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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. Darker color dashes prevent windshield glare. In the same token, they also promote more dash cracking because of the dark color absorbing more heat and UV rays.
  2. Then I highly suggest you create your own business right here and now. No one said you "must" be employed by a company. Then you have better control of your life. That is one of the beauties of work for yourself. You have full control of what you'll work on, how long you'll work and what days you get off. I know JAG1 is another self-employed person, but he's kind at the extreme end of working too hard. I go through spells of working so darn much that I can't seem to get time to just slow down and smell the flower and other times I'm so slow that I wish I had something to do.
  3. The cost of living is pretty low over here if you can adapt to the slow lifestyle. Like I said over and over most everything is quite a distance away. Local products can be expensive. There are several folks here like my Fire Chief which he does insulation work for his own business. Like the folks that hired me to be their diesel mechanic is in the field of rubberized roof coatings has a fleet of trucks that need servicing. So you have to be creative on what you're going to do for income. You can't exactly say you're going to only do one thing for a living. Like myself, I'm all over the map from computers, server administration, diesel work, firewood, firefighter, search and rescue... If you're flexible then you might fit the mold for Idaho.
  4. I'm sure if you stop by here in the summer time MoparMom will hire you to paint two houses.
  5. Hmmm... That's a tough one for Idaho. Most of the smaller towns are doing poorly for an economy base. Like Riggins, ID most are bailing out because employers just can't pay enough to satisfy most folks living here. Like most of the central towns are nice small town most along a river with winters.
  6. Thankfully Idaho summers reach 100*F plus temps where I'm at but the humidity levels are way low like 8-20% humidity.
  7. Bosch VP44 injection pumps key part numbers key# Cummins# 026 - 3944021 027 - 3944022 028 - 3944023 029 - 3944024 030 - 3944025 031 - 3944026 032 - 3944027 033 - 3944028 034 - 3944029 035 - 3944030 036 - 3944031 037 - 3944032 038 - 3944033 039 - 3944034 040 - 3944035 041 - 3944036 042 - 3944037 043 - 3944038 044 - 3944039 045 - 3944040 046 - 3944041
  8. Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Overflow Valve Overflow Valve Description The overflow valve is located on the side of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. It is also used to connect the fuel return line (banjo fitting) to the Bosch VP44 injection pump for your Cummins powered Dodge truck. Overflow Valve Operation Fuel volume from the fuel transfer (lift) pump will always provide more fuel than the fuel injection pump requires. The overflow valve (a check valve) is used to route excess fuel through the fuel return line and back to the fuel tank. Approximately 70% of supplied fuel is returned to the fuel tank. The valve opens at approximately 97 kPa (14 psi). If the check valve within the assembly is sticking open, fuel drainage of the Bosch VP44 injection pump could cause hard starting. If a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been stored for “P0168 decreased engine performance due to high injection pump fuel temperature”, the overflow valve may be stuck in closed position. Overflow Valve Diagnosis And Testing A rubber tipped blow gun with regulated air line pressure is needed for this test. 1. Clean area around overflow valve and fuel return line at Bosch VP44 injection pump before removal. 2. Remove overflow valve from Bosch VP44 injection pump and banjo fitting. 3. Discard old sealing gaskets. 4. Set regulated air pressure to approximately 97kPa (14–16 psi). 5. Using blow gun, apply pressure to overflow valve inlet end ( the end that goes into Bosch VP44 injection pump). 6. The internal check valve should release, and air should pass through overflow valve at 97 kPa (14–16 psi). If not, replace overflow valve. 7. Reduce regulated air pressure to 10 psi and observe overflow valve. Overflow valve should stay shut. If not, replace overflow valve. 8. Install new sealing gaskets to overflow valve. 