Mopar1973Man

Slow cranking is because of the brushes are worn out. There is a kit that Larry B's sells to rebuild that for cheap.

AirDog or FASS. Personally, I prefer the AirDog 150. 13 years of service so far only lost one pump head. Still pumping strong.

With 3.55 gear optimal the 245's are the best ratio for common road driving. Interstate either 235's or 265's are perfect. If you want the larger tires you need to start with 4.10 gears at least for everything up to 35" tire. 37" tire would be best with 4.56 gears. This is the big mistake of all because so many people put 35 to 37 inch tires on 3.55 geared axles then end up eating driveline and transmissions and can't figure out why. Then complain about MPG being as low as 12 MPG and EGT's are through the roof towing even the smaller trailers. Gearing is very important! I still love hunting down 3rd gens with 37 inch tires on 3.42 gears. They lose street races easy. Look cool but no power.

Make it gain a couple of strokes...

It's cool at least you asked questions and found out...

Only way to cancel post heat is to exceed 25 MPH or allow it to idle more 5 minutes.

LOL. Just helped a friend jump start a Detroit Diesel. The funny part was 225 Amp battery charger wasn't enough I stacked on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 and we got it spun over on a cold day. Little battery packs are good for little cars. For sure will not start a diesel engine.

Be aware...If you go this route. You'll need a lift kit in the front, an adjustable track bar. Possibly a new set of control arms to get the caster corrected. Then the gear ratio in the axle might have to be changed up because the final ratio to the ground will be too low. Then you are going to need the steering box brace to keep it from being damaged. Do your homework before slapping on a set of big tires. It might cost you more than you figured just to look cool.

Should have this little 46RE I've got in my 1500 Ram. It a @Dynamic built transmission and it will take a good beating. Shift are super firm and pulls trailers good too.

Typically for myself it about a -2 MPG loss. I'm floating at the top end of 18.1 to about 19.0 MPG for the winter.

Just remember to keep the cable end covered in engine oil they will never rot again. Period. Heck in 2022 my cable will be 20 years old and still going like brand new.

Kind of why I like NV4500 5 speed manual transmissions. They are locked up in ALL gears. No programmer need. Seriously I understand what you are talking about. Like there is a point like my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 will downshift to 3rd and unlock and remain that way pulling little grades and just generates a ton of heat. You have to remember to hit the O/D OFF button and then in locks up. Then once you hit flat ground again you gotta remember to hit the button again to get 4th lockup. I'm not very impressed with the 46RE or 47RE they all seem to have the same weird shift habits and not locking or hold a gear they way you wish.

MPG mode with prevent pre-heat of the grid heaters at key on.

@IBMobile has a solution talk to him.

Exactly... The IAT will affect the pre-heat cycle but the battery temperature controls the post heat cycle after the engine is started. If you leave the MPG mode up on a cold start the grid heater will not fire. Then after it starts it will run grid heaters. Now the strange but true you can have 195°F coolant and IAT at 90°F and the grid heater will still fire post heat. Even though the IAT could be fooled to 143°F still the gird heaters will fire on post heat. This is the battery temperature sensor feeding this data.

Normal. Exhaust brakes places a valve in the exhaust stream so the pressure in the cylinders to blow back into the manifold. This oily / soot mess is normal for exhaust brake users. Mine is no different.

Give these folks a shot. Handling my PCM problem quite well. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/196-auto-computer-specialist/ I'll tag @Auto Computer Specialist to get them involved.

We now have @Auto Computer Specialist here on the site and here is there forum area. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/196-auto-computer-specialist/

Yeah, Chicken man did good... He called it right and thought of something I would have missed. Congrad @dripley for fixing one truck. Now keep going! You'll get the hang of it yet...

Like I said you going to have to check those fuses. Pull the square ones out and ohm test the fuses. I've seen those crack and look fine but the circuit is dead. Here is all the power from the battery to past the key switch.

I would check the lift pump lead from the ECM with a test light. See if the ECM is actually putting power out. If so then the lift pump has issues. If the ECM is not supplying power then the ECM is having issues.

Check out IOD fuse in the cab. It might of blown. You have to open the yellow clip to get the fuse out. Then check all the fuses in the PDC under the hood.

It could be proportioning valve or it could be the rear axle dumping pressure in the ABS system but your ABS light might not be working.

That's funny...