Mopar1973Man

All electric sender MUST NOT be install right at the VP44 it will beat the sensor to death every time. You must remote mount and plumb them. The water hammer pulses at about 600 times a second so the distance is added for that to fade out. Like yelling out side you can be heard good at a short range bit a mile and farther away it could be hard to heard some one yelling. The other sensor here in my boost pressure. The reason for this if I need to test any sensor I can place a tee in the line and hook up mechanical gauge and test the sensor for accuracy. Mine are located on the fender. There is 6 feet of 1/8" air brake line to the snubber is installed at the tap point. I'm using a sinstered metal snubber. I do have also a cut off valve for safety. This has been working now for over 10 years no issues. Same sensor and never been replaced.

Welcome to the family...

This is why I do not suggest AGM or sealed batteries. There is no way of doing this equalize charge on any AGM or sealed battery. Even my solar system does this same task with raising the battery voltage above operational voltage and continues to run till the set time expires. Basically you looking to increase a 12 volt battery to at least 15.5 volts and hold it till the charge amperage drops to near zero. This will signal the completion of the equalize charge. Oh yeah 8 years on my current batteries still ticking WalMart... I also cheat and use the solar system to do my equalize charging. I hook up battery cables to two 6 volt batteries and then hook up to the 12 volt battery. Then set the solar system for equalize and let her rip... Battery goes along for the same ride. After all that I typically check the electrolyte before make sure there is enough electrolyte to start the process and then again checking afterwards. Do not top off cells full before the charging typically the electrolyte will rise or expand during the charge process. A full, weak cell could over run be aware. Again... WARNING: Do Not Equalize any AGM or sealed batteries! EXPLOSION will occur! It will cause battery damage by venting too much moisture from the electrolyte.

Few bad apples doesn't always mean the company is bad. I've had two trip to Auto Computer Specialist. My own alternator had a short on the blue wire side and it cooked out the PCM so bad if fact I required a full replacement since the circuit board disappeared. New unit was flashed and returned to me in 7 days. My second trip was a 2012 Ram 2500 with a weird issue of going brain dead. No nothing... Sent it in and had it repaired. Returned and worked for a short while. Then found out nothing wrong with the ECM but something in the wiring was bad. CANBus issues.

Like myself I ended up with a membership used turbo the bearing were gone. Grabbed a set of bearing and rebuilt the turbo and now still using it years later.

Got a boost gauge? I'm going to ask did you install a boost elbow on the wastegate line? If not the wastegate will open at 19 PSI. Also Quadzilla only reads the MAP sensor like on my truck the Quadzilla report my max boost is 67-69 PSI but actually it only 47-49 PSI on the gauge.

The bad side to the EGR... The fact is you just recirculating exhaust back into the air mixture in the cylinder to hopefully reduce the peak flame temperature which will make the NOx less. Bad part id the amount the of exhaust used and the amount of plugging of the manifold is a big issue.Tuner do exist on turning off the EGR software to prevent the use of the EGR all together without removing all that system.

Even my 8 year old WalMart batteries went to Mohave Valley and spent nearly 3.5 weeks there. No issues with hot summer heat or starting. Just the factory sized batteries no need for buy huge over size industrial batteries. Thes have gone from freezing cold at -40*F in New Meadows winters all the way to the frying pan of Arizonia. Just simple 810 CCA. Group 27. Walmart... Only thing I do when needed is equalize charge the batteries.

Last set of Hankook ATm I ran lasted over 70k.

No. Different 5 volt circuit. IAT only controls engine timing as far as I figured out. Then I would have to ask didn't you follow the crowd and buy a "Cummins MAP sensors" being that sensor is "The highest Quality" which I know it isn't and not produced directly by Cummins either. So what code did the old sensor pop Always been the MAP is just behind the fuel filter. The IAT shuold be all the way at the very end of the intake manifold back by #6.

Never been good display from the get go. I've got to ask do you have oversized tires (bigger than 265/75 R16)? Do you have any kind of tuner on the truck? (Smarty, Quadzilla, Edge, etc)?

I've used a small bottle jack and a 2x6 and spread the frame slightly like an 1/8 inch max comes out easy.

Technically it should actually work. There is cords that convert to a normal USB A plug to USB C so people can plug in memory sticks, mice so forth. Which ive plugged in mouse to my phone and works, even plugged in a keyboard. It worked too. But I would never consider plugging in my cellphone to the Quadzilla box. Kind of fruitless to do such being the only thing that port is used for is firmware upgrades. Problem it requires Windows to run the software to do the upgrade. So plugging in cellphone wouldn't be suggested.

Not bled... not getting the full release of the clutch. I would pull the slave the quick and hard push the rod in, hold then slow ease the rod out not to draw the bubbles back in. Problem is the factory route of the tube has a hi spot that traps air. Hence why it best to fully remove and bleed hanging.

