ram350002

I wasn't looking for assistance, advice or opinions on how to bleed the fuel system on my truck. I asked if anyone knows of a company that still sells a tapped fuel filter cap for 2000-2002 trucks. Thx to assistance of one of the forum members I was able to find a used one. Still haven't heard of a company that currently sells them.

Thx Ryan, I'll call him in the morning.

The stock cap is cheap, brittle plastic that would most likely crack. Plus the hex in the center that is used to remove it is hollowed out to reduce material. The resulting "hole" is approximately 1/2" to 5/8" so the resulting drill and tap size would be large as well. If I pick up a used one I might try it but I don't have much faith in it holding up well.

The plastic retainers (can't remember the correct name) are barbed and press into the hole but won't pull back out easily. It is important to drill the correct size hole and not let the bit wallow out the plastic. It turns out alright but not "prefect" by any means. I was disappointed that the pod mount didn't replace the existing steering column top cover, but rather just sat on top of it. Cheapo--- Hope this helps

Does anyone still make a tapped fuel filter cap for the 2000 - 2002 style fuel filter assemblies. I checked GENO's and he doesn't carry them any more apparently, and a Google search didn't turn up anything. Just looking for an easy way to bleed air out of the system after filter changes since this is the highest point in the system. Thx

Certainly getting your miles out of them. Just shows what can be done if you're willing to work on things rather then just replacing parts like most. We had a clean room and use to rebuilt nozzles/injectors by the dozens for larger engines, now everything is sent out because no one has the training/experience. Your current situation has helped me decide to just keep my stock injectors when the time comes to upgrade, that way I also have a standby set.

That's a very good idea. I never considered throwing the Carter in the truck as an emergency spare. Should of had a V8

Also have him check for any grooving in the yoke from the seal. It doesn't take much before no new seal will fix the problem. Had this problem on my Tx Case output shaft yoke.

You can get better rated filter cartridges for the stock housing, down to 3-5 micron. I have a filter/pump unit with a 30 micron feeding into the stock housing running a 3 micron. My feeling was if it isn't broken, but if yours is leaking and can't be fixed then it sounds like it's time to get a spin on kit.

I may be temping fate but I have never ran the minimum 5 psi recommended by firestone since I installed the bags 10 years ago and they still hold 90 psi under 1 1/2 - 2 cords of wet firewood. I found that the ride was better empty with no air then with and just left it that way and took my chances.

I've been there, done that. Everything previously mentioned and the SINGLE biggest improvement or bang for the buck was a Borgeson Quick Ratio Steering Box. Take this for what its worth and hopefully it will save you some cash. One thing you do need to do it make sure everything else is in good working order.

I've always been cautioned NOT to jack at the differential or to put all the front end weight on any single portion of the axle tube/assembly and I would follow this advice with these trucks given the front end weight. The cautionary note was to prevent bending/breaking the axle assembly. I have two - 3 1/2 ton floor jacks and use one under each end or the axle with a chunk of 2x4 between the jacks/axle. Then I place jack stands under the axle as a precaution against a jack failure. If you look in the owners manual it will diagram proper jacking methods for these trucks and you won't find ANY that show a single bottle jack for the entire front end. Hope this helps

Probably a situation where some brands the pins are included and some aren't. I haven't done a set of drums that ever required the pins to be replaced but I haven't lived anywhere that salts the roads thank god. No better way to ruin a perfectly good vehicle. I don't plan on ever buying another truck and I'm only 51, but I don't have to worry about it rotten out from under me.

Most helpful and will save me busting the tabs off trying to figure out how to get it apart.

Sounds good, just have to get off my butt and do it.

Bet they are a lot cheaper then buying through Airdog.

Those are identical temp/pressure readings I get, and have gotten since I bought my truck in 2002. Don't be alarmed they are all normal for this application.

Thx for the photo, those are pretty crispy contacts.

Since a lot of sediment flows through the drain, I would first flush/clean it thoroughly and see if that fixes it. Many times it's just some crap stick in the valve seat. Hope this helps.

You first step should be to visit the Airdog web site and look for the tech/support section and review/download/read the install and operating instructions for that model pump. I don't think your friend would appreciate you wasting his pump (assuming it was good). Once you understand how it's suppose to be wired up, then you can do the "bucket of diesel fuel" test. The web has a wealth of information at our finger tips. Hope this helps.

Have you noticed any improvement in performance, i.e. slightly smoother idle, quieter engine, quicker response/torque or is the only noticeable improvement on the heater output and maybe a touch better mpg? Thx

Best bet would be to cut a chunk out of a junk yard wrecked bed so you could easily match the contours of the existing bed then attached it with either netserts or aluminum rivets that are easy to drill out. A little rtv and some duplicolor factory match paint and it would be hard to even notice.

The difference is minuet when it comes to the aerodynamics of a refrigerator.

Dodge should allow for access from the start, cars are made that way! A panel in the bed sounds like a good idea to me.

I don't know that I would run a manual trans at 250 degrees unless I was running synthetic oil in and even then I be looking for a way to cool it down. I have a switchable temp guage on my trans/rear axle and hauling my 10.5' camper and 19' cuddy cabin IO Boat I only see temps of 190-195 at 60-65mph during the summer. I also have trans coolers and 3 extra quarts of Amsoil synthetic trans lube. 250 degrees is out side the normal operating range of most gear lubes and I would think you would start seeing serious thermal breakdown over about 220.