Mopar1973Man

No different here... Hauling a 24V truck back south upgrade and snapped the mainshaft. Still, the fact is both the Nv4500 and Nv5600 have the same two top gear for the most part.

I love a comment from the Street Outlaws. "Spinning isn't winning". If you have built a tune that is so aggressive that you are breaking the tires loose you are overpowering the road. You need to build your tune and fuel system around the ability of the road and the truck without spin the tires everywhere or being so overpowered you can keep control of it. Yeah, it nice to build an all-out tune that put everything out there. I've got one too but it put some serious power down and the 245's tires don't seem to be able to hold that much power. Really... What most of your daily driving needs are much lower. Like myself, I use the minimum amount of wiretap on my daily tune 1,200us worth of tap. Drive mostly on the CANBus fuel map. As for timing you need to consider your 1,500 and 2,000 bands the most being that the range you spend the most time for the daily driver. Now with winter setting in I'm considering a special tune for just winter travel.

Above 0.2 volts is a fail for voltage drop test.

Still running factory Y Style. My OEM linkage lasted 350k miles. To this day mine is still tight using all NAPA replacement in the front. The whole problem typically falls on the oversize tires why the Dodge Ram steering gets sloppy. Never had that issue, never ran oversized tires. Matter of fact I'm running undersized tires.

2001 somewhere in the mid year some started working. This is not a guarantee that it works with all 2001. Just depends on if you got the flash to do it. Again its a random game on 2001.

This only works on 2002 trucks. 2000 and 2001 may or may not work. Most only report the PCM. 1998.5 and 1999 truck don't work at all.

That one is a good one for @Me78569

I'm sure @Me78569 would know. I remember something being said about Samsung device having problems.

Coolant is a strange animal can't base it strictly on mileage or time. It has to be both. Some people barely drive 3k a year. That would mean changing coolant every 33 years. Personally try not to run right up to the full limit of any coolant typical is risky. I rather be slightly early on flush and fill than late on coolant.

Cheap stone. Redneck class here.

I'll have to measure the ohms on the sensor.

Just go over to the classified ads and sell the darn thing...

Need to know the error codes. Also got to ask does the WAIT TO START light come on instantly with the key? Then have you done an AC noise test on the alternator? Is there any modified wiring on the APPS or added ground wires?

I don't think it a switch. I think it a true one wire pressure sensor like the older Mopar's had back in the day.

The one I listed was Standard Products. Which is typically a good sensor.

I never buy Cummins... Just reboxed and higher priced. Matter of fact I just ordered a Gates 200*F thermostat off a RockAuto for whole $13 bucks. To continue my efficiency testing. Over $30 cheaper than the NAPA.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1320280&cc=1440064&jsn=456 Whole $12.65 for the pressure sensor. I'm sure that Cummins sensor was way higher in price.

2002 is a single wire, two pin plug but only one pin in the sensor. What you bought is 98.5 to 2001 sensor.

Maybe the customer should buy quality fuels. In 350k miles I've only seen the WIF light once. After that I've never drain more than maybe 1 ounce of water from the AirDog. Factory filter never sees water. I change filters every 60k and drain the separators then still always less than 1 ounce. The one time I tripped the WIF light I was being cheap and bought fuel at a mom and pop station. Never again.

This is where your scale build is caused from. Extending the coolant way beyond the service life. Not so much about specs but understanding the service life of the chemicals in the coolant and have it changed out BEFORE the chemicals and stabilizers are totally consumed. It's that simple. Again now you running without any protection of a coolant and there is nothing to protect against water pH (corrosive nature of city water) or protecting from oxidation from the water. Again its about have the protection of the chemicals in the coolant to protect the engine.

I've got to ask what is axle gear ratio?

It would be worth it just to put studs in and not worry anymore.

Level zero uses factory timing but your 0 PSI fuel limit.

This is what I'm learning. 7 x 0.0085 injectors are good with the Quadzilla but you can't push any more volume than what the injector will flow at its maximum duration time. 7 x 0.010 would be a good starting place and you can tune down that injector for a daily tune just as easily. In nutshell, you no longer have to keep the Quadzilla reaching to the absolute maximum ends of everything to get the most from it. You can be slightly overpowered injector wise but cut it back using the Quadzilla for your driving conditions and driving style.

These truck are not designed to be driven short trip where the engine never builds full temperature. Really common out here where people live in a little town like Riggins, ID and never less than a full mile back and forth to work. A typical diesel engine will get washed out quickly because they never reach full temperature for very long if at all. Bad for even a gasoline engine to live that way. This is most of the reason why I've got good longevity from my truck. Riggins, ID is a 30-mile round trip. McCall is a 70-mile round trip. Either way I got I'm getting the full operating temperature and putting distance down. Ontario, OR trip for MoparMom is 250-mile round trip every Tues., Thurs., and Sat.