Mopar1973Man

Yup. Your in the right place. Just get your threads started on different projects we will help you out. On the speedometer issue do you have an ABS and BRAKE lights on? Fix the speed sensors first. The is one in the rear differential that provides speed info. You might have front sensor issues too. Any CCD Bus issues? No Bus shown in the odometer then it a bus issue preventing the cluster from see the info.

Even my 2002 truck at 82 MPH is 2500 RPM. Then at 66 MPH is 2000 RPM. Also 3.55 gears with 30 inch tires (245/75 R16).

Go to be added. I've got a China made boost controller for the wastegate. I know @IBMobile is using the same as me. The old school boost controller is a brass elbow with a set screw for adjusting how much pressure makes it to the wastegate.

Sounds like this might be a weak wastegate motor spring or no boost elbow. There was a post about guys ditching the wastegate motor all together and just using a spring to hold the wastegate shut. If done right using a bolt with an eyelet and the right amount of spring tension you can control the boost pressure on that turbo by tightening or lossening the spring tension. The drive pressure will build enough to naturally push the wastegate open.

Here is the stock wiring... Standard headlights... Sport Headlights... Now I'm going to remember the method I did my sport headlights... I've got to draw out the schematic. Take notice the bulbs are hooked to +12V to the common contact of the bulb and both hi and lo beams are ground wires. Please don't judge the artwork but that should be what I did years ago for my setup I managed to eliminate 2 relays and have 12V power to the bulbs on both hi and lo beams. DOTS are connections. I tried to ARC OVER other lines. As for stock 2 bulb system the stock head buckets are well junk and haze over and scatter light badly. As you can see I added 100w aircraft landing lights for booster to the crappy stock headlights. That was 45w/65w halogen headlights (Silverstars) and then four 100w aircraft landing lights. As for 4 bulb sport version you'll find the 2nd bulb is just a vertical band of light that does nothing for road lighting. The main bulb is more productive but again only as good as the reflector. I've ran these for barely 6 months and were no better than the factory two bulb set up. Still poor pattern and limited light. Now the Morimoto's... I paid $750 for this set of headlight already assembled and test ready for install. Now these headlight being they are NOT the H1 Mini's that most every gets I got the larger lens that cast way more light. These are the D2S lens and they cast at least 50 feet out both sides off the shoulder of the highway of the truck and can see as high as 50 feet vertically on hi beams at a 1/4 mile. No hotspot, no scattered light just even smooth pattern of light. Lo beams are even better being the cut off is flat and never blinding anyone. As for LED bulbs you only going to get a pattern as good as the quality of the headlight bucket. Another issues with LED's you'll be stopping more often in a snow storm to clear your headlights. LED's do not produce enough bulb heat to shed snow or ice on snowy days. You'll see that my PIAAs are brighter than my Morimotos but hotspot in the highway. Morimoto's are only 35W and the PIAAs are 15W. Morimoto D2S (Lo beam) and PIAA 530 LED Driving lights (Notice lo beams you can't see to the corner quite) Morimoto D2S (Hi beam) and PIAA 530 LED Driving lights (Hi beams you can see the corner and trailer in the distance on a side road)

I've done the relay but only used two relay to do the job. Problem is your working with switched grounds and trying to convert to switched positive. The whole relay thing was to hopefully increase power to the bulbs and convert to switch positive. Now give me some time in the morning I'll see if I can draw a wiring schematic of how to do it.

Heck even back with my Edge Comp and +75 HP injectors on a HX35W turbo I was seeing 35 to 38 PSI.

I made a wooden holder back in the day. Then I changed over to the cellphone and used a floor mounted gooseneck for my phone. Now I'll be switching over to magnet mount for my phone.

Remember everything is backwards. Hi and lo beam legs are negative to ground. The common contact on the bulb is positive. +12V -> Fuse -> Bulb <- Dimmer switch <- Headlight switch <- Ground (drivers side kick panel) Sport headlight won't gain you much. The second bulb is more of a vertical path of light. I didn't even keep mine for a 6 months and went to Morimoto HIDs Headlights. Way better lighting than sport headlights... I do mean way better. I even tried LED bulbs in my 1996 Dodge still in all the Morimotos win with more light with a bigger spread of light without hotspots.

None here... I've only used a HX35W and HX35/40 Hybrid... Ummm... I'm not very smart about turbos... I know its got a spinny thingy that spins really fast and makes all kinds of weird high pitch noises. Just need a better hamster...

First head gasket was the passenger rear of the head with a coolant leak. Second was in front with a oil leak from around the push rod hole.

Your going to have to give up that turbo mounted exhaust brake to give more options. Im in the same boat. I need a different turbo but selections that allow that exhaust brake is very small.

Here is a power distribution map.

Your blend door is correct just got the pin in the wrong half for the black gear. As for photos you need to be using Google Chrome browser make sure it's the current version. I had a few settings wrong but working now. Google Pagespeed Module converts old school photos from GIF, JPG or PNG to modern formats that compress better like .WEBP which is faster to display and less bandwidth.