9. Install overflow valve through banjo fitting and into Bosch VP44 injection pump. 10. Tighten to 30 N·m (24 ft. lbs.) torque. Overflow Valve Removal The overflow valve (pressure relief valve) is located at the outside of fuel injection pump. It connects the fuel return line (banjo fitting) to the pump. The overflow valve has no internally serviceable parts and must be replaced as an assembly. Two sealing gaskets are used. One gasket is located between pump and banjo fitting. The other is located between the banjo fitting and end of the valve. 1. Clean area around overflow valve and fuel return line at injection pump before removal. 2. Remove valve from pump and banjo fitting. 3. Discard old sealing gaskets. Overflow Valve Installation The overflow valve (pressure relief valve) is located at the outside of fuel injection pump. It connects the fuel return line (banjo fitting) to the pump. The valve has no internally serviceable parts and must be replaced as an assembly. Two sealing gaskets are used. One gasket is located between pump and banjo fitting. The other is located between the banjo fitting and end of the valve. 1. Install new sealing gaskets to valve. 2. Install valve through banjo fitting and into the pump. 3. Tighten to 30 N·m (24 ft. lbs.) torque. Few notes... Here is a close up of the bleed hole in the overflow valve. This picture is magnified X10 so you can even see the tiny hole used to bleed air from the system. There is a lot of controversy about the operation of the overflow valve on a Bosch VP44 injection pump Cummins selected. From my personal opinion that the overflow valve is the last check valve to hold the pressure up to 14 PSI for the injection pump. As for the bleed hole in the side that hole is so small, it can't possibly create enough flow to aid in cooling the Bosch VP44 injection pump unless the overflow valve is opened which listed above requires 14 PSI to be open.
  9. Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Replacement Removal 1. Disconnect both negative battery cables at both batteries. Cover and isolate ends of cables. 2. Thoroughly clean fuel lines at cylinder head and injection pump ends. Thoroughly clean Bosch VP44 injection pump and supply/return lines at side of pump. 3. Disconnect 9–way electrical connector at Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) (Fig. 22). 4. Remove fuel return line at side of Bosch VP44 injection pump by removing overflow valve (Fig. 23). Place rag beneath overflow valve to catch excess fuel. 5. Remove fuel supply line at side of Bosch VP44 injection pump by removing banjo bolt (Fig. 23). Also remove same line at top of fuel filter housing (banjo bolt). 6. Remove all high-pressure fuel lines, intake air tube, accelerator pedal position sensor, air intake housing, engine oil dipstick tube, wiring clips, electrical cables at intake heaters and engine lifting bracket. a. Remove the APPS sensor. Just unbolt the APPS and unhook the wires and tuck it back towards the firewall with the throttle cable attached. b. Remove the intake elbow 4 bolts and remove the air pipe on the driver side. As for the dipstick tube it can be move out of the way by twisting it carefully. c. Remove grid heater leaving the wires attached to the grid heater and tuck back out of the way. Mopar's Notes: Now you only need to remove 1,2,4 high pressure injector lines. The other 3,5,6 can remain attached to the engine but need to be removed from the Bosch VP44 injection pump. 7. Remove hose clamp at crankcase vent hose (Fig. 24) and remove the hose from the canister. 8. Remove (unscrew - right-hand thread) canister (Fig. 24) from gear cover. 9. Remove nut and washer retaining injection pump gear to Bosch VP44 injection pump shaft (Fig. 25) 10. The engine can be rotated with a barring tool such as Snap-On No. SP371, MTE No. 3377371 (Cummins Tool Division, or an equivalent. The opening for barring tool is located in rear flange of the engine on exhaust manifold side (Fig. 26). Remove rubber access plug covering this opening. A 15/16" socket on the alternator can be used as a barring tool. 11. Insert barring tool into flywheel housing opening (Fig. 26). 12. Rotate engine until keyway is at 12 o’clock position (Fig. 27). 13. Use T-bar type puller (Fig. 28) to separate injection pump gear from Bosch VP44 injection pump shaft. Attach two M8 X 1.24 MM (metric) screws through puller and into two threaded holes supplied in pump gear. Pull injection pump gear forward until it loosens from injection pump shaft. Pull on gear only enough to loosen it from the injection pump shaft. Pulling gear too far may cause damage or breakage to gear cover. 14. Remove 2 rear/lower pump bracket bolts (Fig. 29). 