Mopar1973Man

Yup still got the same 5 amp fuse. Haven't changed yet, and hasn't blown the fuse either. Not to mention the alternators quit burning up and working like designed.

Both the same. Power supply. The both operate in tandem again the circuit can hold the full 15 amp pump so its split out between to control transistors.

Cycle the ignition key again and reboot the mobile device and the iQuad. It should come back up typically. If not you might have to check the tune settings on the Quadzilla. Also if the battery is disconnected the level is default to ZERO. Just need to warm up completely and adjust after warm-up mode is cleared.

Your correct. There is no relays in the ECM. The power leads are split out to handle the amperage load on the circuits. Steel covers are capacitors...

I've been running AirDog 150 for 14 years now. The original pump died and was replaced with a 3rd Gen pump and failed shortly afterwards. Then now been replaced with a 4th Gen 165 GPH pump head and no problems since.

While the starter is cranking the engine it should be pulsing 12V to ZERO volts. While the engine is running it should be a solid 12V from the ECM.

Too big. It's like a 4 inch diameter o-ring. The biggest I can put my fingers on are like 1 inch.

I want a better time where I can adjust the shutter speed but yes that was full auto. As for looking toward the truck its not bad at all. As long as your head is above the cut off of the beam it easy to look at. What is sad on the 1996 with Silverstar Halogens and my Switchback LED marker lights... The LED marker lights are brighter than the head lights.

Here you go... Now that the sun came up some... 1996 Dodge in the drive way...

Its a square wave pulsing on and off. Its not a reduced voltage but a pulsing on and off 25% duty cycle square wave. Volt meter or DVM will not measure a square wave properly. You'll need a o-scope to see the pulses correctly.

The only thing I will mention is the 5.7L Hemi has had issues with rear cylinders and the con rods popping out the block. I've seen two already that have had this issue locally. One happened to be a close friend and his wife's 5.7L Hemi Durango.

Poor man you can use a normal 200 amp battery charger but you have to mind the charging amps and charging volts. I've taken a few completely dead batteries and brought them back to life and about 80% to 90% capacity again. The whole trick is bring a 12V battery up to 15.5 Volts till the amperage drops near zero. Then back down to a normal 2 to 10 Amp charge. Best to keep the caps off and mind your electrolyte levels while charging. My house inverter (solar system) provides a equalize charger too. I can just hook up to it and do a longer and slow method of equalize that works even better. Being its a 24V system I can do a equalize for 6V or 12V batteries too. It's also a 200 Amp charger as well but I've got it limited to 1 AC amp which is roughly 5 Amp at 24V. Then its set up on a timer as well.

Get a hold of me I can fix that for ya. Reservoir seal. There is a o-ring to the reservoir simple to change but hard to get the o-ring. I ask a NAPA guy to help me out he ordered the pump and gave me the seal from the pump. You don't need to pull the pump. Just remove the hoses from the back. 2 bolts and the pressure fitting and the reservoir will slide right off. Watch there is 2 square cut seals for the bolt holes.

Pffft... This ain't nothing... I'm still running 2WD most of the time. I've got about 1.5 feet roughly here. Still since 1996 I've still not chain up either truck yet even once. I've got a brand new set off snow chains with the black paint yet. Biggest secret is the 215's I'm running on the 1996 Dodge has excellent traction even in snow with 2WD. Then the 2002 is about the same the 245's are doing excellent as well but I have to turn the Quadzilla down to level 2 or Level 3 just to keep from over powering the tires. Still capable of running 2WD most of the time. Also weighed out the truck axles and remathed the tire pressures.

Correct... ECT and IAT have zero effect on fueling. ECT and IAT both in stock form control timing. Quadzilla wise the IAT is dropped and not used.

Fueling is not controlled by temperature.

Heck I'm driving the 1996 Dodge 1500 for now and got 80k miles on the front brakes and rotors. I don't just put into drive... I shift down using gear for stopping. Then use the service brakes below 35 MPH. Currently 183k miles and only done the front brakes. Rears are coming soon.

Yes to all the above crowded and crazy. Ontario, OR is full if illegal mexicans, and homeless. Boise is just full of crazy nuts. I84 is bad any business day near Caldwell to Boise. West is ok but you have to fight off the slow truckers. I run the I84 back and forth to the Nampa area for @Wet Vette meds and stuff in storage down there. She also has family and friends in the Nampa / Boise area. The U95 isn't too bad good flow of traffic to Weiser, ID then after that it thins out really well. Like this morning I'm looking at the roads and they suck... ... and I'm headed to Ontario, OR this morning... Oh what fun!

Yup. The winter tune is rather retarded in timing being the cetane in the fuel up here is pretty high. Summer tune has lot of extra timing.

Interstate now I can tip 19 to 20 MPG with my winter tune 80 MPH @ 2,500 RPMs. Highway is 18 to 19 MPG with all the 6 and 7% grades I drive (55 to 65 MPH) and 4WD usage with snow.

Bosch alternators are difficult and expensive to rebuild being the diodes are soldered into the alternator. Denso is super easy and I even sell the diodes here on the site. I sell both styles. (0886) I've only got one in stock but can get more.

That wide tire will only give you roughly 16 MPG stock config max according to my fuel logs of the past. I dropped to 235/85 R16 for years and did much better because the 235's were almost 20 pounds a tire lighter. Now switched to the door label to 245/75 R16 and now gain more torque. I went from 31" tire down to 30" and the tire is still slightly light than the 265/75 R16. This last change of tires altered the final ratio to the ground from 3.55 to 3.69. Making the truck even quicker and producing more torque at the rear tires. Wider the tires the more rolling resistance. Hence why true racing vehicles have very narrow front tires to reduce rolling resistance. Rears have to be wide and light for traction and reduce rotational mass. What are your tire pressures? Typically most 235, 245 and 256's tires are 3,042 pounds at 80 PSI for capacity. Using my truck for weights which I just done last week. Tires -> Hankook ATm 24/76 R16 rated for 3,042 at 80 PSI Front axle - 4400 pounds -> 4400 / 2 = 2200 / 3042 = 0.72 x 80 = 57.8 PSI Inflate the front Rear axle - 2900 Pounds -> 2900 / 2 = 1450 / 3042 = 0.47 x 80 = 38.1 PSI Inflate the rear This will get you the best tire wear, traction, and comfort in the truck. So like I typically just run the 60 Front and 40 rear being I may carry some weight some days. As for pressures for full 8,000 pound truck weight capacity is 60 PSI in all tires will cover 8,000 pound GVWR. If I'm going for comfort I would drop down to 55 PSI front and 35 PSI rear this also works good on soft surface like sand too. Loose materials require low pressures for better traction.

Double check both ends. I've seen track bars fail at the passenger side rubber bushing.

Like my Bluetooth head is in the cab. I've got th3e go ahead for relocating the bluetooth head to the cab and still having issues even when the cab is warm.

Just this morning... Snowing... You can clearly see my light have good cut off. Don't blind on coming but lights up a wide path...