Mopar1973Man

Actually its a bad crank sensor. Finally tossed a code couple days ago and refused to start. Thankfully I've got my new sensor sitting in the front seat.

Strange but true I've doing similar here. Mom used to use the dishwasher as a dish drying rack. The motor finally burned up last Nov. 2020. Ordered a new dishwasher and took 3 months to get it. Now I've got the new dishwasher installed. Now we are talking about new stove and oven and change the kitchen layout a bit and move things around and ditch a island stove and move it back to the wall. I got to admit you got a nice look cabin, and your wife is a happy camper.

I've got a friend just up the road with a CoE style Nissan ND. The box on the frame is gone but I went over and got the engine reprimed and it runs. Current owner is going to do a few repairs and get it ready for sale. It would be a wonderful flatbed firewood hauler. Possible to haul about 4 to 5 cords depending deck size and side board height. Similar design but in well poor shape of sitting in a yard for many years.

Yup your going to be doing what I'm doing already is pull the head off and having the head resurfaced and reinstalled with a new head gasket. Make sure to flush the entire coolant system afterwards and use fresh coolant. My first gasket was from lack of coolant flushes in that year and head curl. This time I'm pretty sure it was just pushed too far.

Yup I tried to run it also on Libre Office Calc and no dice. (Ubuntu Linux 20.04 and Libre Office Calc 6.4.6.2) Must be Licensed copy of Microsoft Excel.

I'm not that foolish to leave a belt in service that long. Typically they get changed out about 50k miles. Again in all the vehicles I've owned I've never broke a belt. Like your suggesting I've carried a belt for awhile in under the back seat just in case. Finally getting tired of moving it out of my way all the time. Even in the shop I've got 2 old belts on the shelf and never used any old belt because a belt broke. Now like a lots of vehicles I've worked on typically the belt breaks because there is another issue. Pulley bearing, accessory pulley bearing failed, etc. During my inspections I'll pull the belt and check all bearings in all pulleys. Like the last job I went on was a 1996 Ford F-250 7.3L diesel the vacuum pump bearing gave up and cause the belt to be shredded from misalignment of that failed bearing. Again this is not a belt failure but a bearing failure which is more common than just out of the blue belt breaking. with these truck and the spring loaded tensioner its not like the past where belts broke from over tightening or overly loose (burn the belt). There is just somethings you can never plan on. Like @JAG1 travelling with @IBMobile and travelling a long grade without a exhaust brake and get the brakes hot and then end up later cooking the grease out of the front unit bearings. This is not a bearing failure but look at the cause. Lots of weight on the truck, no exhaust brake, and auto transmission. In this case the long downhill without a exhaust brake was the recipe for heating the brakes up and cooking the bearing grease out. Just like @IBMobile came out here and spent a week at my place. Left my place headed north and made it on the other side of Riggins, ID and the VP44 died. IBMobile already had a belt driven lift pump. Does that mean we all gotta carry a VP44 in the back seat? No. Again it just one of things you can exactly plan for or test to see the condition of the pump. If you got error codes or performance issue I would suggest planning a trip till all codes and performance issues are resolved. Kind of like the 2006 here. I didn't want it driven with injectors that are filling the crankcase with fuel. Then a long list of error codes. Now the only code is a crank sensor code. Yup got the sensor in the front seat. Another one is I typically use a degreaser and power wash the engine and transmission down so you can see if there is any fluids leaking from anywhere. Again another example is my 2002 Dodge with the head gasket. I cleaned it up and took out for a run and verified the oil was for sure coming from the front drivers side corner.

Got busy on this and just about got the head pulled off last night. I did a bit of testing before pulling apart. I retorqued the head and made a few runs after power washing the front. It for sure the driver side front of the head is leaking oil out. Being its still push oil out just pull it down completely. I just about the head off last night but I have all my bolts on the cowl then realized I've got to pull the cowl cover off and push out the last 4 push rods. Then start with pulling studs. Everything else is already pulled of.

Hey gang... The 2006 Dodge I've got has a stock stereo and the input jack is broken. I'd love to hear what some of you are using for stereos in the 3rd gen body being a double DIN is typically used. I'm looking for a quality Bluetooth unit that can handle at least two mobile devices at once. Like the Kenwood in my 2002 allows @Wet Vetteand myself to go somewhere if either phone rings its hooked and goes through the stereo. DVD video is not a requirement. Backup camera if available I would take it.

Remember gauge functions are based on CCD network. If the CCD network is having issues then gauges will act weird as well. I would contact the rebuilder and have them revisit the PCM being its the source of the CCD network.

