Mopar1973Man

Put the filter minder to your lips and lightly suck on the filter minder nipple it takes very little vacuum. It actually measured in inches of water column. Just like a drink straw how much vacuum to pull few inches of water up a straw.

@W-T welcome back stranger...

Not to hijack... Just had a customer complain about her power steering leaking on her 96 Chevy truck. It was filled with ATF. Really common mistake.

When I last pulled my transfer case off my 2002 Dodge I resealed it with Grey RTV silicone and not seen a leak at all.

Normal here at home I can tow about anything and stay around 180*F towing but about 140 to 150*F empty truck. This includes climbing 7% grades for 7 miles. Now as for Arizona I make a simple heat shield out of a piece of sheet metal and two 4 inch exhaust clamps. Just tucked it between the NV4500 and the 4 inch exhuast. In Arizona with 110 to 120*F daytime temps and climbing a 7% grade it was just getting up to 200*F my alarm on my ISSPro is set for 225*F. After adding the heat shield it dropped roughly 30 to 40*F off the trans temp. I was able to stay in 5th gear and leave the cruise set for 65 MPH and no issues. Remember with me running 245's tires and my final ratio is 3.69:1 it way cooler than running 235's or 265's tires. This made a huge impact on trans temps as well.

Basically in a nutshell. Now notice the oil/silicone inside does the clutch action. If the fluid is lost the the fan clutch fails. This why after sitting and cooled the silicone/oil will settle to the bottom. So when fired up there will be a locked fan clutch for a short time in the morning then as the silicone/oil moves to the hub again it will unlock. This is totally NORMAL. It when you reach 210*F and the fan is not locking up then there is a issue.

I got a customer that called me asking about his clutch in his 94 Toyota. I went over to his place and hopped in the cab and could feel the pedal was super soft and like its not even pumping. I pumped the pedal up and could make a good shift. I knew at this point the hydraulics on the clutch were fried. The brake fluid was black in color. (day ends) Next day I'm down in town getting supplies for another job. Stopped at the local Chevron. This customer happen to be there. He was talking to guys at Chevron about changing the clutch hydros. My friend there was like I've never seen a Toyota clutch need to be replace. I was say you should have to replace the hydro's on it just re-bleed the system. So to make the customer feel better about all this I did. Needless to say it DID NOT WORK. The fluid that came out of the slave was like thin axle grease and very black. Nope did this 3 times no dice will not allow a shift into any gear. I told my customer just order and get the hydro's. Calls me up at about 2pm in the afternoon saying it won't fit. I pack up and haul back to town after change a few bits and pieces I got the master and slave installed. After bleeding it felt much much better. You can feel the clutch now and goes into gear really well for all forward gears. Now reverse there is a bit of shift movement so it ticks a bit before getting in. Customer was happy. Next time I'll let my ASE certified friend know... When the OEM clutch hydros have 336k miles, the fluid is black... Pretty sure the hydros are toast!

One of the few reasons I've never liked the CAD axle design. Any vacuum issues can and will leave to stuck without 4WD. Trust me I've been left stuck in deep snow and fighting to figure why the axle is not locking. They are right start at the cowl and check if there is good vacuum then work your way down to the 4 port switch and check again for good vacuum. Then move to the red vacuum lead and check again at the CAD axle. I've seen weird cases where the diaphragm is torn or small pin holes which makes it weak to pull in. I've seen bent vacuum motors that bind the shaft too. Make sure everything moves freely. Test also with the CAD removed from the axles to see if the fork is moving easy.

If you look there is only a fuse in between the fuel relay and the VP44. Which is the same fuse that powers the ECM, PCM and VP44 all share the same power source. (Red/white) Then the (brown/white) is the trigger to the relay. So my suggesting is change the #3 fuse in the PDC and then change the relay.

For sure not the turbo. I would look at the transmission and torque converter.

That Chevy held up good. Any accident you can walk away from is always a good thing. Sorry for the misfortune of having an accident but glad your not hurt. As for the build I was wondering how your going to do the doors.