Central Timer and all the things its hooked up to...

My 31 foot can be handful in poor weather or high winds.

All i can say is Do Not Buy New... If you do be prepared for lots of dealer visits. My buddy in Parma spent more time in the dealer than camping. Like my Dad he bought new. There was over 20 visits to the dealer. Propane leak, roof issues, stereo and speaker problems, engine issues... Like myself I bought used and had very few issues with my Jaycp. Now owned it 10 years. Manufactured in 2000. So its 20 years old.

We wanted to do something nice for @Wet Vette younger daughter. So we told them to have a birthday party at our place and have everyone camping out here. I was playing with my phone last night and start to play with slow mo video and this was awesome video clips. No real audio you can mute it.

Quadzilla should be hooked to a PC for firmware updates. Not your mobil device. Now for tunes you need to download with you mobil device and use the import function. (Apples tend to have issues here).

Thing is there is only a hand full of battery manufactures. Brand name doesn't mean much. Being there is only 3 manufactures for batteries. It just matters for CCA. 750 Amp batteries where the stock size. Anything bigger is a bonus. Like my Walmart Batteries are now 8 years old and same manufacture as the factory batteries but instead of 750 CCA its now 810 CCA. Main cableshave less than 4mV drop.

Actually the voltage regulator really has changed a lot since 1960's. The old school steel can had the temperature compensation. Just it used the under hood temperature as a battery control. Hence why most where mount in such away to feel the radiator temp from the fan or wind pushing through. The only thing that improved was the single steel can was moved into the PCM and then added a temp sensor at the battery. This in absolutely no different that my inverter here at home with a single battery temp sensor. But I've got 8 batteries and 1,000 pounds in those 8 batteries. Just one sensor for one battery out of 7 batteries. Still the same old 2 wire field same alternators just bigger current same 12V operation. Even the wire colors are the same from the 70's. Blue for the + side and green for the variable ground. Some of the vans had green for the ground side but red for the hot side of the alternator.

Grab @pepsi71ocean and have him update his page.

Not much... Canned tuner I'm not going even suggest... If you cant adjust timing a tuner is just not going to work optimal. If your going to stay pure stock then yes I would suggest it because the canned tunes are typically build for true stock trucks. Now change injectors you need to change timing to meet the needs of the injector for efficiency. Like most canned tuners are built for stock so maybe few extra degrees of timing. Like my Edge Comp it turned into a smokey hot EGT mess with bigger injectors. Now with the 150 HP injectors now are extremely cool and good MPG. Now if I was to swap back to the Edge Comp (which I did with the 75 HP Injectors) it was a totally smoke bomb, extremely hot and worthless as a tuner. Again without a means to manage timing your kind of limited.

BEWARE... Tire conversation. That's because of the wider tires. That spreads your axles weight out over larger square inch surface. Like walking on a weak roof you throw down a sheet of plywood to spread your weight over the trusses. This making it easy for the truck to spin on grass or slick, or climbing... I will say "Wider Tires" will make the tires float on top of mud better because of the spreading of weight. But for traction narrower tires bite better for offroading. To this day I've climbed some steep hills, and did well. Another way to look at it... You go outside into the snow and steep in the deep snow you sink right in. Now throw on snow shoes you can walk on top of the snow. Just spreading the weight out so the soft ground doesn't depress... Typical axle weights...(Roughly) Front - 4,3xx to 4,5xx Rear - 2,8xx to 3,2xx Another tidbit I'm also open diff both front and rear. Rare to slip a tire with what I've played in the tire game between 215, 235, 245, and 265s. I would say the 265 were horrid for offroading tend to spin too much. As for the 235's those were awesome bites right in and held good for even dragging full size truck up the bank. 245's not a lot of experience offroad as of yet but soon. Then on my lil 96 Dodge I've got the 215's and those climb really good! Rare to even spin or get stuck. Another secret. I've shown this to several people and it works. If you trying to cross old crusty snow. Wide tires are best but even narrow tires can do it with a twist. If I back over the snow I'm dragging the most weight across the soft snow or mud. When you drive forward the weight of the Cummins will drive the front axle down and sink it. Again for soft ground (mud) the wider tires are best. Snow on the highway, narrow is best for highway traction. Again small patch of tire will push down to the asphalt easier to bite. I'm considering going up with a nicer set of wheels but I know it going to require a wider face tire like 265 to 285. But I'm going to keep my 30 inch size. Aluminum wheels... I'm about 200 feet above the road below... 4 wheel drive and climb the face. (235's)

APPS sensor if it goes out of range at all then it would instantly "Dead Pedal" then ignore the wild signal then set the P0121, P0122 or P0123 code(s). All you got to do is watch the TPS value on a Quadzilla or Live Data tool and see if you can reach full 100%. I do see the P0122 code but that is low volt value. We do have Timbos APPS here...