Mopar1973Man

Ok gang... I've got a good one. My interior light in the center of the cab is out and so is my power mirrors. Now everyone is going to jump and say to check fuses. Been there and done that the IOD fuse for that circuit is fine because the glovebox light and the overhead console (map lights) and cargo bed lights work. When I pulled C203 all the light went out. So power is good to that point. Now I'm trying to find S310 but the FSM lists S310 as N/S (not seen). What is weird the Cargo light in the top of the cab work. So the only thing I can figure is the S310 splice has broke loose and dropped the dome light and the power mirror on me. Is it possible there is this G304 in the lower rear of the cab. I''ve can find nothing on G304 ground in the FSM at all. Another view... This is for the dome light. For the power mirrors

Yeah but ol' Cajflynn covered 1.3 MILLION miles without any need of special testing or synthetic oils. Chevron Del 15w-40 and Fleetguard oil filters. Kind of like @dorkweed did a 84,000 mile oil change on SuperTech 15w-40 oil. He was running a bypass filter (Motorguard) and change filters every 7k miles and testing and Blackstone labs keep him going till 84k miles. All these that I'm quoting are members of the website and actually documented these happenings.

Kind of like finding Hen's teeth or Rocking Horse Crap...

Ummm... I can't base on mileage alone when I may be idling the truck for long periods as well. Like this summer there was times where I slept in the truck with the A/C running for 4 hours idling. Then come this winter I'll be doing the same thing idling trying to stay warm at times. Not a normal just drive thing I've got to weigh in the full effect of everything. Now that the RV was towed home now. There is nowhere for me to go and hang out for 4 hours for 3 days a week while waiting for MoparMom to have here dialysis. Most days I fire up the laptop against my cell phone and continue to do web work while in the truck. Being now the temperatures are dropping down during the daytime I'll be prone to idling and keeping the heat going. 7k to 8k is a safe realm without adding the cost of UOA. I'm sure I could jump up to 20k miles if I was like @cajflynn that ran 600 to 800 miles a day hauling boats. Now like @dripley is also the same kind of person that idles for long periods as well being his truck becomes his office lot of the time. Again you have to account for the long idle periods we place on the engine being those engine hours are not counted on the odometer.

Hey Gang... I got a call from a fellow forum member @towhungerford that is serving time in prison. He called asking for a favor. All he's asking for is reading material. Catalogs, magazines, anything to past the time with. He enjoys reading Dodge Diesel stuff (VP44 stuff) and Ford Diesel stuff. If you know of free catalogs and magazines he would sure enjoy the reading material. Tim Hungerford BDCC 1455 Bravo Blvd Minden, LA 71055 Help a fellow diesel nut make it through the time he has to serve... Do list what your sending so other members don't repeat the same thing please...

Quadzilla timing and pop pressures make a huge difference. I just got a phone call from @pepsi71ocean that just had his injectors re-popped from the 280 bar he had to 320 bar roughly and way different from what he said. Runs much cleaner, way less smoke that before, pulls with more power since he's running +100HP injectors and Smarty S-03 tuner. The problem with the Smarty S-03 is that you have to take the designers limits. The S-03 is actually designed around STOCK injectors so the fuel and timing control doesn't exactly fit +100 HP injectors. I'm next in line when I got the extra funds I'm going to up the pop on mine because I know the last set of injectors I installed are 300 bar and nearly 100k miles now I'm sure they are well in the 280 bar range now. With my timing cranked up advanced it makes for quieter cruising, less turbo spooling, smooth run and better yet 20-21 MPG.

Next time it quits unplug the pump motor and ohm test the pump itself if the ohm reading is infinite then the armature is the problem.

The first thing that hit me is the fuel line is too small. Second off it doesn't seem to be hooked up to the fuel filter at all. It appears to be hooked up to the return line which would be wrong. I can't even see the VP44 return in the picture which should run behind the fuel filter. The filter inlet is on the firewall side. The filter outlet is at the bottom. You line is going around the filter which has me scratching my head. The other thing I noticed there is no snubber seen in the tee before the sensor. Water hammer pulse most likely ruined the sensor. Not to mention fuel pressure sensors should never be hooked up right at the tap point they need to be reomte mounted. As you can see my return line here. Then true 1/2" fuel lines. No banjo bolts. As you see my fuel pressure sensor is nowhere near the VP44. As you'll see I've got a snubber before the line heading to the sensor. That's the final brass fitting after the needle valve. The needle valve is a protection if the tubing broke I can shut the line and continue driving.

Time to see some photos of the build...

That's not going to do anything... Steel is not going to soak up oil. Then not to mention the diesel fuel will wash it off the first second the pump runs. It sounds like there is a bad brush or armature problem when your beating on the pump electrical connection is made and the pump runs again.

My problem, I've got to travel 250 to 300 miles per every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday to keep MoparMom alive with dialysis treatments. I'm on a limited budget with the tiny income I can manage scratch up plus MomparMom retirement. I try to do an odd job on Wednesdays and Friday if possible. Actually between the head curl and the gasket just rotting out was my failure. Also needed to valve seals and 18 valve guides which ate the valve seals. But after seeing the cylinder after changing the head gasket. I was tickled pink and no going to look back. Keep rolling forward and onward to the 1/2 million miles.