ECM is at 50% duty cycle reducing the fuel pressure to typically 7 to 10 PSI while cranking which isn't a problem with a mechanical being the starter only rolls over at about 200 RPM. Starting pressure for a mechanical pump would be really low while cranking. No problem there. I've got an old video of cranking pressure and run pressure. You can see the pulsing power to the lift pump with a bouncing fuel pressure. Again since my AirDog is relay controlled I'm not worried about ECM issues. I will admit my location has really helped with gelling issues and debris issues. You can see the skid plate gaurds the filters. Helps a bunch on keeping snow and mud off the pump too.

Interesting...

Kind of like now I've got a air leak in the fuel system of the Beast (2002 Dodge). I can just bump the starter and re-prime the entire system using just the AirDog. Like shown above the mechanical pump would leave me stuck going through that entire re-prime process. One reason I don't really like the mechanical systems UNLESS now you do the extra plumbing to add the stock lift pump back for priming pump then add in the check valves so the stock lift pump can prime and then be bypassed after the mechanical pump is primed. I know I've got to replace the crossover tube o-rings and injector o-rings.

Yeah the fan is loud when it does lock up the fan clutch. Just started this about two or three days ago. I noticed it on my way to Donnelly ID and it was up quite a bit and dismissed it. Now seeing the second time and not hearing the fan locking up I knew what my problem is. When I first got it running the old thermostat was sticking a bit and would trip the fan off and on. After changing the thermostat it settled down and didn't use the fan but to climb Goose Creek grade. Typically hit the top of the grade it would unlock shortly after. Hey @AH64ID is there any turbo options for this 2006 with the wastegate solenoid? I'm pretty sure you can spit out the wheel sizes to this stock turbo. It makes a good solid 30 to 35 PSI depending on what the ECM does for that wastegate solenoid. Eventually I would like to step up and get something that flows a bit better (exhaust) than this turbo gets hot for just having +50 HP injectors. It almost another 200*F hotter than my 2002 at 65 MPH. I know the stock timing is pretty retarded too which is no help for EGT's.

Anything is possible but right now you proved the Quadzilla has internal issues with the boost fooler side. But yes double check the electric the best you can.

I've seen a 1st Gen truck run over 8 hours with no other accessories running. Yup if the batteries are junk the time is going to be pretty short. If you got good strong batteries you could go for hours. Like Beast (2002 Dodge) I've got all LEDs lighting in the truck and reduced my electrical loads by a bunch. Each bulb is like barely 500mA. Just a feel... Here is the front marker lights I'm using...

I've ran my AirDog 150 over 250k miles (17 years) before the pump motor failed (bearing failure). I've got a AirDog 165 GPH pump now its a 4th gen pump from AirDog and zero issues.

Add another to this list I just remember on my second cup of coffee. I need to go get a new fan clutch. I went to Lewiston to restock on my days off and never the less Thor is overheating now. I made the climb up about half way on Whitebird Grade which is 7 miles of 7% grade for the first half about 6% on the last half up. By the time I was about 2 miles from the top I back down to about 40 to 45 MPH and in 5th direct and the temp just held steady at about 230*F. Broke over the top and the temp fell off. No fan heard. No codes for fan clutch either. Then got down to Lewiston ID (about 750 above sea level). Then made the climb back up Winchester Grade again 7% grade. This time I barely made it to the top and the CHECK GAGES came on as I pulled off. (Hit the 240*F mark). Let it cool down for about 15 minutes then packed up and headed home. Same with heading back over Whitebird grade again barely made the top and below 230*F or so. Already changed the thermostat about a month ago. 190*F NAPA. I know its not the thermostat and no you don't here the fan kick on any more. Monday morning I need to call and get a fan clutch order and installed. Keep in mind the dry weight without the tools and tool boxes is 9,200 pounds. I'm closer to 10,000 pounds now. Thor is not a light by no means with a heavy steel flat bed, Two 8 foot tool boxes, and lot of steel tools on board.

Yes. Secret. When the battery voltage goes from 12.00 to 11.99 the voltage will drop to 8 and chime the CHECK GAGES light. In my truck the cigarette light is gone and I installed a dual USB port with volt gauge. It also shows the actual running voltage. No codes will be thrown till the batter voltage drops to near 10 volts then a low charging volt code will be thrown. After 8 volts the engine will die. None of the computers will function below 8 volts. I've got a 5A fuse on the blue wire. I've had the fuse work its way out and stop charging. Simply just squeezed the contacts slightly and re-install the fuse. Still in all the volt gauge will not be pointing at 14 any longer as soon as the fuse blows or in my case fell out. I've also got a 150A circuit breaker on the charge wire to the passenger battery. I've NEVER had that circuit breaker trip once yet. I've physically press the trip button and again the battery voltage drops from 14 (13.5 to 14.5 normally) to about 12 volts and continues to decline till either the circuit breaker is rest or the problem located. 431k miles and still rolling. The W-T ground wire mod and my PCM protection fuse has been working flawless for the last 2 to 3 years with no real issues.

Just showing me how old I am? Eh.... But thanks for the HF light and mag...