Mopar1973Man

Yes sir no CAD axle here... With all my tuning like dropping from 265's (31.7") to 245's (30.5") tires, then adding the Quadzilla Adrenaline Tuner and understanding how to properly build tunes that are highly efficient. Then watch my temperatures of everything because anything creating a large amount of heat is loss of power and efficiency. This is why I never bother with free spin hubs because no one to this day has beaten me in efficiency numbers like MPG. My current high mark is 30 MPG and crossing the entire state of Washington on just a 1/4 of a tank of fuel from Seattle WA to Idaho border outside Lewiston ID. Just keep in mind every 1 pound of rotational mass you remove is like removing 8 pounds off the frame. Like on my tires just dropping from 265's to 245's was about 20 pounds per tire off which 800 pounds off the frame. This is why racing slicks are barely 20 to 30 pounds per tire also remember smooth tread face is more efficient than offroad mud tires. Then with a 5 speed NV4500 transmission with a dual disc clutch I've got no slip in the transmission which 47RE are more prone to slip. Proper use of gearing and throttle goes way better than "Babying The Truck". Optimal RPM is 1,800 to 2,700 RPM. Anything below this is considered lugging the engine. Optimal Boost pressure is ZERO! Yes, this is correct if you are properly tuned then you should be able to cruise at highway speeds (55 to 65 MPH) without any boost pressure. Optimal coolant temperature and Engine Oil Temperature is hotter than most think. I'm now running 200℉ thermostat from a 6.7L Cummins with engine oil temperatures following at 170℉. So the whole free spin axle set up is going to net you a very, very small gain that is barely noticed. Where they mods I've done makes the truck efficient.

Better add that extra VP44 so you can actually leave Idaho.

Or just have the solid axle like Beast and not worry.

Wow back up camera on a 1950's truck this is going to be feature rich truck.

I'm going to give this a shot on Beast. Thanks for the tip.

Vacuum? Now that I owned... 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 46RE 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins 5 Speed 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9L Cummins 6 Speed I can say loses to spinning hardware are minimal. Being 2002 Dodge is a solid axle and spins constantly and still can reach 30 MPG. My 1996 Dodge had a CAD axle and barely got 14 MPG and nothing spins. As for the 2006 Dodge it can reach 15 to 16 MPG but it 2,500 pounds over weight with a flat bed and huge winch bumper which I'm removing and putting a factory bumpers and bed back on and going to get a CR truck to 30 MPG again with a solid axle.

Problem what are you going to to about the PCM software? Remember that the Smarty will reprogram the ECM but does zero for the PCM on removing transmission controls going from Auto to Manual.

Sadly you have to send the ECM in for repairs and maybe about 5 to 7 days on average to get it repaired. I had a job where I had the client send both PCM and ECM to be refreshed for manual and everything worked out right.

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTFyBMhTs/ Here you go gang.

Yeah you could manage your fuel and timing better with a Quadzilla. I tend to add fuel AFTER turbo is spooled. Basically I'm running only +150HP injectors till 15 PSI Boost. Then I pour the fuel to the engine above 15 PSI.

Yeah I missed that thanks. The tires are OK for size. With an automatic with a 0.68 final ratio might bring the cruising RPM too low and might create lugging and EGTs will rise sharply. Proper cruising RPM should be1,800 RPM or higher. No, because HY35W is a 9cm2 turbine housing like the HE351CW (60/60/9) is also a 9cm2 housing choke point that comes in very low at about 30 PSI. Now an HX35W is (54/60/12) and then an HX35/40 Hybrid is a (60/60/12) which is good till about 35 to 38 PSI without going to deep in the choke point.

No timing and fuel control on the Edge Comp. I left the Edge Comp and went to a Quadzilla Adrenaline. Your running excessively advanced timing and not enough retard to build boost and control EGTs. I'm running custom 7 x 0.010 +150HP DAP injectors popped at 320 bar. Stock HX35W turbo (54/60/12). No EGT issues all the way to 100 MPH. Now switch to my tow tune I can stand on the throttle and never exceed 1,200°F EGT even towing my 31 foot RV. I've gotta ask what size tires are you running?

Personally, I like the ND alternator over the Bosch alternator because you can rebuild the ND really easy and way cheaper. Diode packs are super cheap if you know where to get them. Bearings and brushes are cheap too. Either a reman'ed or new alternator make sure to have it tested before you leave the store. I've seen brand NEW alternators dead in the box and never been used. The second thing is to do the W-T ground wire mod. Alternators last much longer after this fix. No more failing diodes and burned-up brushes. Then you need the PCM protection fuse mod.

