Mopar1973Man

Exactly!

I would have to refer you to @Dynamiche's our site transmission guru. He should be able to tell us why the torque convert is cycling all the time on you. Jon Elford is a good guy. He's built my 46RE to be pretty bulletproof for 5.9L V8 gasser. Even when last winter my 1996 Dodge was dropping to first gear randomly he had the answer. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

Cold mornings (< 32*F)... Mine will act like it locked up for about 30 seconds and then unlock and the oil moves to the reservoir in the hub. Normal spring,summer and fall it just spin loose. Still factory OEM fan clutch and still fully locked typically by 210*F. The rest of the time free spins.

Air in the hydraulic system? Have you tried to bleed the clutch out again. Pull it all out as a full piece. Then hang the reservoir high and let it all hang. Now quickly press the clutch slave in rapidly and hard and hold for a few seconds. Then slowly release the pin back out. As you press it in you quickly pushing air upwards to the reservoir to get out. Then when you pause you allow the air to continue up as far as possible. Then slowlly letting out the slave pin allows to reload the slave cylinder without pulling air back down. Do this about 5 to 10 times and you should be ready to install again and work better.

The whole thing behind the rake is so you can carry a load without your headlight shining in the sky because its swatting in the rear. Any leveling kit you put on the the rear will sag down when loaded. I've been up close to the 26,000 pound limit on my registration of my plates. Here I am with GCW of ~17,300 pounds, and about 62 foot long total. Sitting level. (Nevada 2020) Another... My truck is always level towing. No need for lift in the front. Level hauling 2 cords of firewood... Another hauling hay... Five 1-ton bails that's 10,000 pounds just in hay on a bumper pull car trailer.

Vacuum controlled. The door motor is on the passenger side near the kick panel you might see it. You would have to apply vacuum to the side that pulls the door closed.

There is a bunch of pre-made tunes in the download area. Take a peek...

Ok. The only thing I can think of output speed sensor is goofy. Possibly rear axle speed sensor.

Alternator can generate any power with the field lead unhooked.

No. iQuad V2 software is way different.

I was talking to a gent today about this and he was suggesting a air bag system for people that tow heavy constantly to have a independent air controller for left and right in the cab. Makes the best towing when you long hauling. You can adjust on the fly to smooth out rough patches. For people just once in awhile.. Shock would be the first stop. Kind of like myself I tow but not daily. Hence why I don't have air bags...

Not to hijack... Matter of fact. I just got me a local guy (J. Stewart) that is retired and willing to do alignments and custom alignments for lifted Dodge Truck and he lives right in Riggins, ID. I told him if I had any that needed help I would send them. He dropped off a Chevy A/C for me to look at... His story was of a Chevy car that had alignment issue. The owner was a very obese lady. He was the only one that was capable of customizing the align for the offset of weight to make it right. All the shops were using factory numbers which won't work. Same applies to the truck when you lift you change everything so you have to customize the alignment because it no longer factory height.

Personally I think it still the alternator. The only thing I can suggest is measuring while your driving and see if the AC noise is rising while under load. The only thing that causes the AC noise is a alternator. If you pull the field lead and test drive again it should be normal.

How I know this I managed to destroy my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon with a lift kit and manage to eat ball joint for lunch, tie rod failures very common. I made myself a promise I'd never lift or modify my new truck. Ever since I made that promise I've NEVER had any steering issues. Keep the geometry correct. In a mere 100k miles I managed to ruin that 1972 Dodge to the point I use it for the trade in on my current 2002 Dodge.

Did you test your current alternaotr for AC ripple? The ground wire mod will not fix a bad alternator.

Not true. I'm completely factory height, no lifts, had my front axle aligned back at 350k with my first set of tie rods. My truck has always had good lane holding. Hold center extremely well. At 300k I replace my stock steering box for a quick ratio. (Don't add one if over 31" tires) You need o use a standard ratio box because of the wide wheel this give better ratio to pulling wide tires. Since I'm running 245's stock tire size I've never had steering issues, death wobble or anything. Again the geometry is correct and no issues to report as I passing 421k miles. If it not handling well then the geometry is not right. Factory power steering pump (Never replaced) Ball joints replaced at 180k miles and still going on these. (241k miles and counting - Cheap RockAuto) Steering box replaced at 300k miles and install Blue top quick ratio (Input shaft seal damage by rust) Stock Track Bar is about 150k miles to change. No death wobble ever! Truck below...