Yup the 2006 Dodge has got a good front end clunk. When turning tight in parking lots and sharp corners. I want to pick you guys minds to get heads up on 3rd gen front end suspension and common issues. I'll admit the truck has a 2 inch leveling kit. Really like to pull that out as well being it squats pretty bad with a trailer hitched up.

After driving over 430k miles... You understand that majority of what you guys are packing is unneeded. If you done your maintenance like change the belt before you leave there is no need for a old belt under the back seat. Coast to Coast is roughly 2,500 to 3,500 miles. Around the globe is somewhere at 24,901 miles. Then to the moon 238,900 miles roughly, then round trip 477,800 miles. I'm almost home. I don't pack a ton of tools and parts. I pack a bug out bag so I can abandon the vehicle and walk to safety or help. All the tools and parts are just space and weight you gotta haul. Even when I went to Arizona I did a mod down there to help trans temps in 120+ temps. In all the miles I've traveled... Majority of the failures I couldn't repair in the field. NEVER had a explosive tire failure. Yes I've had flats from nails and other small debris. NEVER had a fan belt break. NEVER had an overheat condition. 1 Lift pump failure. 250k miles on the AirDog. Broke the main shaft of the transmission no road side repair could be done. Broke the smaller 5th gear and ate both gears. No road side repair possible. Still drove it home. Alternator shorted out and wiped out the PCM. No roadside repair possible.

BHAF is way better than most filter and given a bad name... But they do flow more than enough for our trucks.

Thanks I'll give that a look and check other things like bearings (wiggle test).

Being I normally deal with mostly 4WD trucks out here. @Jthor truck has the driver side tire wearing on the outside shoulder only. I've been thinking about it and want to verify my thoughts with others here. The outside shoulder of the tire is wearing this is what I think... Excessive camber on that side Wheel bearings are loose and need repacking. I'm hoping others could chime in with their knowledge to verify this.

Anyone willing to share what they have installed for stereos in there 3rd Gen trucks? The factory stereo the CD player isn't working and there isn't any FM stations out here. It's time to replace... So what are you guys running for stereos in your 3rd Gens?

Anyone that has a tachometer gauge acting strange and showing unusually high RPM speeds and bouncing. Make sure the tone wheel on the crank is clean and no grease and grime in the tone wheel. Then make sure ther sensor is in good condition and the gap is correct. After I got the truck fired up it had a very wild tach and jumped all over the gauge randomly. After I power washed the engine 99% of that went away. Now showing correct numbers and no longer jumping wild high numbers like banging 4.5k randomly.

Like all my failures there was nothing you can do. First transmission failure I broke the main shaft in a NV4500. Towed Home. AirDog 150 finally wore out at 300k miles. Towed home. 5th gear disappeared. 350k miles and drove home in 4th gear. Alternator shorted out PCM. Towed home. There is no amount of tools or parts you could haul with you. Like most of you worry about the belt. In 431k miles of ownership on the 2002 Dodge I've never broke a belt. I've never had a blow out. All mine required just being towed home and sending parts out ot be repaired. Again if you doing your inspection you can see the failure coming. Glitter in the oil, loose part, shifting weird, charging issues? All my failures there was nothing I could repair on the highway.

Check fluids and do a inspection of everything. Brakes, frame, suspension, etc.

Number 2 is my guess.

As for both of my trucks... 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 with a BD exhaust brake. You can toggle on the exhaust brake and the compressor fires up and closes the valve at a idle. This truck has auto exhaust brake so if your target speed is being exceeded then the exhaust brake comes on. Warm up it will hold the exhaust brake closed till 170*F then it opens automatically. 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 with a Jacobs exhaust brake. You can toggle on the exhaust brake and the vacuum is applied and closes the valve at a idle. But anyways both trucks are capable of closing the valve at an idle. As for the air supply you need a reservoir tank. Then the compressor will automatically fill the tank and then shut off when the pressure is high enough. Then you have plenty of air supply for tires or other things. Yup I've got to install this 2.5 gallon tank on a BD exhaust brake on a Duramax this weekend.

Just like the Valair dual disc in the 2006 Dodge is a top of the pedal engagement. Yes I can adjust the pedal a little bit that hyper-extending is real and can happen. But on the 2006 its a royal PITA to adjust with that stupid plastic pin to push out.

Granted and understand. Eventually I'll get things sorted out.

CANBus connector with weather cap in place. Looks exactly like what my truck is setup for with a Quadzilla plugged in there.

Yes your are correct. 2006 Dodge will be be mobile shop. (223k miles) My 2002 I'm going to turn back to my dream truck. (431k miles)

Just means more articles for the 3rd gens.