Mopar1973Man

Prayer the rubber hose never kinks. Sure hate to to see what pressure build up will do most likely blow the front seal of the VP44.

Basically, the USB body is 1 1/8" (1.13"). So if your measuring 1 1/16" (1.0625") that is only another 1/16 of inch to go...

Fan belt Fan assembly from the block. Crank dampener Radiator (optional) I've done mine like I said pull the belt and the fan assembly and left the radiator in. Pull the crank dampener and you should be able to pull the gearcase cover. If you pull it make sure to have a fresh crank seal ready. Now install the crank seal into the cover. Another member had a killer write up showing that you can buy 4 or 5 long bolt cut the heads off and use it for alignment dowels to slide the cover back in place. With the alignment dowels, you can get the seal over the crank much easier. Sad part the pictures are all lost to the Photobucket issue.

Neither. I use a mayo jar and a piece of vinyl tubing for years. Cost nothing and works every time. It can be done solo even. Basically get an old glass mayo jar and a piece of vinyl tubing that fits over the bleeder nipple. Poke a hole in the jar lid and slip enough tubing into the jar so the tube can reach the bottom. Now add just enough brake fluid to bare cover the tubing end. Now open the bleeder screw, hook up the tubing. Jump in the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal. Since the tube end is submerged in fluid the brake system can't draw air in. Since its easier for the reservoir to supply the fluid than to draw it back from the jar it always flows in a normal fashion. When you empty your jar always leave a bit of old fluid in the bottom. Always remember to check your reservoir after about 5 to 6 pedal cycles you'll be able to move a large amount of fluid quickly. This method works from everything from ATVs to full-size pickups no problems. Now I've had a vacuum bleeder but hated that stupid thing. No matter what you set up for nipples or tubing the bleeder screw always leaked air in past the threads. The only way I was capable of making the vacuum bleeder work was using thick axle grease on the threads of the bleeder screws to seal the threads. This will work on any vehicle but the same issue happens the vacuum typically leaks past the bleeder screw threads. Pressure bleeders are nice but not for the price tag and the requirement of all the special caps you need for every single different reservoir cap design out there. Too much of a PITA and cost to have everything you need to use it. So you limited on the vehicle you can use it on if for example a friend wants you to work in his Ford and you've got a Dodge cap sorry it won't work. So you end up buy more and more adapters just to fit everything that might come your way.

Please? I'll FAX you a cold beer...

I would be looking at the measured amperage draw on that circuit more so than changing the fuse. Something is drawing more power through that circuit and had a weak spot and so it melted and burned up. Look at it this way you reduce the fuse size you most likely keep popping them. If you leave it stock sized it will possibly do the same damage again. You come back to fixing the circuit load and not the fuse.

Here we are with trucks from 98.5 to 2002 and we've got those clunky cigarette light power points. I know some of you have had to replace the cigarette lighter sockets and possibly the power point socket. I'm wondering what the hole in the dash measures out to I want to replace both the cigarette lighter and the power point with a pair of USB charger port. https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Charger-Socket-Power-Outlet/dp/B07FLTTXBD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539385959&sr=8-1&keywords=automotive%2Busb%2Bcharger%2B3%2BQC%2Bflush%2Bmount&th=1 If someone doesn't mind measuring out the hole for me. Now the reason why I'm heading this way is I want to ditch the bulky cigarette light cords. Like my Garmin 42LM is a cigarette cord which I could upgrade to a USB mini plug and buy a 6-foot cord and just plug in. I'm going to convert my Cobra Radar Detector from cigarette lighter plug to direct wire set up. Then my cell phone will have its own QC 3 port and never worry about it. Right now I've got a 3 port cigarette hub at the base of the cup holder. Rather a pain in rear end. If this works out I'll do the same thing to the 1996 Dodge Ram and convert it over to USB charger ports as well. Seems like more and more stuff is now charged on USB sockets and now here you are stuffing cigarette light charger in to convert 12V to 5V. It's time to upgrade.

By the time I do, I'll be too old and crippled. I live the memory...

Jacobs brake uses the feedback from the ECM. There is a pin in the ECM which is normally not used. This pin has delayed hit for the exhaust brake of about 2-3 seconds. Totally ECM controlled from the APPS sensor. Now other brands might not even use this method. No electronics or relays even used. The sad part is the Jacobs Brake is no longer produced the last that I know. Most people are going for PacBrake.

ISSPro has the full kit. Excluding the sensor... https://www.issprogauges.com/Exhaust-Back-Pressure-Kit-p/iss-r78855.htm

Dude... Where is the mountains? Man, that seriously FLAT LAND!

