Mopar1973Man

Get the o-ring... Harbor freight has o-ring kits for super cheap.

That would be my first spot to look. Go back over the the rear right. Then I've seen problems with mine with the tone ring coming free and the sensor was fine but the tone ring was slipping. Since mine is 2nd gen I had to replace the unit bearing on the front axle.

Ahhh... Yup he's going to need a adapter for the metric straight threads.

Exhaust brake. 180k to 200k on brakes. I'll never go without a exhaust brake.

NAPA sells a replacement clip too. Mine just broke the same way...

Remove the fuel pressure gauge... Then set the fuel pressure warning to ZERO.

Every time you turn the key off and back on the ABS computer reboots and checks the status of the ABS sensors. As soon as I fixed the problem on my truck it reset the light in less than 100 feet.

Why all this? Quadzilla Trans Temp Sensor screws right into the oil filter housing no fittings required. The hole is 1/8 NPT.

Doesn't matter... I've tried Donaldson 3um, Fleetguard 3um, AirDog 3um filters all them pass dirt. The 7um in the stock always has some dirt in it.

Installed mine in the test port at the oil filter on top of the oil cooler.

Don't delete the factory filter. KEEP IT! I run both 3 micron filter on the AirDog 150 but a 7 micron filter in the stock filter. I found out that even the 3 micron filter on the AirDog is passing dirt on to the stock filter and the 7 micron is catching. Yes you have to drop the tank for installing the straw... Stock 7 micron, and the AirDog 150 3 micron cut open...

You'll need to either install a draw straw... I would suggest a AirDog 150 or similar or mechanical pump.

Shoot... Ask away...

Engine load and engine oil temperature. As timing advances the engine oil temperature will rise. Then when you retard it will fall. I'm aiming for lower engine oil temperature and low engine loads. I'm now at 21 MPG last tank ran. Pretty soon I'll be back to advanced timing and summer fuel with cetane at 40 to 43. During the summer I aim for about -10*F lower engine oil temperature than coolant. In the winter is about -30*F lower than coolant. As you advance timing there is more flame front on the cylinder walls heating the coolant more hence the engine oil can be cooled as much on the 2nd gens.

Also be aware that all upgraded Mopar Tie Rod Ends had a recall back awhile ago. NAPA was included in this recall too. Stock stuff was no affected. Double check the part number to make sure it was superseded.

Salvage yards, Pick a part, etc. LMC truck sells all new stuff. https://www.lmctruck.com/

Yup... That all I did use a tire calculator site. https://tiresize.com/calculator/

If it doesn't have the START leg then it will cutoff and disconnect during your start up. Then have to reconnect on every start.

Cleared up the noise issue at least...

Higher the cetane the more the retarding you would give. Lower the cetane the more advancement you would give. Higher the cetane the lower the BTU's. Lower the cetane the higher the BTU's. Dark green is low cetane (summer), light green is high cetane (winter fuel).

Personally stand alone gauges are more accurate. Again like ISSPro EV or EV2 gauges, Autometer, etc.

Quadzilla is the only tuner with full control of fuel and timing. You DO NOT require a screen. It can be ran headless. I do this off and on. 2 cycle oil you can pin me I'll help you a bunch being I'm one of the founder to 2 cycle oil usage.

Just trying to give another view that is workable and doesn't require swapping wheels, or looking for special parts. Too many people bad mouth the front axle steering and most of this is self inflicted damaged by other modification that people do that creates the failure.

ISSPro EV or ISSPro EV2 gauges are you best bet. I did the ISSPro EV2 they are USB programmable and do much more. Set warning lights, set the illumination, set a control relay, set the needle reaction speed. Etc...

Hence why I just went back to factory parts which lasted over 350k miles before failure. The biggest thing is no lifts or oversized tires and this will make the front end last much longer. The oversized wheels, wild offsets and lift kits tend to screw with the geometry of the axle causing part failures to occur faster. Not a problem I've got two shops and work on Dodges and Chevy trucks quite a bit. Even a few Fords now and then...