Won't work. For one there is large drain holes on the cowl that will draw in air. The cowl filters don't capture fine dist just large debris. Like I gleen this knowledge from watching older gent in Rhode Island try and keep mice out of his truck. The biggest entry is the HVAC case to the cowl. He was stuffing stainless pot scrubbers in every hole he could. There is just no way to keeping the debris and dust out of the system. The only thing I can suggest is run MAX A/C when your running dirt roads or super dusty conditions.

Are you hauling heavy commonly? I would consider air bags possibly to aid in suppression of the bounce. I would consider having a in-cab controller for the air bags so you can inflate or deflate as the road condition require. We've got a few old instates and concrete highways too. I've ran both Rancho's and now KYB shocks. Both are good shocks and help with bounce some what. Most here will jump for the Bilstein's shocks.

Most likely not. You not lift off the axle but pushing the axle downwards which turns the caster neutral. Ive seen several lifted truck and the steering just purely sucks. Wanders quite a bit more. Because for the lift and caster being neutral or not correct. Most don't even take it in to have the caster angle reset. Most whine about the poor steering, problems with darting, poor lane holding, a few months later. I seen a shop that installed a 2 inch lift on a Ford and watch the mechanic use a come-a-long to pull the axle over enough to hook up the track bar. Then just seeing how far the axle caster angle changed is rather note worthy. After it was done, I drove it and not impressed the entire handling was change for the worst. @JAG1 just pulled his 2 inch out and return to 1 inch lift and made the road handling much better. Again he never aligned afterwards and never correct the caster angles. He did have a adjustable track bar. He had the thrust angle correct. Biggest thing is returning the geometry to the axle. If you going to lift the front then make sure the geometry is returned and possibly tweak so the steering and handling is corrected.

Another way to look at it... 238k miles to the moon. It's 476k to the moon and back. 421k miles I'm almost home. @dripleyhas over 500k miles. There is another one past 800k miles too. He's closer to two trip to the moon and back. (952k 2 laps)

Just o be clear on my design... Tap point -> Needle Valve -> Snubber -> 5 foot air Brake line -> Fuel pressure sensor. Tap point is best at the stock filter bottom. This gives a bit of distance from the pulses coming out of the VP44. Also there is typically a air bubble trapped in the lid so the filter is a good suppressor of the pulses. Mine is in between the stock filter and the VP44. Then the needle valve is a bit spendy. WH6820 from NAPA. The snubber can be bought at ISSPro. Then Air Brake line is fuel and oil resistance and will no get brittle like nylon oil pressure line. I used PTC (push to Connect) fittings for the tubing. This is better than compression ferrules. Again got those at NAPA. Injection pump makes a lot of pulses. Being every time the rotor fills the pressure drop as the rotor closes and pumps the fuel to the injector then the pressure in the line rises. Then as it opens again it drops to fill the rotor again. Like putting your ear next to a chainsaw muffler running. Now move your ear way from the saw its bear-able. Drop ear protection on (snubber) now move away from the chain saw 5 feet it not as loud isn't it? Distance and a muffling device is what quiets the pulses down with distance allows the pulse to fade.

Washable anything is bad idea. Every time you wash the media you break down the media and not ot mention washed incorrectly deposits dirt on the wrong side of the filter for when its dry again it is inhaled by the engine. Washable filters are extremely bad idea. I've seen several dusted out vehicles ruined early in life. BHAF some claim do not flow enough air which I call BS. I'm at 500 HP last time I had a BHAF with my filter minder it never moved. Now if oyu place the filter minder to your lips and pull a very light vacuum you'll find that it only mere inches of water column to move the disc. To this day mine has never moved even after 150k miles of dirt road. After 400k miles I quit putting the filter minder in because its just not making ANY restriction on air to even move the filter minder. 421k miles and still twisting...

Yes. These truck level out when the load is applied to the bed. The rake is so there is ample room for the truck to swat down and still carry the load without bottoming out. Be aware your going down a very difficult road now. Make sure to get adjustable control arms, adjustable track bar and then have the caster redone in a alignment shop and then also have them check the thrust angle. As you lift the front axle the control arms are too short and the caster turn more neutral steering center will be lost. Then with the fixed length track bar you thrust angle will be wrong because the axle will be towards the driver side more. If you do, never tow. It will put your headlight in everyone faces. (one thing I hate about lift kits.)

Let me PM my idea...

Because of the 24V powered I'm going to bet part of the PCM is burned up if there is a Dodge PCM used.