Mopar1973Man

If you look there is only a fuse in between the fuel relay and the VP44. Which is the same fuse that powers the ECM, PCM and VP44 all share the same power source. (Red/white) Then the (brown/white) is the trigger to the relay. So my suggesting is change the #3 fuse in the PDC and then change the relay.

For sure not the turbo. I would look at the transmission and torque converter.

That Chevy held up good. Any accident you can walk away from is always a good thing. Sorry for the misfortune of having an accident but glad your not hurt. As for the build I was wondering how your going to do the doors.

Even after 431k miles I'm still running my OEM fan clutch. Even when mine goes out I will not buy a Cummins fan clutch. I know the fan clutch that was supplied by Dodge/Cummins is no longer available by the same manufacture.

Look at the old fan clutch and you can see the shaft seal leaked out the oil once the oil was gone the shaft seized up on the fan clutch. I've seen both locked up and free spin for failures. I've done it in the past where free spin ill drill two holes and bolt it solid (locked). This way you could drive it till you could get a new fan clutch.

Like last year I made the trip over to Mohave Valley AZ. Even with temps between 110 to 120F. No issues really. While down there I made a heat shield for the transmission and dropped transmission temps another 30 to 40 degrees even towing my 31 foot RV. Even when I last drove my truck last week it still started and ran fine just the driver side front of the gasket was only weeping engine oil. I didn't blow the compression seal nor was I mixing fluids.

Not exactly sure on my 2006 with gearing quite yet but it's dang close to what my 2002 is. I need to verify some stuff out. Needless to say it shows about ~2100 at 66 MPH. 2002 is exactly 2000 RPM at 66 MPH.

Like this...

Funny part is if you could convert to 2003 and up steering gear box, pump and hydrobooster then you could use ATF in the system. All Dodge trucks after 2003 use a Ford steering parts so it uses ATF fluid in the system. 2002 and back is all power steering fluid. Very common mistake people thinking they can interchange ATF and Power Steering fluids which you cannot. I've got a truck I've got to flush here in the near future because of the same mistake.

More like check valve guides. Valve guides that wear out will ruin the valve seals.

First problem final ratio is too low (3.25:1 to the ground). You need to consider change gear to 3.73 or bring down the tire size. (Optimal to the ground is 3.55 to 3.73). Even with 3.73 gears you'll be close but 3.41 to the ground. 4.10 gears will give you more room at 3.75:1 to the ground you could go up another. Current my 2002 Dodge is set up with 3.55 gears and 245/75 R16 tires giving me 3.69:1 for final gearing. This is totally optimal and very quick to accelerate. Timing start at 13* and ramp up +5* for each band.

Yup... That where I got my last set for a customers truck... https://piratejack.net/2771004-hydro-boost-repair-kit/ Also the only reason a hydrobooster will leak is from lack of power steering flushes. At 431,000 miles and still not leaking yet. Rule of thumb all fluids (axle lube, brake fluid, power steering, etc.) on the truck should be changed by 30,000 miles (48,200 km)

Fan clutch on 98.5 and 2002 are LEFT HANDED THREADS! To loosen is towards the driver side battery.

Very interesting... Thank you for the photo I think I've been in one of those but not sure.

Typically it about the engine load and the idle RPM. Typically the ECM aims for 800 RPM when the idle validation switch on the APPS is grounded. (Idle position). Now as the injector get older and more mileage the springs get weak inside and injectors start popping lower. This start to increase the duration of the injectors being open. Naturally the idle would rise so the ECM attempts at defueling that and pulling it down hence why the engine load start going down. Now once it hits 0% the ECM can no longer defuel any deeper and so the idle RPM start to rise up. ECM can't hit the 800 RPM target so the engine load is at 0% and idle speed continues to climb as the injectors continue to wear out. If you have a APPS issue and the IVS isn't getting ground signal at the moment of idle then the idle could be higher than the target 800 RPM being now the ECM is told to follow the APPS signal when the idle validation is not grounded. This is why I always suggest a Timbo APPS and ditch the entire voltage adjustment thing. Normal Idle RPM is 800 RPM +/- 10 Normal engine load is typically 5 to 15% of good injectors. Below 2% you on borrowed time and soon the injectors will be failing.

@dripley I've got the fan clutch wrench and the holder tool for the fan. Pretty cheap to add to your tool box. I'll pull it out later on and get a photo of it all.

I think I know what he means there other background noises you'll hear like a thumping noise, the turbine whistle, and other things depending on the setup.

Would you mind shooting a picture of those land rovers. I'm very curious what it looks like.

Wait till you upgrade turbos and there is no silencer ring option, then BHAF added then it just there you can't reduce the noise very much.

Don't bother with a Cummins... I would do wagner or four seasons.

I'm also set for 320 bar on 7 x 0.010 injectors. Smoke free till the wire tap hit then a poof and clear again. Also running HX35/40 hybrid turbo (60/60/12).

Let me clean up your Windows link to... https://www.simplyfilter.com/AIRHOUSING-p/ah1139.htm Linux doesn't copy all the adlink crap.

@NIsaacs could you list that housing you go a link or something I'm curious...

My filter minder NEVER moved even after 150k miles of dirt road travel.

Only thing I can say very very rare for fuel tanks to explode. First the tank has to be steel and not soldered like the old 70's. Then the new fuel tanks are simply ABS and typically the plastics get hot and the fuel just drains out. Since I completed Fire Fighter One and Fire Fighter Two, plus wild-land training. Even Propane tanks don't exploded typically. they just vent off. I've only seen one time where a extremely hot house fire that was enough to cause a propane tank to explode. As for vehicle fuel tank they are designed with weaken so when in accident then the tank will fail in a minor fire typically. Like most of the newer fuel caps are plastic also if the filler neck got hot it would shot the cap like a pea in a straw. As for exploding car fires in all the years chasing vehicle fires never have I see a fuel tank explode. This includes from hybrid cars, to old chevy pickups, and full sized semis truck with over 200 gallons of diesel. Just doesn't happen like the movies. Fuel tank gone... Take notice the ground around the truck is not burnt. Tank got hot and drop it contents and wicked and burned under the truck.