Mopar1973Man

Right back to the injectors since there isn't any error codes present. Normally injectors are set between 300 and 310 bar. Most performance built injectors are 300 to 305 bar to help with flow and pintle lift. Now according to Dodge FSM your allowed +/- 250 PSI to 4500 PSI (310 bar). -250 PSI from 4,500 PSI is 293 bar. Then top end +250 PSI from 4500 PSI is 327 bar. Once you drop below 290 bar injector performance get larger droplet and typically not misting anymore but acting more like a squirt gun. It's impressive to go to a injector shop and watch your old injectors just squirt and, piss, leak, and not fire right. Then wonder why it still runs good. Another way I detect the injector life is look at the engine load of the live data if it near 0% engine load the ECM is attempting to defuel enough to hit 800 RPM. Some times you'll find the engine load at 0% and the idle is about 800 maybe as high as 875 RPM. This is what my factory stock injectors did at 150k miles. Still ran good, no smoke or anything. Had them test by DAP and they were below 280 bar and pissy. My idle was 875 RPM and 0% engine load. NOTE: Just remember as injectors wear out and the pop pressure falls this means the duration is increase because it opening longer from the time it starts to the time it closes again. This also means the injector timing is ADVANCED! This is why the idle increases because the duration is longer and amount of fuel is increase so the ECM will attempt to pull the fuel down to hopefully reach 800 RPM. After having those injector bodies inspected and then new 150 HP nozzles (7 x 0.010) put on and popped to 320 bar. I was idling a perfect 800 RPM again at about 12 to 13%. Now few years later I'm down to about 7% engine load so I'm about half life on the injectors. I've got some time left before getting too pissy. NOTE: As you see I opted for 320 bar (4,641 PSI) on my injectors but knowing that I'm making the injection event later I can bump the timing in iQuad App and make up for the retard timing of the pop pressure. Basically need about another 2 degree to be right. I don't wanna high jack but... You should see the amount of people running CR injectors upwards of 150k to 200k and the amount of engine damage they take on. I just met with a gent in McCall ID with a 2007 Dodge Ram and was wondering what to do. I got the hood open and screwed the oil cap and it shot out of my hand. Then the blow by at idle was so bad the cap would not even sit in the hole it just blow the cap off again. This is all injectors wash damage from injectors not being replaced as a set but one at a time. I've got a 2015 Dodge I'm got injectors order for which the truck is so bad now she can get the regen mode to clean the DPF and its slowing plugging up. The spray pattern is complete junk and creating tons of soot just keeping the DPF full. Injectors should be here soon. I've got a buddy down the road from me with a 1994 Dodge which his Dad ran the stock injectors for +400k miles. They were so crappy and wore out after dropping in +150 HP injectors it woke that truck up seriously. Lots of good pulling power now. Rolls cxoal but a little plate adjustment and AFC starwheel it will be really a clean truck. Injectors for ANY Dodge Cummins engine (6BT or ISB) should be changed EVERY 100K to 150K miles period. No questions asked...

I would guess at it and put it back together make an appointment with a alignment shop and have them set it properly.

Personally I would use CK-4 oil which is the current API Spec. I wouldn't suggest using any gasser oil unless it is also rated CI-4 or CJ-4 or CK-4. Then your fine.

100k to 150k you just need the change out injector they are wasted. Even though it still starts and runs fine.

Make your 1500 band a bit retarded so as your losing power the retard state of the 1500 will allow for building boost.

Bad fuse can do this.. Just seen a 1994 Dodge with both ground cables bad and watching the small ground to the fender get hot and smoke.

I've seen truck where the owner never done the band adjustments and have the wedge fall out.

I've seen CRACKED fuses do the same thing. The starter solenoid fuse is one of the square fuses. I've seen where you look at them and they look fine. But when you ohm test it the fuses is blown. Don't look blown by any means. I've had a local friend that could try and start the truck and then the fuse would heat up and separate at the crack. Do nothing for 20 to 30 minutes and then later on work just fine like your case. All I needed was a new fuse problem was solved. Like others said the starter solenoid contacts inside the starter will wear from arcing. Typically you'll hear the solenoid clack and starter doesn't spin. But being your losing all power I would start with the battery cables and then work towards the PDC and start checking the fuses. Use a ohm meter on the square fuses. Another one I had was a Jeep. The owner would hit the key and ZAP nothing. All the lights go out no dome light nothing. Then hook up jumper cables and nothing changed. Now after doing a feed wire voltage drop test I found the negative cable was rotten in the middle. After hooking my jumper cables between the negative post and the block the Jeep started and ran just fine. Change a negative cable and problem was solved.

