Mopar1973Man

Problem is you need a good amount of low end retard to spool the turbo. This is done by retarding the timing more flame and expanding gases are sent to the turbo and get it spooled up. Now when your spooled up and get the boost building now you can switch over to high timing to burn the fuel more complete. This now brings the flame front more down the cylinder wall if you over advance. Funny part is you really do see the engine oil temp jumps. The other thing is don't drop the wire tap in too low. Like I'm running 15 PSI before wire tap jumps in. Totally smokeless being the turbo is spooled good, CANBus is starting to rise to its end (my tune stops at 125% on CANBus), once the wiretap jumps in the tires are really starting to want to spin.

P0216? if so the VP44 is done. The timing piston is physically jammed in the pump and can't get the desired timing in the allotted time. Smart S03 is NOT the cause. 4 ways to kill a VP44... Low fuel pressure (14 to 20 PSI optimal) High AC noise (Less than 0.05 volts optimal) Poor Filtration Poor Lubricity (Greater than 420 HFRR lubricity score) Your most likely a P0216 code and that is typically cause by low lubricity since the piston is most likely be galled up and stuck hence the code. So this why I've done the 2 cycle oil study years ago.

I wanted to share some of my secrets im still learning about Quadzilla timing. I'm finding that you can start as low as 13° on the 1.5k band. This really does build way bottom end power. Im still running +4.5 step up to the next. I was playing with my economy tune and when I drop every band by -1° it really did make my truck want to rip the tires off. Boost builds super fast. Now keep in mind my injectors 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar. Then ive got winterized fuel and daytime weather of barely 40°F. Stepping up to 14° or 15° in the 1.5k really took the power down for me under current fuel and temperature. As for my summer tune as the winterized fuel came on really start making it buck and pop in the 3k realm which is a sign of over advancement. This why I shift every down 1°. Originally I started at 15° and +4.5 step up worked good in the summer with LOW cetane and warm weather. As the winterized fuel starts it slowly raising the cetane hence why my summer tune starts bucking in the upper RPMs. Then today coming back from town I stopped and dropped that 1.5k to 13° and step up +4.5 now it jumps up to 15 PSI of boost, wire tap jumps in and it feels like a continuous power all the way very smooth and pulls so hard in 3rd I could hear the tires giving in and starting skip and spin. Remember neither the Quadzilla or ECM cannot sense cetane changes so when the tune just don't have the power because cetane change some times its best to try a bit of retard. Lower the cetane and warm weather the more you can advance timing.

Heck even I'm running 60/60/12 with 500 HP.

gotta keep the family together...

Good to hear. I heard from a few members that they haven't seen you in awhile. I took it apon myself to just dive in and send you a text message. Still love your response.

Wiped out... lots of carbon.

Ahhh... Just thinking about it. Not much a person can do for prelube other than pull the fuel pump relay. Cranking over has little load per say vs. running with 30 pounds of boost pull a trailer. Starter will turn in over slower than idle.

Not worth it. Way too much work to access the oil pump to pre-lube. Personally I would just change oil, fill it up and start it up. Leave it idle till warmed up a bit. (100 to 140F).

80 PSI will carry a total of 3,042 x 4 = 12,168 pounds. 4,000 pounds over the rating of a 2500 truck. Again 60 PSI will carry just over 9,000 pounds. Why make the ride crappy?

Yeah... Gas is about 123k BTUs where Diesel is 137k BTUs per gallon.

Yup... Love towing... Five one-ton hay bails.

Hooked like a addict... I've got both 5.9L V8 and 5.9L Diesel... Always reminds me that I need to fix the Cummins when I start driving the Lil' Red...

Full article including dual pressure math...

Gotta double check both sets of bus wires... CCD SCI If you look at the wire map above those wires need to be good shape. I'm currently trying to fix my OBDII plug. I wanted to capture some data for another gent but my port is no longer connecting to Innova tool I've got or any tool. Last time it was one wire push out for the SCI bus.

