Mopar1973Man

Only running +50 HP injectors. So there is a bit of error but not much. Like right now I'm at 500 miles and just above 1/8 of tank and easily reach the 600 miles with what is left for fuel. For sure a better MPG's for sure.

Quality DVM like Fluke or similar that can measure small AC voltages. Red probe to the alternator charge stud and the black to clean block metal is best or the negative on the passenger battery. You really need to. The alternator lead is paired right next to the ECM ground and VP44 ground so when AC noise is created the noise jumps right into the ground leads and pollutes the ground signals to the ECM. This is a required mod. The alternator charge lead is move solely to the passenger battery and the ECM ground are to the gear case and the driver side battery. No longer an issue after the mod. Dropped me from 55-60 mV AC to mere 9-11 mV AC after I was done which is acceptable.

I'm close to 500 HP on my 2002 Dodge (The Beast). +150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010) popped at 320 bar Quadzilla Adrenaline (My own custom tune) Air Dog 150 HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo (60/60/12) The biggest thing to keeping the EGT's cool is a good tuner that allows for timing like Quadzilla and then proper final ratio to the ground. Like the Beast its gear to 3.69:1 to the ground. This is 245/75 R16 tires on 3.55 gear axle which produces this final ratio. It put me at 2k RPMs at 66 MPH. This truck maxed out at 27.2 MPG years ago. But Still able to reach 20-21 MPG with this set up. On my 2006 Dodge now with 3.73 gears and stock 265/70 R17 tires I'm still at 3.73 final to the ground. This is about 2,100 at 65 MPH. Great for heavy trucks and still reaching 19-20 MPG. I'm not in it for race either but for Efficiency and longevity. Well on the Beast I've just popped 2 head gaskets. First one was too much drive pressure most likely (high timing too). Then the second gasket OEM Cummins delaminated and blew out. (Defective gasket!).

Should follow me more. I've been getting good quality parts for year but paying less. I just checked NAPA (Prolink) its $21.79 my cost but list or the public for $31.70. Then I fall back to RockAuto.Com and typically find good deals but the waiting for mail is the slow part.

350 miles to half tank of fuel sitting right at 19.9 MPG on the overhead trip computer. Only problem I would need at least two jack stands and the a free jack for other reasons. That is cool though!

Just looked it up on RockAuto.Com a brake light switch is a mere $7 dollars!!! Really you going to go that far to save a 7 dollar brake light switch... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,electrical-switch+&+relay,brake+light+switch,10474

Last I time I did the clean up of a turbo I used brake cleaner. Then left it stand in the sun for about an hour to dry up.

Don't feel bad after having my exhaust brake blow the fuse under the hood I couldn't understand why it didn't want to start. After sorting out the fuse problem and the source of the short being the exhaust brake switch makes contact with a ground sometimes and pop goes the fuse. Weekend project... I need to fix this one too. As for the dome light might check power mirrors and any interior lights including glove box. These are typically all on the same fuse.

If your pulling the radiator out take the extra step and pull the intercooler too and clean it out. The face on the bottom half might be mud caked, then if the air filter is poor you can wash out all the dust or any oil that might of come from washable filters or the turbo.

Good idea to do. It will for sure keep you out of trouble too. Don't ask me how I know...

Normal you can remove different modules that could affect the voltage. Modules that can't be removed... PCM - This is source of the CCD network. ECM - This is the secondary computer. Gauge Cluster - This creates the bias voltage. All other modules are optional and can be removed. Central timer Radio (Stock OEM) Air Bag Module ABS Module Overhead Trip Computer Causes of failures and errors. Bus Shorted to Battery Bus Shorted to 5 Volts Bus Shorted to Ground Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open Bus (+) Open Bus (–) Open No Bus Bias Bus Bias Level Too High Bus Bias Level Too Low No Bus Termination Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly Remove a module and check the voltage on the bus to see if it returns. If not you didn't find it.

If you not done the WT ground wire mod that would be highly suggested. Then the power comes from two places. There is a fuse that supplies constant 12V (under hood) to the ECM and then there is a second fuse that supplies trigger voltage double check both fuses (in cab).

Every since changing back to the stock tires. The MPG is improving quite a bit. I drove from Riggins up to Donnelly Idaho and rat raced around for over 200 miles when I got home. I only used a 1/4 tank. Typically I'm already near 1/2 tank. The odometer is now correct and with stock tires size and the MPG number is improving. Just checking the final ratio it nearly the same as what I got on the 2002 Dodge. Right there at 3.73 final ratio is powerful and pulls way better.

Yes your problem is CCD network issues. Another way is to turn the key on and the probe the CCD pins on the OBDII plug under the dash it should show 2.51 and 2.49 when the computers stop talking. That is normal Bias Voltage.

The only problem is the ratchet design won't allow for multiple resets eventually the ratchet will fail.

Valve guide can be replaced. I had 18 out of the 24 replaced on my head at 350k miles. This is why my first head job had $2,100 worth of head work and ARP studs added.

Oh I know it can be bored oversized it just if the current sleeves are shot most just bore it out and re-sleeve. Not many are in for larger power that is a very small percentage which I deal with.

All are low. Normally these engines are 400 to 450 PSI. The rings are wasted and the bores most likely need to be sleeved.

Too big for me... I really don't like being in Boise at all. Reminds me of Los Angeles CA when I left back in 1990. Los Angeles was back back in the 1990. Boise was still behind by about 15 years now it caught up and has all the same problems why I left Los Angeles. I like smaller town and quiet communities.

Looks good. The design I see you tweaked it a bit for the front two elbows I like the way it turned out.

I appreciate the offer but I'm good I'm going for huge power yet till I fix a bunch of rattles and wobbles I've got yet. Adding power now would be a mistake. Gotta finish up the removal of the leveling kits, get the nose back down, get the thrust angle corrected, etc. I'm just happy to see a noted INCREASE in MPG hand math since I got the stock tires back on.

Bad valve guides and seals. Once a valve guide wears it usually start rocking the valve stem a bit which tears up the valve seals.

ECM, PCM and VP44 all get there ground from he passenger side battery (directly). This what the W-T ground wire mod changes.

If you look at the design it has a ratchet design to self adjust during install. If you carefully pull the plunger back out you can re-install it again. Yes I've actually figure it out and been able to re-install two switch before.

The upgraded case they had to add quite a bit of metal around the hole. The old case was a suppose to prevent that but with vibration it eats the aluminum case and then continues to walk through. Hence why the case was redesign with even smaller hole to prevent walking out.