Even after 431k miles I'm still running my OEM fan clutch. Even when mine goes out I will not buy a Cummins fan clutch. I know the fan clutch that was supplied by Dodge/Cummins is no longer available by the same manufacture.

Look at the old fan clutch and you can see the shaft seal leaked out the oil once the oil was gone the shaft seized up on the fan clutch. I've seen both locked up and free spin for failures. I've done it in the past where free spin ill drill two holes and bolt it solid (locked). This way you could drive it till you could get a new fan clutch.

Like last year I made the trip over to Mohave Valley AZ. Even with temps between 110 to 120F. No issues really. While down there I made a heat shield for the transmission and dropped transmission temps another 30 to 40 degrees even towing my 31 foot RV. Even when I last drove my truck last week it still started and ran fine just the driver side front of the gasket was only weeping engine oil. I didn't blow the compression seal nor was I mixing fluids.

Not exactly sure on my 2006 with gearing quite yet but it's dang close to what my 2002 is. I need to verify some stuff out. Needless to say it shows about ~2100 at 66 MPH. 2002 is exactly 2000 RPM at 66 MPH.

Like this...

Funny part is if you could convert to 2003 and up steering gear box, pump and hydrobooster then you could use ATF in the system. All Dodge trucks after 2003 use a Ford steering parts so it uses ATF fluid in the system. 2002 and back is all power steering fluid. Very common mistake people thinking they can interchange ATF and Power Steering fluids which you cannot. I've got a truck I've got to flush here in the near future because of the same mistake.

More like check valve guides. Valve guides that wear out will ruin the valve seals.

First problem final ratio is too low (3.25:1 to the ground). You need to consider change gear to 3.73 or bring down the tire size. (Optimal to the ground is 3.55 to 3.73). Even with 3.73 gears you'll be close but 3.41 to the ground. 4.10 gears will give you more room at 3.75:1 to the ground you could go up another. Current my 2002 Dodge is set up with 3.55 gears and 245/75 R16 tires giving me 3.69:1 for final gearing. This is totally optimal and very quick to accelerate. Timing start at 13* and ramp up +5* for each band.

Yup... That where I got my last set for a customers truck... https://piratejack.net/2771004-hydro-boost-repair-kit/ Also the only reason a hydrobooster will leak is from lack of power steering flushes. At 431,000 miles and still not leaking yet. Rule of thumb all fluids (axle lube, brake fluid, power steering, etc.) on the truck should be changed by 30,000 miles (48,200 km)

Fan clutch on 98.5 and 2002 are LEFT HANDED THREADS! To loosen is towards the driver side battery.

Very interesting... Thank you for the photo I think I've been in one of those but not sure.

Typically it about the engine load and the idle RPM. Typically the ECM aims for 800 RPM when the idle validation switch on the APPS is grounded. (Idle position). Now as the injector get older and more mileage the springs get weak inside and injectors start popping lower. This start to increase the duration of the injectors being open. Naturally the idle would rise so the ECM attempts at defueling that and pulling it down hence why the engine load start going down. Now once it hits 0% the ECM can no longer defuel any deeper and so the idle RPM start to rise up. ECM can't hit the 800 RPM target so the engine load is at 0% and idle speed continues to climb as the injectors continue to wear out. If you have a APPS issue and the IVS isn't getting ground signal at the moment of idle then the idle could be higher than the target 800 RPM being now the ECM is told to follow the APPS signal when the idle validation is not grounded. This is why I always suggest a Timbo APPS and ditch the entire voltage adjustment thing. Normal Idle RPM is 800 RPM +/- 10 Normal engine load is typically 5 to 15% of good injectors. Below 2% you on borrowed time and soon the injectors will be failing.

@dripley I've got the fan clutch wrench and the holder tool for the fan. Pretty cheap to add to your tool box. I'll pull it out later on and get a photo of it all.

I think I know what he means there other background noises you'll hear like a thumping noise, the turbine whistle, and other things depending on the setup.