15. Remove 4 Bosch VP44 injection pump-to-gear housing mounting nuts. 16. Remove Bosch VP44 injection pump from gear housing. Take care not to nick injection pump shaft on aluminum gear housing when removing the pump. Also, be very careful not to drop pump keyway into gear housing. WARNING: Whenever the Bosch VP44 fuel injection pump is removed from the engine, the pump drive gear is laying loose on the camshaft drive gear. Never attempt to crank or rotate the engine with the pump removed from the engine. Serious damage will occur. To prevent pump/gear keyway from falling into gear housing, the engine must be rotated until keyway is at 12 o’clock position (Fig. 27). If gear retainer nut, washer or key drops into gear housing, the cover may have to be removed to retrieve them before the engine is started. Installation 1. Inspect pump mounting surfaces at the pump and the mounting flange for nicks, cuts or damage. Inspect o-ring surfaces for nicks, cuts or damage. 2. Clean injection pump mounting flange (Fig. 31) at gear housing. Also the clean front of the injection pump. 3. Install new rubber o-ring (Fig. 33) at pump mounting area. 4. Apply clean engine oil to the injection pump o-ring only. The machined tapers on both injection pump shaft and injection pump gear (Fig. 34) must be absolutely dry, clean and free of any dirt or oil film. This will ensure proper gear-to-shaft tightening. 5. Clean pump gear and pump shaft at machined tapers (Fig. 34) with an evaporative type cleaner such as brake cleaner. Keyway Installation: 6. The pump/gear keyway has an arrow and a 3–digit number stamped at top edge (Fig. 33). Position keyway into pump shaft with the arrow pointed to the rear of the pump. Also be sure 3–digit number stamped to top of keyway is same as 3–digit number stamped to injection pump data plate (Fig. 35). If wrong keyway is installed, a diagnostic trouble code may be set. Mopar's Notes: A suggestion is once you ready to place the key in the shaft take a few drops of super glue and glue it in place. This will keep the key from falling out during installation of the pump. 7. Position Bosch VP44 injection pump assembly to mounting flange on gear cover while aligning Bosch VP44 injection pump shaft through back of injection pump gear. When installing pump, dowel (Fig. 34) on mounting flange must align to hole in front of pump. 8. After Bosch VP44 injection pump is positioned flat to mounting flange, install four pump mounting nuts and tighten finger tight only. Do not attempt a final tightening at this time. Do not attempt to tighten (pull) Bosch VP44 injection pump to gear cover using mounting nuts. Damage to pump or gear cover may occur. The pump must be positioned flat to its mounting flange before attempting to tighten mounting nuts. 9. To prevent damage or cracking of components, tighten nuts/bolts in the following sequence: a. Install Bosch VP44 injection pump shaft washer and nut to pump shaft. Tighten nut finger tight only. b. Install 2 rear/lower pump mounting bolts finger tight only. c. Do preliminary tightening of Bosch VP44 injection pump shaft nut to 30 N·m (15–22 ft. lbs.) torque. This is not the final torque. d. Tighten 4 Bosch VP44 injection pump mounting nuts to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs.) torque. e. Tighten 2 rear/lower Bosch VP44 injection pump bracket-to-pump bolts 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. f. Do final tightening of Bosch VP44 injection pump shaft nut to 170 N·m (125 ft. lbs.) torque. Use barring tool to prevent engine from rotating when tightening gear. 10. Install canister (Fig. 24) to gear cover. 11. Install crankcase vent hose (Fig. 24) to canister and install hose clamp. 12. Using new gaskets, install fuel return line and overflow valve to side of Bosch VP44 injection pump (Fig. 23). Tighten overflow valve to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. 13. Using new gaskets, install fuel supply line to side of Bosch VP44 injection pump and top of fuel filter housing (Fig. 23). Tighten banjo bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. 14. Install all high-pressure fuel lines, intake air tube, accelerator pedal position sensor, air intake housing, engine oil dipstick tube, wiring clips, electrical cables at intake heaters and engine lifting bracket. Tighten the fuel line(s) at the head to the injector connector(s) to 38 N·m (28 ft. lbs.) torque. 15. Connect 9–way electrical connector to Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) (Fig. 22). 16. Connect both negative battery cables to both batteries. 17. Bleed air from fuel system. 18. Check system for fuel or engine oil leaks.
