Mopar1973Man

Ok a little education on CCD Network systems. First off remember that the PCM is the primary computer, not the ECM. So now the PCM wakes up and calls out to all the modules. This being ECM, ABS, cluster, stock stereo, etc. If there is any voltage issues on the bus it will fail to communicate. The bias voltage should be 2.49 and 2.51 volts when all modules stop talking. Now the bias voltage is created by the cluster. This means you need a minimum of the PCM, ECM, and cluster to operate the network. If there is any P1694 or P1698 codes then there are communication issues with either the PCM or ECM. Another thing is all modules are VIN locked. So making sure to have the ECM and PCM with matching VIN numbers helps a bunch and reduces the issues possibly. Make sure you have good solid +12V power to all modules, and no cracked fuses or corroded connections. Ground wise don't go running around grinding paint off the metal and redoing grounds. TRUTH! VP44, ECM, and PCM are grounded to the passenger side battery, there are no body grounds for any main modules! Don't waste your time doing all the body ground most of that is grounds for the lighting. Bad modules like a fried overhead console can and will make the CCD bus fail. The best thing to do is remove all the option modules like stereo, overhead console, etc. Again you need just the cluster, ECM and PCM and this should be all you need for fire up and no issues. If still having issues I would contact @Auto Computer Specialist and chat with them about this and possibly have the ECM and PCM looked at and tested.

Welcome to the family. We all can help in building up your truck just gotta start a new thread in the 24V forum. We can help you spend that money the right way.

Yup getting down to the bitter ends.

I would just go to a local part store and just pick up a radiator for your truck. I got one from NAPA for a fair price and works fine. I kept my OEM so I can get the tank seal replaced later on some day. 460k miles and still going today.

@IBMobile is a wizard with lock up switch set ups. I've seen his truck and it works awesome. He would be the best to chat with. Sadly I've never even played with a automatic and lock up switch.

If the fuse didn't blow out then the current is in check. But.... A weak connection will cause a connector to fail and melt the plug and burn the connector.

Driver side PTO plate I drilled and soldered a 1/8 inch bung into the PTO plate. Just below the PTO gear so the fluid is moving over the sensor.

I would suggest 315 bar for 7 x 0.009 injectors.

Just heads up most injector builders will set the pop pressure at 300 to 305 bar. The minimum is 293 bar (4250 psi). I've seen injectors drop 20 bar in less than 20k miles. Remember stock is 310 bar (4500 psi). 320 bar is 4641 psi. Even in cold weather starts easy.

Getting marginal. I'm in the realm now with my 7 x 0.010 with my injectors. Torque converter is too tight. When the ATF is cold the viscosity is higher of course. So when you start it up and drop into gear the torque grabs that cold fluid and stalls. I've seen this with several different members like @pepsi71ocean is the first off the top of my head that pops up that had similar issues with low stall converter install.

Ok, high idle after being fully warm is typically an issue with injectors popping too low. Do me a favor and check again. If idling and the idling is high like that watch the engine load if it at ZERO the injectors are done. What I mean is the pop pressure is so low the ECM is attempting to cut fuel to keep idle at 800 RPM but since the Engine load bottomed out it will idle high. SECRET: This is why when I had my 7 x 0.010 injectors built I opted for the pop pressure to be set at 320 bar it will extend the life span of the injector. As the pop pressure falls below the 293 bar which is minimum pop pressure as state by the Dodge FSM the Engine Load will continue to fall by the time its around 270-280 bar the engine load will bottom out. Coolant temps in the cold up here I will run down the pavement at 195°F but come to a stop and idle for 1 minute mine will drop in the 180 range quickly with the heater running. SECRET: If you unplugged the ECT sensor and had a proper range rheostat and increased the resistance so the temperature dropped back to near -40*F it will increase idle speed. Note this start down around below +60°F coolant temp if I remember correctly. Yup, I've played with the sensors and values quite a bit.

