Mopar1973Man

Nope. Thor (2006 Dodge) I typically am about 2 to 5 under speed limit. (Speedometer is off) Not to mention the "The Last Job I'll Ever Need" I need to drive super slow in that neighborhood and make ZERO noise. The well to do neighborhoods are very touchy about loud diesel trucks. As for my 2002 it just sitting here parked most days. Try again... As for rust control the best thing I do is keep the vehicle washed down keeping the mud and salt washed off frequently. The longer mud is in contact with body metal the quicker the body starts to rust.

Sad but true you need to buy a power steering pump. There is no option that I know of to just purchase just the o-ring. Compression test will tell the full story. I don't trust blow by test being its possible to have one cracked piston and still pass the blow by test. Being that @jlweldingwas the one that proved that when he was fighting a miss fire problem years ago right on this forum.

Not good. Yup you might need an overhaul if the blow by is that bad. That would contribute to the hard starting as well with weak injectors.

At least you have a plug. Hopefully the tools to change it in case of leak.

I had mud flaps on my truck but I pulled them since it was piling the mud up between the flap and fender metal. Now add salt it will start to rot the metal pretty quick. Also the flaps did not do much for keeping stuff from hitting the bottom bed metal. The flaps would have to be long enough that they just about drag the ground. My 2006 has long flap they work pretty good but looking in the mirror those pull back pretty good in the wind.

Are you using an isolator? If so that could be the problem. Im using just a sintered metal snubber and it quick to respond. Mine look like below.

Yes. Photo is too big. Needs cake back your camera or use a resize app. Most cellphone create monster huge photos. I've had to scale back the allowed size so we do run out of hard drive.

Is it still slow?

I got the wash for the roof. Then the primer for the roof then the coating itself which like I said in 2 to 3 years started peeling off. I highly suggest talking to @JAG1 about a better product.

The RV dealer I got my RV from had done a few repairs with Eternal Bond and sadly to say it did not work I had to pick all that off and reseal it with white silicone which stop the entire leak. Right at the corner of the slide where the trim met at the corner and the water would weep past the Eternal Bond. When I repaired it I clean all the old Eternal Bond and butyl rubber and then injected the silicone right into the corner. Never leaked again. Just like all the marker lights on top same thing Eternal bond and water weeped past the sealant and started delam on the front and rear ends. Now resealed with silicone no longer an issue. I know most of you say no silicone. But it does work and hold up much longer. So far I've used Dicor roof sealants (JUNK!) I've got to re do my roof all over again because it only last a mere 2 to 3 years and now peeling off. @JAG1even suggested poly urethane seals for the next time for resealing the roof.

Just keep in mind about the starter brushes they will wear out about the life of two sets contacts. I've still got my OEM starter in the shop and need a set of brushes for the starter and new contacts it would be ready for an extended life now.

Keep your oil leaks to a minimum. Then keep all rubber clean of oil and fuel it will cause it to degrade faster. 431k miles and still got good engine mounts and the rubber is in good shape. I would figure that the engine just needs to be supported. If you remove the bolts from the bolt and the long bolt through the the mount it should lift out of the cradle its sitting in. Might need a long extension and wobble joint and impact gun and shoot most of them from the bottom. I know the driver side has quite a bit around it you could pull the ECM and fuel filter out and gain more room to getting the bolts out of the block. Starter is only 3 bolts and fairly easy to pull from under the truck. More or less remove what you need to gain working room and you should be able to get the mounts out.

Large pictures might be filter out... Server software being weird.

Also using a snubber, but I don't worry about the needle vale it can be open wide because the snubber will do its job. The valve is a safety cut off if there is a plumbing leak.

Some time you need to rely on live data. Then remove any add on like tuners to see if the tuner is at fault, which sometimes happens. Then at least you know what is at fault sensor, boost fooler or wiring. Like @dripley has been fighting the MAP sensor issue for awhile.

Good to hear at least the MAP sensor was a easy fix to the issue.

No. The pressure gauge line will get air in the line even after being bled. No. You need to tap the starter just briefly then it will start the lift pump prime cycle. Runs for about 25 seconds. Typically I crack 1, 3, and 4. Then crank it over till it nearly starts of the fuel can be seen from the lines. Then close them back up and startthe engine. Air just makes the fuel compressible. Since it can't reach 4,500 PSI it will never fire so you bled out 3 line and should make it capable of starting. Air is fine to pass through for priming purpose. I'm running on my 2002 Dodge DAP (Diesel Auto Power) +150HP injectors. (7 x 0.010) popped at 320 bar. Then on the 2006 Dodge I'm running +50 DAP injectors (Common Rail). I've had super good results with the Diesel Auto Power injectors I can say all injectors are built in house and bench tested before sale. I would say between +100 to +150HP injectors are very safe. The only give is the Quadzilla tuner I'm running is keeping my EGTs down low and economy up just a bit.

UPDATE So my first job was handling the property managers 1977 Ford F-250 400 CID that has been sitting for over 10 years. Carburetor Rebuild Replaced over 12 feet of fuel line Power washed the crud out the fuel tank. Hooked up a fuel filter at the fuel tank. Added a fuel pressure regulator. Changed spark plugs Changed upper and lower radiator hoses. Starter solenoid replaced New keys made for ignition lock. New ignition module Finally after some help from my good friend "Shawn Davis" we got it up and running yesterday and now I continue to now do all the fluid changes. Since it raining today I'm going to be at home clean up another mess. My first job for the Peterson Family is going to pull a 2 cycle engine from a Cushman Snow Machine. I've been told by Neal (Property Manager) that Peterson's have ordered a short block engine for this machine and should be here very soon. Compression is only a mere 80 PSI and the engine only runs for a small amount of time like 5 to 10 minutes then it will not run till it cools off again. Compression just too low to keep running.

I did that long ago. Now I don't even worry... Yes I had a low pressure light too and had to solder a ground wire to the brass fitting to make it work. Yeah some time the solder would fail and the ground would drop off. Not a good solution. Now my current solution is a ISSPro EV2 fuel pressure gauge with a USB programmable low pressure light. So I plug in the USB cable and I can flash the fuel pressure gauge to trip the low pressure light at 13 PSI. There is several other functions like lighting, optional aux relay that is programmable. etc. These are the best gauges you can get. Old setup DiPricol mechanical gauge and my low pressure light. Now the current setup... USB cable... Ready for programming...

Soon as I get free time been working 12 hour days. I'm pretty beat tonight.

Is the shaft linkage adjusted enough to allow the shift properly?

All timing is electronically controlled by the ECM. The P0216 code more or less means the injection pump timing piston is seized up in the bore. From here on out is replacement of the VP44. Sorry to say.

Just a tidbit for others. I just did new wheel bearings on the front of the 2006 Dodge. I ordered the NAPA fleet series bearings. They are coated to protect the metals. Needless to say I had the passenger side ABS made contact with the rotor. Yup ate the cable through one wire. I just swapped an old sensor back. The new one is repairable. For sure not like the 2002 ABS codes are stored and require a tool that can read and erase ABS codes. After the swap it reset and all lights are back off once again.

I guess I'll have to apply more force to get that shaft out. All I've done they typically just slide out. This one is acting like there is a clip or something holding the shaft from coming out. I've got joints for both sides now and a control arm bushing. Just gotta get the passenger side shaft out.

I just heard of people using Flex Seal for RV roofs. I would for sure look at that as an option.