  10. 36*F outside and snowing. Forecasted to drop down to +10*F tonight. Bad part is by tomorrow I got to find a way find a way to get the fire truck off the mountain at the Chief's house.
  11. Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Requirements I'm going to do a quick article on requirements for long life from a Bosch VP44 injection pump. Here is the list of thing that are required to keeping a Bosch VP44 injection pump happy in your Cummins powered Truck. Fuel Pressure Fuel Filtration Fuel Lubricity Clean DC Power Fuel Pressure I know there is a lot of controversy about fuel pressure but I'm going to be to the point I suggest 14-20 PSI for optimal return flow for proper cooling and lubrication of the VP44. Fuel Filtration With the all the different fuel pump and fuel systems out there. I've been quite pleased with my Airdog fuel system. I've got a pre-filter and water separator before the pump then the 3-micron filter after the Air Dog pump. Then I kept the stock filter as well and dropped a 10-micron Fleetguard filter in place. This has worked flawlessly on polishing fuel for the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump. Also being the AirDog flows a majority back to the fuel tank it tends to continually polish the fuel in the tank. I always will suggest in purchasing fuel from a high volume station like truck stops. Fuel Lubricity Bosch back in the day when designing the Bosch VP44 injection pump they based the design off of Europian fuel standards of 460 HFRR or less. Just about the time the Bosch VP44 was being introduced to the Cummins engine the US fuel was not adhering to any standards. So even before ULSD (ultra low sulfur diesel) came to be the US fuel had numbers as high as 500-600 HFRR. After a whole diesel industry getting damaged by the fuel the US standard was made at 520 HFRR. But that not going to meet the Bosch standards of <450 HFRR. So hence, the 2 cycle oil concept was born to band-aid this issue. Clean DC Power There have been so many years where people made claims of the electronics in the Bosch VP44 failed because of heat cycles. Well, that might have been true. Never the less there is another killer that I've uncovered is how clean is your power? Batteries are clean DC power just as they are but when you hook an alternator to the batteries there is always going to be some sort of ripple from AC waveform being converted to DC power. As alternators age the diodes start to fail and more and more AC power starts to leak out. I've set the limit at no higher than 0.1 AC volts measured at the batteries. The whole AC power problem could create these codes. P0215 P0251 P0252 P0253 P0254 P1688 P1689
  12. I'm waiting to see it start up with it fresh head and gasket...
  13. More than likely like Me78569 said it still the alternator it just the batteries are charged and the load is low so now the noise level is low. Why you don't see it now.
  14. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Fuel
    So now we get to install the Edge Comp module. Look back at the firewall where the main bulkhead goes throw. Cut a 3/4" slice in the rubber boot and slip the Edge Comp plug through the hole. Pull the harness through enough to get the RED wire inside. Route the red wire over to the fuse panel. Open up the fuse panel and pull fuse #17. Take the supplied fuse terminal and slip it over the leg of the fuse and reinstall the fuse. It will be difficult to install so use a blunt object to push it a little. Now route the MAP sensor plugs over towards the MAP sensor. And hook it up. Look down by the ECU and you find the CAN-BUS connector down there. Route its cable down there and hook it up. Now there is an another lead. It's got the grey wire (Pump lead) and the Black wire (Ground). Take the leads in one hand and using the other side the covering down away from the ends. This will give you extra wire to reach the battery for ground. Now you can hook up both black to ground on the engine and the grey wire to the red wire on the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Stealth Cover. Now route the main connector to the steering column or the knee bolster. Take a rag dampen with rubbing alcohol to clean the place your going to stick the velcro. Use the supplied velcro to attach the Edge Comp. Then place the Edge Comp to attach the second mating velcro. Now go out to the turbo and cut the band clamp off the wastegate hose on the turbo side. Now unscrew the elbow out of the turbo. Now install the supplied boost elbow which looks like the same thing but it got a small hole in it. Use the supplied hose clamp and reinstall the wastegate hose. At this point double check all your wiring and plumbing. If it's good to hook up your battery. Turn on the ignition key. At this point, you should see lights on the Edge Comp. Fire up the engine. You should be done. It took me a little over 1.5 hours to install.