Give a few examples... Hauling my RV over to Pittsburg Landing road is speed limit to 15 MPH. Trans temp was reaching 240°F climbing and even continued to be hot going down the back side still at 15 MPH. Trip to Bridgeport CA I was bucking head winds at 60 MPH hauling the RV trans temp would climb to 200°F I would back down to 50 MPH and drop to 4th and it would cool right off. Summer time running empty at 80 MPH on I84 towards Boise ID and trans temps would rise heading towards 200°F but as soon as I hit 65 MPH speed zone it would start to drop back towards 150-160°F which it normal. Like now with winter time and cold temps it takes a long time to rise off 100°F mark and barely gets over 110°F on 70 mile round trip to McCall. As for the miles I've traveled with 50 SAE trans fluid no shift issues. Smooth easy shift typically shift with 2 fingers. Doesn't matter the temp outside. Doesn't impact shift performance at all. All the myths of syncro damage. Nope... Doesn't affect the syncros at all.

Lewiston is only 2.5 hour drive for me. Funny thing is I've never been to the race track.

Here is the key question do you have a transmission temperature gauge? You'll never know till you do. During the summer I can be near 200°F empty on the highway. Ignorance is bliss if you know what I mean. After the first failure I installed the gauge and found that thin fluids are not going to hold up. Faster you go the hotter it gets. The heavier your loaded the hotter it gets. Now consider loaded and traveling fast it is even hotter than the either. Till you have a gauge you'll never know.

NV4500 is 4 quarts of transmission fluid has to be at least GL-4 but not GL-5 also a synthetic.I suggest away from any thin fluids like the factory 75w-85, PennzOil Syncromesh, etc. It you work your truck and haul heavy loads I suggest you get something a bit thicker. For my truck I'm typically on dirt roads hauling firewood up and down steep grades ranging from 7% to at least 16% grades. Just to give you a sample just hauling over to Pittsburgh Landing on the Snake River with my RV the road speed limit is 15 MPH and there is little to no air flow under the truck, I've got a heat shield between the exhaust and gear box. Still push well past 220*F even running down hill. 75w-85 will turn to water and will not protect the gears faces. Hence why I broke input shaft gear, counter shaft gear, 5th gear (both). When things get hot you need thicker fluids to protect.

Westach looks like aircraft gauges...

Sorry @JAG1 your not getting it that easy... I will admit I would love to actually get a look at it in person and then a ride and feel that old school power. I had to go back and look at the starting date of this thread which was March of 2014. That is 9 years in building this custom truck. I'm sure @PilotHouse2500 is going to want to play for at least a few years after its done.

Same here... ISSPro EV2... Boost Pressure Fuel Pressure Pyrometer Trans Temp What I found on Quadzilla... Boost pressure is not true and varies the higher in pressure it goes past 30 PSI. By the time ISSPro shows 53 PSI the Quadzilla is showing 69 PSI. Tried two MAP sensors 2002 and 2001 sensor. Pyrometer is not exact but close its about +50*F for the most but can be off as high as 150*F at the high end. Even changed probes still has the offset. Boost on the Quadzilla is only good to verify the MAP sensor function. I would not trust it for racing purpose being above 30 PSI the accuracy is gone.

So is my Honda Rancher its fuel injected too. But I know my fuel pump and how the system works so it will run for quite a while with the fuel in the pump. Once the fuel system is dry then I'm good. I've had to pull apart the fuel pump to clean the filter strainer. It holds quite a bit of fuel but the filter is made from plastic.

Yup... It a front tilt hood. Opens like a semi-truck. Stellar...

Yup. Factory service manual covers the capacities of the truck entirely...

2006 I installed the AirDog 150. About 250k miles later the pump finally gave up and the pump seals failed and ate the bearing and failed. I was warrantied by AirDog and given a 3rd Gen pump head 150 GPH. It barely lasted few thousand miles and failed the same way the seals gave up diesel fuel washed out the bearings. Then I called again and AirDog upgraded me to the AirDog 165 GPH pump head. No issues since then. I kept my stock filter and install a 7um filter in the stock and 3um filter on the AirDog. Currently at 460k miles. Tidbit... 467k miles I'm made the trip to the moon and back. Then I'm going to load up and go again...

My last gasket I installed I just used the factory bolts over again. No issues.

I would use FelPro or Mahle gaskets over any Cummins gasket any day. Just a heads up Cummins does not produce gaskets like the head gasket is produced in China by BLK.