I would skip the DDRP because that will not deal with the plumbing issues. The pump tend to fail premature because of restriction stress placed on the pump being they are still sucking through the same 6mm ID lines and still mounted on the block then trying to pump through a 6mm ID line and banjo bolts. None of the DDRP pumps are quality units sorry to say. The only solutions I would suggest is Full AirDog, Full FASS or Fuel Boss mechanical pump. Any of these kits will replace all the plumbing and the pickup assembly. Basically, you need to ditch all the stock plumbing from the fuel tank to the VP44. Like myself, I've got an AirDog 150 that is heading for 13 years old and has over 250k of service. The pump head was replaced once. Maybe that's why my last VP44 lasted 243k miles. Then I kept my stock fuel filter so I'm double stacked filtering my fuel. Because even the stock 10um filter is catching fuel debris that the 3um Donaldson let pass through. I know the fuel heading to the VP44 is as clean as possible. Yes I cut my filters open and to see debris amount. Here is what it looks like at 15,000 mile filter changes. This is a Fleetgaurd filter after 15,000 miles which was a waste to change this early. I'm interval are up to 50k to 60k miles now.

Sound like a shade tree hack job.

Sure didn't do much for the efficiency of the engine. I've got a Mopar Performance PCM and did a little regearing for the truck and no set it up for 17 MPG truck.

it's not us... It the VP44. As long as the pressure is dropping below 14 PSI your just aiming for VP44 replacement. Another way to look at it. Minimum oil pressure spec for these engine is 10 PSI at idle and 30 PSI at 2,000 RPM. How long do you think the engine will last right at the minimum oil pressure limit? Most likely not very long. Same thing is true for the VP44 being the only lubricant is the fuel itself and the only means of cooling the pump internal parts is by keeping the overflow valve open with return flow to the fuel tank. If the pressure falls below 14 PSI you just cut your cooling for the VP44 and take a risk of burning up the PSG unit on the VP44. Another thing is the VP44 needs fuel pressure to move the timing so if the fuel pressure drops too low the cam ring can't be advanced properly hence the P0216 that comes with low pressure problems. Just food for thought. Ummm what the specs on this truck is this the diesel or a gasoline engine? 7 MPG is serious low for either version. My 1996 Dodge 1500 V8 5.9L gets 17 MPG and the 2002 Dodge Cummins gets 20 to 21 MPG.

Private property (forum member's in-law's place). I've got water and 30A power. Then RV dump is 2 miles away in Parma, ID. I pitch the landowner $100 bucks and I get my spot being I'm not there every day and only there for 4 hours and gone.

Umm... Block heater really? I still start without grid heaters let alone a block heater at +25*F... After about +20*F I watch for the Wait To Start light. I don't bother plugging in till below ZERO. Now it cold enough for a block heater. Even without a block heater at -20*F just cycle the grid heaters twice fire it up.

You need to shock the bolts. You can't get an impact gun in there. Just pulling with pure torque most likely with just turn the crank.

I've not gone deer hunting since 1992. This is just bringing home my second home from Parma, ID for the winter. This is my hideout for the summertime while MoparMom does here dialysis treatments. From here on out I get to hang out in parking lots and coffee shops for the rest of the winter time. My last trip down I took a ride on the ATV across the desert landscape. Now I need it at home so I can get up the mountain and shut down the irrigation water for the 3 homes here. Then use the ATV for the wood splitter and get the winter firewood split up. I've got to dump the RV tank, blow the water lines out and reload the propane tanks for the winter. My other home during the summer during MoparMom dialysis treatments.

Meaningless number then. It MUST be rolling down the highway. Neutral/Park and revving the RPM up it meaningless. There is no real fuel flow at that point. Let's say I've measure upwards of 20 GPH injected to the engine at highway speeds WOT. Revving the engine in neutral you might break over 0.5 GPH because there is no load on the engine. More than likely your fuel pump is junk if it can't even hold 14 to 20 PSI revving in neutral. Again... Idle is 17 PSI WOT at over 80 MPH is 15 PSI. That is stability only found with larger fuel pump like the AirDog 150 or FASS 150 pump with full 1/2" pumping. Won't find that with a AirTex using the stock 6mm ID (Which is smaller than 1/4 fuel hose!) plumbing and banjo bolts. Old video... Still the same today... still running the same AirDog 150...

Well, that is part of it that is just the clip.

Yes. That is normal. That means the power from the Transmission relay is reaching the solenoid and the orange black is open currently. Again the only thing the PCM does is control the time at which the orange/black will ground which will lock up the torque converter. Then if it opens that connection then unlock the torque converter. As you see the alternator field wire (blue) which is the key on sense for the transmission relay to send power to the transmission.

4 things that will kill a VP44... 1. Low fuel pressure below 14 PSI. 14 to 20 PSI is optimal! 2. Poor fuel filtration. Stock is 10um but 3 um is preferred and double stacking is better yet! 3. Excessive AC noise from the alternator. Max of 50 mV AC allowed! 4. Poor Lubricity of the fuel and excessive use of cetane booster and injector cleaners which make this worse!

Here in Idaho if a Dodge Cummins comes to wrecking yard its sold before it even hits the dirt. I don't have a salvage yard to even go play in. I check the network for local yards and the truck is sold before it hits the dirt. Sad but true!

Pull the fuel pump relay from the PDC and crank the engine over and get a measurement. No. worthless. You need a solid 5 to 15 seconds of cranking to see a good number and make sure you not measuring a air bubble or wild numbers. WOT at safe highway speed like passing another vehicle. Where you stomped to the fuel pouring everything you got under load. Engine is governor out to 3,200 RPM anyways.