  15. From looking at my old switch its on the IAT side of the plug. The 2 black wires come together to a bare copper wire this is the ground. Now it goes all the way forward to the switch where it ties to all the resistor before the switch.
  16. The Edge Comp is installed with a Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Stealth Cover. A lot of people are wondering how hard it is to install. I hate to say it, but it's extremely simple. I think the biggest thing is installing the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Stealth Cover. First off...Disconnect your batteries! - Negative cables. I got smart and started with the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Stealth Cover installation. Which is basically loosen the clamps (2 - 7/16" nuts) on the air tube on the drive side and move it aside. Remember to stick a rag in both holes. Then remove the APPS off the engine (3 - 13mm bolts). Now you got a good view of the top of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. So now you take the supplied tamper-proof Torx bit and a nut driver and remove all 5 bolts out of the Bosch VP44 injection pump cover plate. Save you old plate! DON'T THROW IT AWAY! Now you take you Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Stealth Cover and install it in place of the old cover plate. Once you got the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Stealth Cover mounted snug all the bolts gently. Now take the supplied Allen screw and thread it in the tapped hole with your fingers till it stops. Now get out a test light or a DVM. I used a DVM. Hook up the batteries and turn the ignition ON. Ground your test light or DVM lead and touch the Allen screw with the positive lead. Now tighten the Allen screw till you get 12V or a bright light. Then turn an extra 1/2 turn. Now disconnect your batteries again. Now strip the wire and crimp on the supplied ends (ring terminal and blade terminal). Put the ring terminal on the Allen screw and using the supplied nut tighten down the nut snug! No more than snug, though. Don't want to strip the threads in the plastic. Now assemble the APPS on the engine and the air tube. So when your done it should look like...
  17. Like myself in past vehicles, I've used a layer of felt automotive carpet padding to add in the sound deading. Basically, you're trying to reduce the ability of sound to vibration through the body metal to the cab.
  18. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Fuel
    Edge Comp Settings From what I understand when your setting you power levels you got the main number (1-5) and the sub level (1-5). To set the sub-level press the power switch and hold for a few seconds and release. The LED bars will be flashing rapidly. Now you can adjust the sub-level. The main number controls the maximum fuel rate and maximum timing advancement. This it the amount of total fuel at WOT that will be used. Higher the number the more fuel at WOT. Main Level Horse Power / Timing 1 40 2 60 3 80 4 100 5 120 The sub number is how quick it will get to maximum fuel rate and maximum timing advancement by boost pressure. Higher the number the less boost required to get to full fuel rate and timing advancement. This also might create black smoke during acceleration. Sub Level Fuel Rate / Timing 1 33% of Fuel is supplied until 20 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 2 50% of Fuel is supplied until 15 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 3 67% of Fuel is supplied until 10 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 4 adds less fuel than Sub-level 5 5 adds the most fuel at low boost Recommended setting is 4x4 or 5x5. Reason being is that most of you every day driving on city streets and highways you will never be able to keep the boost above 10 PSI. That means once the Edge falls in de-fuel mode you've lost you time advancement and any kind of fuel enhancement. The de-fuel mode is a de-fuel stock mode which you want to avoid. De-fuel mode was designed for people that have a large turbo and/or large injectors and it gives them a way to control smoke till the turbo spools up.
  19. Started snowing here rather good this morning. Everything being recovered in white snow again. Still less than 1-2" inches of snow in my yard. I lost faith in snow coming that I removed the blade from the ATV and the blade is stored under the deck on the other side of the house now. Not even worth shoveling the deck off which typically is a morning and evening routine.
