Mopar1973Man

The other thing is once you got them that hot to things are going to be done. Replace the brake pads they are not designed to be cooked like that and pads will most likely fail later. The second thing is the rotors are not designed to be cooked either and you most likely have warped rotors now and take way too much to turn them true again. Other things impacted by the heat is the caliper pistons and the caliper seals. The pistons will cake up brake fluids as it heated and harden to the piston. The seals are only rubber and only can take so much heat. The brake fluid as well I would wonder what its condition is too.

Too high you need it to fall in the 7-12 PSI other than that the timing piston is forced too advanced and makes it impossible to start. Make sure your lift pump is controlled by your ECM and that the operating pressure is not too high. This is the reason I suggest 15 to 17 PSI operating pressure. This way cranking pressure is low enough to start easy.

Well, you better be careful the new bearing might be sitting on a store shelf too long. Bearing and the grease are not affected by storage. The grease lifespan is affected when excessive heat is applied like you hard braking down long grades. The bearing lifespan is affected by tire size and excessive wheel offset. The only thing that can be affected by weather and time is the seal that keeps water and dirt out of the bearing if the bearing seal fails then the grease will be contaminated with water, salt, MagChloride, etc and then the bearing life is shortened.

According to different weather site average yearly rainfall is 11.56 inches. I'm past that already at 16.53"...

For the amount of hammer time I've just spent on my truck, I'm rather tired of swinging a 6-pound hammer and heating everything up with MAP gas torch to get it apart. I just fought a unit bearing yesterday for 4-hours. Now gave up on wheel joint I couldn't move that also required 25 to 30 tons of pressure to just make the bearing caps move. Then now I've got to put it all back together again...

Best to have the truck sent to an alignment shop and have it set properly. This will make an impact in thrust angle and if its going to dog track or not.

Like here we got 0.27 inches of rain last night and for the year total 16.53 inches so far. Very dry here. Here is what I got minus the lightning detector. https://www.acurite.com/hd-display-with-5-in-1-weather-station-and-lightning-detector.html Very accurate weather tower. I like the idea of looking at the barometer and watching the pressure trends. I can then tell if the storm is small and move through quickly or large and hang around for the days. How strong the storm is etc. It also keeps track of a 1 year worth of weather data.

Just trying to pull my driver side unit bearing off yesterday resulted in about a 4-hour battle. The Air hammer tool did not work. I spent a majority of time smacking that bearing with a 6-pound hammer to get it to even move. Spray the gap down with PB Blaster and let it soak in smack it some more to even get it to move. I ran my compressor so long I was blowing the breaker trying to get it to move. Now the reason for this is the fact this is the bearing that failed last year I replaced at a friends shop in Marsing, ID. When I did I didn't have access to anti-seize and other materials. It was installed clean and dry. The salt and MagChloride have played their roll and made this unit bearing nearly a solid piece with the knuckle. Not to hijack @JAG1 thread... Now the reason for the unit bearing to be removed was to do the wheel joint on the driver side. It was a factory wheel joint. (356k miles and 16 years). I couldn't get the clips out let alone move the bearing caps. I finally gave up at 4pm and called a friend in New Meadows, ID that has access to a 100-ton press. Needless to say, using about 20 to 30 tons of pressure to get the bearing caps to violently jump to even move. I would of never got those bearing caps out with a 6-pound hammer... Moral to this post... Just because you can install or have parts that can last 300k plus miles. I highly suggest against doing it. It will require even more effort to removing a part that has been installed in the suspension or axles for over 16 year and 300k miles. Make sure to use lots and lots of anti-seize on all parts and bolts!

Wait to start lag is a bit off a problem pointing to ECM failure. As for lack of start is there lost of prime? Will the truck start if parked nose down? What is your cranking fuel pressure? (7-12 PSI).

On mine some time it tries once and quits trying to connect. Which this forces to shut down and restart the app. Sometimes it takes several tries to get it to connect.

Same here. Mine would the same as yours.

Yeah I would say send it back for warranty work

The speed data is digital. So both wires are required. Then if the CCD network is down to any device then the ECM or PCM would toss either P1694 or P1698 codes. So if there are neither codes then the network is functional. If the ECM has no CCD signal... If the PCM has no signal...

So far after playing with the Edge Juice and Smarty Touch. Both have TINY screens and very difficult to read when those screens are considerably smaller than my LG G5 cell phone. The other problem I don't like is being I travel to the city anything that is hung in the window becomes target especially if its a tuner. Thieves love to steal your vehicle if they know there are some goodies worth selling on the black market. Edge Juice and Smarty Touch you end up with a fixed monitor in the vehicle and now your truck is a target for being broke into or stolen. The other problem is suction cup mounts are illegal in many states. Like Smarty Touch is mounted with a suction cup. Edge Juice requires a special a-pillar. I'm using a suction cup mount on my Garmin 42LM and that damn thing falls off the glass quite often. I really hate the idea of suction cup mounts.

Mine is just a tapered point.

No. What I'm saying is to inspect your current wiring. The speed signal is already used by the ECM to cancel the grid heaters.

Ground. All it does is prevent certain error codes from occurring for PTO options.

I'll make a quick post on this. If you have truck that got the OEM rear sway bar end links still I highly suggest replacing them very soon. I'm learning just because something can last that long doesn't mean its a good idea to leave in that long. I ended up pulling the entire rear sway bar to just replace the end links. I had to stick each end in my table vise and heat them with MAP gas torch nice and hot and beat them out with a 6-pound hammer. You'll find Dodge really screwed up and has the bolt inserted from the wrong direction on the driver side. The fuel tank is in the way. So you end up pulling the mounting bracket which has 2 nuts. Mine was so bad the passenger side I pull the link right off the ball which was rusted and too small to hold in the cup any longer. The passenger side was in much better condition but sloppy. It was put together 16 years ago and now the rust and the parts are nearly welded together. Sorry, no pictures on this its a fairly straightforward task of replacement. I will say that it much easier to remove the entire rear sway bar and work with it in a table vise than laying on the floor attempting to beat the ball studs out.

Either modify the transmission to get lockup in 2nd and/or use an exhaust brake made for the 47RE. All current PacBrake's will give at least lock up in 3rd and 4th gear. @Dynamic has a way to get lockup in 2nd Gear.

Good reason for an exhaust brake.

Well DRBIII tool would be the best. OBDII might help out a bunch and see what the speed signal is reporting on the CCD network. Other than that I would say check the speed sensor circuit to the rear by disconnecting at the rear speed sensor and the ABS module. Using a paperclip make a jumper between contacts on the rear sensor plug. Now measure the ohms at the ABS plug and see what you get. This will verify the wiring for you. If you got time and can get the speed sensor out of the rear diff. Look and see if the tone ring is lined up to the hole. I've heard of one member that lost a carrier bearing the entire carrier shifted towards one side and the tone wheel was not visible in the speed sensor hole.

Suggestion to your interior mod. This is something I'm going to do very soon.

Little trick hang the carpet over a fence or a picnic table and use a power washer with wide angle tip. It will clean that carpet to look nearly new. I've done this to my 1996 Dodge turned out awesome. As for the plastic I know some don't like Armor-all but if applied right it will help plastics from getting brittle. HVAC I did awhile back fresh evaporator and heater core.

Quadzilla is of by about +50F EGT actually it starts refueling at 1250 or so and full cut by 1350F. If I set it at 1200F it defueling before it even gets close to a problem.

Not worried about it. Quadzilla on level 3 with my foot to the floor with the RV hitched up I can't reach 1,200*F. Floats right at about 1,100 to 1,150 EGT's.