My winter temps here in New Meadows reach a low of -40*F. Never had a single issue for 16 years or 356k miles. $15 a gallon (Oil change with filter is $65 dollars) for what I buy from Napa. Again though when I cover the number of miles I do the cost of synthetics is too high and makes the cost of operation too high. Then doing oil changes every 5 to 6 weeks. So your oil change is over double the price of mine.

1st, 2nd and 3rd gear is hydraulically controlled within the transmission. 4th gear is electronically controlled by the PCM. I still say to get a hold of @Dynamic and ask him. He'll know exactly what is wrong.

While all you are worrying about synthetic oils and testing I'm heading back from the moon (236k miles to the moon). 356k miles and still rolling. When I'm coving 65k miles per year roughly the whole synthetic oil idea and testing is way outside my budget being I'm spending at least 500-700 a month in diesel fuel alone and then doing oil changes every 7k miles and that's at about every 5 to 6 weeks. More or less the low side of a hotshot driver. After seeing the head off and seeing the cylinders and piston condition I'm not going to even concern myself on the "Premium Oil" I'll just keep doing what I've done for the last 16 years and clear half a million miles.

That's the sad part all the new truck are so darn expensive for repairs any more you need to have a bank loan just to replace turbos.

I wish I could get my hand on a petroleum oil that is 5w-40 for up here. No one sells it. No, I'm not jumping in the synthetic oils way too expensive I'm on a limited budget. I change oil nearly once a month to every 5 weeks. (7k miles) On the 1996 Dodge (V8 5.9L Gas) I've already switched over to 5w-30 and running the 180*F thermostat because I'm running the Mopar Performance PCM and it advances the timing to 40* BTDC cruising at 65 MPH. This has made a huge jump for MPG from 13-14 MPG to 17.1 MPG on my last tank.

Sad I bought my truck in Ontario, OR back in 2002 and Oregon doesn't have any sale taxes at all but as soon as I registered in Idaho I had to cut a check for the full 6% sale tax in Idaho on top of what I paid for all the other doc fees.

Disconnect the return line below the tee and insert a piece of tubing. The only problem the more you do this the more you'll have problems with air leaks later when the o-ring wear out in the fitting. Not really. Just has to be free-flowing.

Well not to take away from the warm fuzzies... Quadzilla EGT gauge is off by +50*F compared to my ISSPro. Quadzilla boost pressure is off above 20 PSi and gaining offset as the pressure rises. Quadzilla coolant temperature is good till 204*F then report -40*F from there on up. CANBus limit. Quadzilla engine load does not report for 98.5 and 99. Quadzilla oil pressure does not report for 2002. Dodge voltage gauge will drop to 8 if the actual voltage falls to 11.99 volts. Dodge oil pressure gauge can vary with engine coolant temperature as much as 40 PSI swing. Personally, I would stick to a quality external gauge.

I like that one more. Two 3-amp charger sockets that just perfect. Even its the same 1.13" size barrel. I was just looking at my 1996 if I could stuff one of these USB chargers in there too.

T-Bred pumps tend to have issues and also have issues with the warranty being voided easy. I'm not sure where they get pumps from if they are a certified Bosch rebuilder or not. If you opt for warranty and return that pump make sure to get photos of the pump and document all numbers so you can challenge them on your pump warranty. I normally suggest either Vulcan Performance or Diesel Auto Power for VP44 pumps. I know both sell Industrial Injection pump which is a certified Bosch rebuilder. Then Diesel Auto Power sells Midwest Injection pump as well which is also a certified Bosch rebuilder.

Not hard enough... That's why it got kinked up.

Heck just figure my 1996 Dodge even though it's a 5.9L V8 gasser I've got good idea it will make it to 30 years. It's already 22 years old and still in awesome shape. The engine just twisted out 17.1 MPG on this last trip and running strong. The odometer has 176,242 miles. The 2002 Dodge is back off the road for a temporary time. When I got home with the RV and used the 4WD the front axles were popping and crunching as the wheel-joints where finally shot after 356k miles. So instead of running again on those and have the shafts beat up the unit bearings, I figure I would just use the 96 for a few days no bigger.

I was just pointing out a common issue I've seen. People like to use rubber hose for lots of things. Like when people attempt to do my crankcase mod with rubber heater hose the net result was some poor member stuck on the Al-Can Highway with the tappet cover gasket blown out and lost most of the engine oil. The only thing that stopped him was the Check Gage light and the Oil gauge being at Zero. So like the same thing happens with trying to get around that return tee in the back of the head. If you use rubber hose and for some reason, the return line should kink shut because of poor fitment then the front seal of the VP44 could be at risk. This is why I tend to suggest that the OEM return tee is kept and not modified. So have fun with your kinky theory...

Then all the restriction of the 6mm ID lines and the banjo bolts don't help it either. Then if it got a suction air leak as the engine load goes up the air leak will get worse and most likely what is stalling the engine out. When the bubble gets to the lift pump the pressure dies off.