  20. High Pressure Injection Lines Removal This short article is how to remove the injection lines from your Dodge Cummins 24 valve engine. Most all fuel system work requires removal of the high-pressure injection lines from the Bosch VP44 injection pump to the head. I'm going to show you how easy it really is to remove the high-pressure injection lines from the Cummins 24v engine. The first parts you need to remove a few things from the area to make room. APPS Sensor Intake Tube Grid Heaters It doesn't require complete removal of these parts, but it does require them to be moved. So like the 4 bolts on the intake and 1 clamp and then lay the tube and heater over by the PDC box. Same goes for the APPS sensor 3 bolts and disconnect the sensor plug and lay over with the Intake tube. WARNING! Make sure to pack the manifold and intercooler tube with rags to prevent parts or debris falling into the tube or engine! Now look at the top of the intake manifold you'll see the high-pressure injection lines holders are bolted down to the intake manifold cover. There 5 bolts (10mm) you got to remove. This will release the high-pressure injection lines from the intake manifold. Now look back of the intake manifold there is an engine hoist ring take the 2 bolts (15mm) out of that and remove it. The will allow access to cylinder number 6. Now everything should be loose and ready to removed. The first batch of high-pressure injection lines with being the front set which will be 1,2,4. When you look at the Bosch VP44 injection pump it will be these. The picture below is showing just the front set of high-pressure injection lines and the position on the Bosch VP44 injection pump. Now the rear set of high-pressure injection lines come off. Cylinders 3,5,6
  21. How To Install an AirDog 150 Fuel System The AirDog 150 fuel pump is a good design kit. It comes complete with all hardware, mountings, fitting, hoses etc. to hook up to your Dodge Cummins Truck. It was rather easy to install on my truck since I already had a Vulcan Big line Kit and Carter campaign lift pump. Mounting suggestion (for 4WD trucks) is that you push the pump forward towards the transfer case so the skid plate can protect the pump and filters from road debris. But make sure you leave enough room to access the transfer case for fluid checks and drain and fill service. As for doing plumbing it rather straight forward. Route the hose and cut to size. But I'll make another suggestion. Look your routing over very carefully for a place to protect the fuel line from damages (sharp body edges, tight spots that could pinch, or get snagged by road debris, etc) Also remember to include enough room for your connectors. Below is the return fuel setup. As for doing the electrical is also very straight forward too. It was designed rather good too. Looks just like stock wire harness. Suggestion for routing of wiring. The pump power leg should be routed with the taillight harness on the truck then you can zip-tie to the existing wiring and it look rather factory looking. The relay and fuse can be mounted on the firewall by the ABS controller. There is an existing ground wire in this location and I utilized the screw to mount both the fuse and relay on this ground screw. Draw straws Install (Old School) Now for the draw straw kit took some time and consideration. You got to ways of installing the draw straw by pulling the bed of the frame or to drop the tank. Since I've got a topper on my bed and lots of stuff in the bed of my truck it would be best to drop the tank. Here is a picture of the tank removed and I did prop it up on wood so the bottom of the tank didn't get flattened. Now you got to drill your hole for the draw straw. I use a 1¼" I drilled it on a high spot of the tank towards the front. After a period of time has passed now I found out that the hole should be smaller like 1 1/8" hole. Basically, now all you got to do is assemble the draw straw part and install it into the tank. But you'll find out that the straw is a bit too long and needs to be trimmed. I pushed the straw into place and measured the amount that it was sticking out of the grommet then trimmed it off. I did add some grooves to the bottom of the straw to keep it from sucking flat to the bottom. Now I get asked a lot about how much gap to the bottom of the tank you need for the draw straw. This is an easy answer you want to place a quarter (coin) on the bottom of the tank and the tip of the draw straw should just touch that. Seem tight, right? Well think about the weight of diesel at roughly 6.6 pounds per gallon there will be 60 pounds of diesel pressing down on the tank bottom at a quarter tank so this measurement will widen with more fuel and less as the tank empties. I lightly notched the tip of the draw straw to keep if from ever sucking flat to the bottom. As for performance I've managed to run down below 1/8 tank warning light several different times now with no problems. So now you should be complete. The Draw Straw should be all assembled and installed in the tank. So now re-install the fuel tank and hook up fuel line going to the AirDog 150. All you need to do now is re-prime your fuel system. My results were great. I've got awesome fuel pressure now.
  22. Now is the time to build your tune for MPG tune and traction control too.
  23. How about the transmission mount? That's the one I'm thinking of.
  24. Or the torque is just over whelming the stock mount. I tend to agree it does look like a bad mount though.

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