I've seen brand new pumps fail right out of the box. Not to give bad press to any vendor but yeah it does happen. I just had a brand new pump kick out the P1689, P0252 and a few other ocdes. This is one reason for finding out the source of where the pump was rebuilt. I typically go with vendors that sell fully bench tested VP44 with only new PSGs. It takes 3 hours to calibrate and flash a new PSG.

Spinning isn't winning... This where my weight base tire pressures really shine. Basically weight out your axles and then do a bit of math on them. For example my front axle is scaled at 4,440 pounds... Total truck weight 7,300 pounds. Tires - 245/75 R16 Hankook ATm rated for 3,042 pounds at 80 PSI Load Range E's. (4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,042 = 0.72 x 80 = 58.3 PSI in the front tires. Then the rear at scaled at 2,860 pounds. (2,860 / 2) = 1,430 / 3,042 = 0.47 x 80 = 37.6 PSI in the rear tires. Now if you want more traction drop 5 PSI again and the softer tire will bite in more. 99% of people run match pressure front and rear which is actually wrong as you can see there is 7,300 pounds worth of truck 60% of the weight on the front axle. Only 40% on the rear axle so to keep the traction the rear tires have to be soften up a bunch to make them stick. Like this summer I was trailer towing so I was 60 PSI all 4 tires and easy to break the tires loose. Now back to 50 PSI in the front and 35 PSI in the rear and she is sticky! It will hold the shock of the turbo smacking 49 PSI on 245/ 75 R16 tires. No loss to softer tires either... MPG is unchanged. Just for fun... 60 PSI in all four tires will hold the GVWR of 8,800 pounds. 60 / 80 = 0.75 x 3,042 = 2,281 x 2 = 4,563 per axle. x 2 axles = 9,126 pounds at 60 PSI in all 4 tires! Just to show most people over inflate there tires hence lack of traction...

So you want about 19° to 20° at 2,000 RPM in a cruise state. Then about 14° in powered state. Being your injectors are stock pop then you going to need a little extra timing. 13° (1,5k), 17° (2k), 21° (2.5k), 25° (3k), 26° (MAX) would be a good starting point. This will give good launching power and spool quick. Max Load Timing Offset set for 3°. Then the Low PSI timing Reduct for 5° Scaling for 50%. Light throttle timing 2° and set your light throttle load so you can hold 65 MPH on flat ground. (mine is 21%) might need more...

I've started that a long time ago but now my life is about getting job done in a timely manner. I need to get back to doing videos of stuff. I've got a very expensive camera I bought a long time ago. This is the camera I typically use for documenting articles and doing videos. Lots of functions and abilities. Like doing the LED bulb pictures I was able to make the shutter speed faster so the bulbs don't was out the photo. Then my current phone Samsung S10+ has a stellar camera and video recorder. The shame is my magnetic mount on my dash doesn't aim the camera at me like my old Gooseneck stand did. I use this for quick photos for post... I've used the video mode on this camera and even has slow-mo so you can really burn up the memory and make some huge video files.

Welcome to the family... Like you I've owned a few Dodge's... 1972 Dodge Power Wagon 1973 Dodge Charger SE 1976 Dodge Power Wagon 1977 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome 1978 Dodge Magnum XE 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins

Photo please I'm curious of what that looks like?

The last one I fired up I did nothing to. I had been standing in a field for 4 or 5 years. We installed a set of batteries. Crank on it a bit to get the fuel up and oil pumping. Pulled the air filter and gave it a shot of starting fluid lit it off. Ran fine. Couple days later had him drive it to my house and installed a VP44. No start hot issue and P0216 code.

Just put the relay in another empty hole. It will baffle most.

Easy.. pull the fuel pump relay.

Little lunch break. My last bolt and the battery pack on the impact gun died. Man even with experience of the donor removal its still a major PITA. Going to be fun installing the donor.