I'll educate you... Then you can do the same thing. Since its only 105*F here today it isn't happening to quickly at this rate. Too damn hot period!

Oh trust me they did! When I ordered a manifold gasket the paperwork had all the specs in the box. At least for my 1996 Gasser it was in INCH pounds for the bottom of the manifold.

@Dynamic is just a phone call away. Phone number is at the top of the page. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

Bring your truck to me and I'll do the job and get pictures. Solution to that problem. Being I know how to make my ball joints last.

Wish the author would of been near me I would of fixed it the first time. I've seen this before as well when people ditch the old pump mount not knowing it a open hole to the block.

Timing makes huge difference in performance and smoke control. Then exhaust brake if your going to want twin your going to need in line exhaust brake not a turbo mounted exhaust brake.

Ball joint press from Harbor Frieght. Don't over load the press but with some hammer blows you can shock them out. Still like my previous method which I kind of tried. After using heat I had a ball joint explode spitting the ball stud out. Then burned a hole and relief cut the cap with a hacksaw and tap of a hammer it fell out.

Really not a whole lot to the valve body. I watch @Dynamic drill out my 46RE out of the 1996 Dodge and modify the shift firmness. This man is a genius when it comes to rebuilding 46RE 47RE or 48RE. Modified the clutch to add an extra friction and steel disc. All kinds of goodies.

Highly suggest not p-pumping unless your planning on racing. Lose all the dynamic timing. Not worth it you can build more power with a VP44 personally. Exhaust brake is huge and worth every penny. Brakes pads last upwards of 250k miles. Like the 2006 I've got has auto braking while in cruise control.

Little secret. If you have a torch burn the cap off off the ball joint. Then beat the ball stud out. Then use a hacksaw to relief cut the remaining cap and one small tap its out. (Off topic) I did this trick for the 2006 doing wheel joint I cut the trunion out of the shaft. Then pop the snap rings and beat each cap through the yoke. Easier than trying beat 2 caps back and forth. Took 15 minutes to change the u-joint.

Then you don't wanna hear I only paid 39 bucks for front ball joints and lasted over 250k miles and counting. Just cheap AC Delco joints.

Yup very addicting... bigger problem for me is which Dodge to drive. 1996, 2002, 2006?

Fuel map I use for 150 HP injectors is... 0 to 5 PSI is 80% to 100% (smoke control) 5 to 15 PSI is STOCK fuel 100% (cruise band) 15 to 30 PSI is 100% to 150% (power band) Now set the wire tap up for... Low Boost for 15 PSI this way the wiretap and CanBus climb together making some serious power. TPS minimum for 50% don't need the wiretap for normal driving. Now that 5 to 15 PSI stock power band allows for normal mountain driving providing plenty of power without pouring the coal to it. Above 15 PSI is all power band. This setup and a max of 29.5 degrees @ 3k RPM is what blew my head gasket. The power was very impressive.

Just set it for level zero. Then watch the timing value you can build a tune to mimic stock timing. Also level zero is stock (Quadzilla is disabled).

Double check the tone ring and be sure it's lined up with the sensor. Ive seen one member here that lost a carrier bearing and it shifted over to one side and was misaligned so no speed.

If they where studs then yes. Head bolts will just stretch more. This why you have to measure the total bolt length to verify if they can be used again. Biggest thing is make sure to use the limits on the iQuad. Warmup mode (at least 140F), boost limit (based on your turbo stock should be limited to 35 PSI), EGT limits (1200F suggested), etc. My mistake was reaching to far up in power with limits to high... EGT limit was set for 1400, no boost limit, warm up was set for 140. Basically from talking I built up too much drive pressure and lifted the head. Then coupled with high timing yup I blew the head gasket. Live and learn from my mistakes.

Torque wrench is very much required. Like Dodge 5.9L V8 Magnum engines are very low torque numbers.