... All I can say is rebuild time. If its got that much blow by then the engine should be rebuilt. Either the engine was dusted out by a washable filter or bad injectors washing out the rings. Could be head gasket blown to the push rod hole too. I've seen cracked heads pressurize either the fuel tank (cracked to the return rail) or the crankcase. Compression test would tell the story of whats going on.

Might be a bit slow launching though... Too much advancement?

Still a max of 30 degrees but more sliders to allow for timing up to 4k. The 30 degree limit is a mechanical limit of the pump period.

You might need to have the ECM reflashed if the software isn't present for cruise control. You might contact a Dodge dealer and ask by VIN number if the ECM has the software present.

Call them and ask. What you got to lose...

Nope... The ECM crapped the bed for sure with the P0606. All other error code are result of the P0606 code. There is a solder connection or chip malfunction. Double check your AC noise from the alternator. I know you done the WT ground mod but double check your connection too.

Now I can provide this. The max timing a Quadzilla will provide is 30 degree BTDC. The lowest could possibly be about TDC. Just remember there is 3 parts to the PSG. Fueling, Timing, and Diagnostics. (Error codes, etc.)

WT ground wire mod is quick about an hour job to split the loom open and mkae the new connections. You just need the crimps for the wire and then a 150A circuit breaker or fuse for the alternator charge lead. I've done three trucks now, my 2002 Beast has this mod too.

I would think if there is a bent shaft of any type shortly there should be oil leaking through the seals. It will in a short order beat the seals out.

Compression test will show the bad cylinder much quicker. We had a old member with a cracked piston that would pass the blow by test but as the truck warmed up the misfire would get worse. He never did a compression test but ended up replacing the entire engine over a cracked piston.

I had one that I rebuilt the ECM and it ran for 5 miles and then died after the 5 mile run. Sent in back to be tested and it returned good. Reinstalled and 30 second later died again and wouldn't start again. Wiring malfunction in the CANBus is all I can figure. Being all the power functions are through the TIPM. On my 2006 the starter quit too. The exhaust brake is wired in on the same circuit with the starter. Once I blew the fuse in the TIPM for that circuit it dodn't start but once I replaced the fuse it came back with the exhaust brake. (BD Exhaust brake with auto cruise control braking).

Did you check the wire between the IAT sensor and the ECM? If there is a wiring issue say the common sensor ground being bad it can and will alter the IAT signal. TIP: If the IAT is disconnect it will max out the temp at 240*F. So weak connection will cause the value to be high. This is because the +5V signal and sense is on the same wire and requires the ground to pull it back down. If the sensor shorts to ground it will show -40*F. Your case is a bad sensor ground or bad ECM ground. TIP: Do the WT ground wire mod this will ensure the ground to the ECM ground and sensor grounds are good.

Really simple. Like I've said all a long that just because it says Cummins does NOT make it quality. Cummins been and always will change providers when they an make a better dollar. I've already proven the Cummins thermostat and now the Cummins head gasket. All mine are Cummins OE gaskets but different numbers. Same application but superseded. By different manufactures. NOTE: I'm not placing any of this on the vendor. This is strictly manufacture design problem and again by Cummins. If I got to do head gasket again I will NOT be ordering a Cummins gasket... I'll go to NAPA for a head gasket kit. At least with NAPA the upgrade to better products as they go along.

There was only ONE 2001 Dodge I know of with a KDP problem that was documented by the dealer. Other than that it should of been resolved in 2000.

Wheel bearings? Loose bearings can allow for wobble of the wheels. Check even the rears. Ball joints or tie rod ends again can allow for movement. This might show up in the steering wheel. Deformed tires, broken belts, etc. I know you said you swapped tires.