Mopar1973Man

I've seen truck where the owner never done the band adjustments and have the wedge fall out.

I've seen CRACKED fuses do the same thing. The starter solenoid fuse is one of the square fuses. I've seen where you look at them and they look fine. But when you ohm test it the fuses is blown. Don't look blown by any means. I've had a local friend that could try and start the truck and then the fuse would heat up and separate at the crack. Do nothing for 20 to 30 minutes and then later on work just fine like your case. All I needed was a new fuse problem was solved. Like others said the starter solenoid contacts inside the starter will wear from arcing. Typically you'll hear the solenoid clack and starter doesn't spin. But being your losing all power I would start with the battery cables and then work towards the PDC and start checking the fuses. Use a ohm meter on the square fuses. Another one I had was a Jeep. The owner would hit the key and ZAP nothing. All the lights go out no dome light nothing. Then hook up jumper cables and nothing changed. Now after doing a feed wire voltage drop test I found the negative cable was rotten in the middle. After hooking my jumper cables between the negative post and the block the Jeep started and ran just fine. Change a negative cable and problem was solved.

I'll educate you... Then you can do the same thing. Since its only 105*F here today it isn't happening to quickly at this rate. Too damn hot period!

Oh trust me they did! When I ordered a manifold gasket the paperwork had all the specs in the box. At least for my 1996 Gasser it was in INCH pounds for the bottom of the manifold.

@Dynamic is just a phone call away. Phone number is at the top of the page. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

Bring your truck to me and I'll do the job and get pictures. Solution to that problem. Being I know how to make my ball joints last.

Wish the author would of been near me I would of fixed it the first time. I've seen this before as well when people ditch the old pump mount not knowing it a open hole to the block.

Timing makes huge difference in performance and smoke control. Then exhaust brake if your going to want twin your going to need in line exhaust brake not a turbo mounted exhaust brake.

Ball joint press from Harbor Frieght. Don't over load the press but with some hammer blows you can shock them out. Still like my previous method which I kind of tried. After using heat I had a ball joint explode spitting the ball stud out. Then burned a hole and relief cut the cap with a hacksaw and tap of a hammer it fell out.

Really not a whole lot to the valve body. I watch @Dynamic drill out my 46RE out of the 1996 Dodge and modify the shift firmness. This man is a genius when it comes to rebuilding 46RE 47RE or 48RE. Modified the clutch to add an extra friction and steel disc. All kinds of goodies.

Highly suggest not p-pumping unless your planning on racing. Lose all the dynamic timing. Not worth it you can build more power with a VP44 personally. Exhaust brake is huge and worth every penny. Brakes pads last upwards of 250k miles. Like the 2006 I've got has auto braking while in cruise control.

Little secret. If you have a torch burn the cap off off the ball joint. Then beat the ball stud out. Then use a hacksaw to relief cut the remaining cap and one small tap its out. (Off topic) I did this trick for the 2006 doing wheel joint I cut the trunion out of the shaft. Then pop the snap rings and beat each cap through the yoke. Easier than trying beat 2 caps back and forth. Took 15 minutes to change the u-joint.

Then you don't wanna hear I only paid 39 bucks for front ball joints and lasted over 250k miles and counting. Just cheap AC Delco joints.

Yup very addicting... bigger problem for me is which Dodge to drive. 1996, 2002, 2006?

Fuel map I use for 150 HP injectors is... 0 to 5 PSI is 80% to 100% (smoke control) 5 to 15 PSI is STOCK fuel 100% (cruise band) 15 to 30 PSI is 100% to 150% (power band) Now set the wire tap up for... Low Boost for 15 PSI this way the wiretap and CanBus climb together making some serious power. TPS minimum for 50% don't need the wiretap for normal driving. Now that 5 to 15 PSI stock power band allows for normal mountain driving providing plenty of power without pouring the coal to it. Above 15 PSI is all power band. This setup and a max of 29.5 degrees @ 3k RPM is what blew my head gasket. The power was very impressive.

Just set it for level zero. Then watch the timing value you can build a tune to mimic stock timing. Also level zero is stock (Quadzilla is disabled).

Double check the tone ring and be sure it's lined up with the sensor. Ive seen one member here that lost a carrier bearing and it shifted over to one side and was misaligned so no speed.

If they where studs then yes. Head bolts will just stretch more. This why you have to measure the total bolt length to verify if they can be used again. Biggest thing is make sure to use the limits on the iQuad. Warmup mode (at least 140F), boost limit (based on your turbo stock should be limited to 35 PSI), EGT limits (1200F suggested), etc. My mistake was reaching to far up in power with limits to high... EGT limit was set for 1400, no boost limit, warm up was set for 140. Basically from talking I built up too much drive pressure and lifted the head. Then coupled with high timing yup I blew the head gasket. Live and learn from my mistakes.

Torque wrench is very much required. Like Dodge 5.9L V8 Magnum engines are very low torque numbers.

Just consider every jet flying in the ski produces more CO2 than any diesel vehicle. Heck a good forest fire creates more CO2 in one hour than my diesel truck will in its life time. Just DemonRats throwing global warming at all of us.

On my 1996 it was a intake manifold gasket was sucked out of place and created a lean issue on number 6 which change sparks plugs, even the fuel injector. But ultimately the intake gasket was the issue. After replacement I've not had any issues again.

First one was head curl after 350k miles. This next one we would say excessive timing, excessive drive pressure, and a heavy foot. Made 50 PSI of boost and died. Blew all the fuel rails out. Had to reprime the VP44 to get it started.

If you need quicker turbo spool up start the timing at 13 degrees it will spool faster.

All I've got is cheap AC Delco ball joints. Still going...

Make a boost test cap. I can hook an air hose to it and turn up the pressure on the regulator and then listen for air leaks. You can mix up some soap water and spray all the air system.