Nope. Because knowing that if I did have 35" tires my truck would have been a trainwreck and worthless. 35 inch tires on 3.55 gears would net a final ratio of 3.21:1 way too much stress on drivetrain parts. So in the first place I'd never put anything larger than a 31 inch tire on any 3.55 gear axle. This is highly damaging to both axles, suspension and brakes parts. Too much leverage and torque trapping before the axles on the other parts like U joints, transmission and transfer case. Brace is not going to fix any of that. So in my case I dropped to 245/75 R16 tire from the stock 265/75 R16 tire and that changed me to 3.69:1 final ratio and reduced stress on everything and increased my MPG to nearly 30 MPG. Yes, I've crossed the entire state of Washington from Seattle, WA to the Idaho border for only a 1/4 tank of fuel for 300 mile trip. With 30 inch tires I can use a quick ratio steering box (Blue Top Steering) WITHOUT a brace and enjoy snappy steering with little wear to all suspension parts and brakes last forever. This is not an option for you because the 35 inch tires place too much stress on the steering box and will cause damage to a quick ratio so you need the standard ratio box. Now with a quick ratio I got a truck that drives like a sports car. Ball joints that last 200K to 300K (AC Delco) Tie Rod ends last 250K (AC Delco) Brakes 250K (Economy pads NAPA) Tires 60K to 80K (Hankook AT2 245/75 R16) Sadly you need 2 inches of tire to lift the axle 1 inch. Then to increase the tire size you add spinning weight for every 1 pound of rotational mass you can drop like removing 8 pounds off the frame. In my case dropping from 265's to 245's dropped about 20 pounds per tire off which is about 640 pounds off the frame in performance and acceleration is much quicker without the EGT's. Even towing my utility trailer and my tow tune I can stand on the throttle and never really reach too hot touching 1,200 EGT's but that's all. Yeah my truck is used offroad quite a bit. You got to look at all angles of the impact of the tires and weight vs just a brace and steering box. With my Jayco trailer and truck on the scale is roughly 17,500 pounds rolling load. Again snappy steering and way better acceleration for towing with little EGT's. Yes, I tow trailers a lot in the summertime, and then in the winter time I might have to travel long distances to get supplies like Lewiston or Boise (3 hours) to get food and supplies. So efficiency and longevity mean way more than appearance. So this is why I wouldn't have the brace nor the 35's tires. Too damaging being that is EXACTLY how I killed my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon and broke a front axle because of oversized tires. Another trick. In the winter I can out-drive anyone with big tires. If you to walk out in the snow your foot will compact snow. Now if you put on snow shoes you can walk on top of the snow. This is why I can't run big tires in the winter because the 245's provide way more traction on ice than a 35 inch would. I've out run other diesels at 55 to 65 MPH on snow covered roads and they can't keep up. Lack of traction due to oversized tires and then more likely to roll over because center of gravity is much higher. Staying low to the ground is much safer.

Flat bed with stake pockets. Going to be sweet truck.

Problem isn't the bearing mounting. Like here in Idaho the bearing only last about 2 to 3 years because of mud and salt from winter driving. Then the set screws rust in place making a bearing change nearly impossible. Last one I had to cut off with a torch (hot knife) and replace the entire bracket and bearing. The other problem is where it mounts to the frame it will break the nuts off in the frame too. Rust issues are nuts. So that truck wound up with a sway bar delete.

Storm fell stuff. Laying over roads.

Did a bit of truck driving and got a friend to help get firewood loaded. Yeah Beast is back in action just myself I cannot lift anything heavy yet. I can do light function ls like fueling saws, sharpen chains, etc. Again I don't have the strength to lift nor do I want a hernia from lifting.

No. I'm nearly 500k miles on all factory steering equipment and no issues. I'm also a quick ratio steering box which you cannot use till your a 31 or smaller tire. Ball joint 350k miles, tie rods 250k miles. Brakes every 200 to 250k miles. Steering box brace is a huge pain in the rear. Being your still going to wear the steering box out and try to remove that brace you end up losing parts that are rusted or lose the core because you cannot remove the brace completely. Yeah been there on customers trucks.

Yesterday was a run to Lewiston and get supplies for the house. For me it's very draining to walk all over Walmart then go to Home Depot and walk all over too. Strange enough a nice gent wanted a photo of me. After the photo the fine gent prayed over both Suzanna and myself for help from the Good Lord to aid both of us on our road to recovery. Then headed over to WinCo for a few food items. Yeah I'm wore out energy wise today but gain ground. Health wise my blood pressure is in check and doing good just out of shape. Even my weight is down 5 pounds and doing better.

Sadly all wear issues are results of lift kits and large tires either T or Y steering will still wear quickly because neither set up will support wide tire or lift kits. Sadly this mod will not stop wear issues.

Yes you need to do a W-T ground wire mod. This is suggested even by Auto Computer Specialists for ECM protection. Means the boost went too high because of no boost fooler. I would skip the intake elbow because there is only a 10 HP gain over 600 HP of engine power. There is nothing to gain really for a daily driver because we never just hold the throttle wide open for miles. Second thing is warm air in the manifold is desired really after all my study work. I'm running a 200℉ thermostat from a 6.7L Cummins and pushing intake temperatures in the 80℉ to 140℉ realm for efficiency reasons. My EGT's are super low and Engine oil temperatures are always 30℉ to 35℉ below coolant temperatures. Cold air intake steal efficiency from the engine because cold air CANNOT ignite fuel in proper timing.

I'm still alive and still battling away at figuring out my new life with an ostomy bag. I even tried to do some shop work yesterday helping Mark a bit but man after being laid up for over 8 months with surgeries and chemo treatments I'm still fragile and have issues with holding even small amounts of weight for any length of time. I am still having issues with my kidneys and need to work at getting my kidney function back to the good realm. Part of my kidney issues could be because of the head cold I had and then I had an issue with food that made me sick. That may be fouling my labs. We will see soon. Now my race is on to figure out finding enough help and support to get firewood onto the property. Typically I need about 9 to 12 cords to keep the property warm and not freezing. Being my income is extremely limited I can't afford to heat with an electric heat pump for this winter. This is a problem I'll have to visit soon. Beast is going to need a set of wheel joints in the front axle I "think" I can get the job done with a bit of help from friends. Holloween is coming soon so I've been working on my look. This is the way I went to McCall hospital for my labs and handled my Norco supplies for my ostomy. Still is all I get people that come up to me and give me huge hugs and give me great comments.

Impatiently waiting...

What size injectors are you running? Strangely enough I'm running 150's and still running the stock HX35W (54/60/12). I might be able to tweak your tune a bit and help out with keeping the EGT's down. There is several tricks I've learned about tuning that managed to allow me to run most daily driving and towing without issues of EGT's. Might give me a call and I'll do what I can to aid in this build.