Dieselfuture

Motor honey , no just kidding don't ever use that crap. Someone I know put it in his 350 chevy and ended up throwing a rod through the block. By the time we pulled over there were few holes in oil pan and we could see a fire inside but he didn't have any gauges hooked up so... who knows if he even had oil pressure, but it was kinda cool to hear a rod break going down a hwy at 70 mph and we lost a little power so he flored it and few more rides broke then it was game over.

I'm starting to think there were different size crank shafts too, as I did a front seal on a 97 I had and bought the seal from cummins by engine number and it was too tight. And @Cronus577 got a rear seal for his truck and it was too loose. What are the odds.

@Cronus577 that's just crazy, maybe some cummins stuff went to China too, who knows.

I don't like that picture at all. Where they cut the line and zip tide it to the side, that's not a good way of returning fuel from lift pump, first of very little will make it to basket and second it will make it foam. If returned to basket it needs to be as low as possible to bottom of it. And also if you don't do a full 1/2" in and out to all final destinations, you will have greater psi swing. Like @notlimah mentioned the only line on basket that should be reused is the smallest one used for vp and head return. In my case when I did my conversion draw straw 5 only came with one bung to go through top of basket so I had to make my own for return from lift pump, and I drilled out the bigger fitting that's used for factory outlet and used it for return, I did try using it as is at first and had issues. Later I complaind to Vulcan about it and sounds like he listened and now has 2 fittings to go through basket, now that's customer service.

removing waight, congrats on brakes but yeah. .... are they broke inside or threads may damaged, don't think they fell out from vibration but these trucks do rattle

Every time someone fixes bunch of stuff right before they sell it and some things don't add up, usually turns out to be a headache, worth a look but I suppose it may be more dependable without vp and some electronics but will be lacking some power maybe, but that can be addressed.

Filling out signature and posting few pictures does eliminate a lot of questions. But on the other note like I said if you already have a t style I would not recommend going backwards. Do you have 17" for rims, does y bar you got from friend look smaller in diameter then what's on the truck. I didn't know about HD option to have that done from factory on 2nd gens, but I find out every day that I know very little.

someone already upgraded your steering then, and I would not put y style back on, leave what you have on there alone, unless it's loose then replace it with what you already have t style

Do you know if these are same filters fass uses

Isn't there an anti stall feature someplace in PCM or ecm, something @Me78569 just worked on for v2

I was just kidding but at the same time was trying to say if a guy could find a high mileage truck like Mike's for 7500 I would most definitely buy it, all depends on who took care of it. But we all know 7500 for something like @Mopar1973Man has is low balling by a long shot. Start looking around and don't jump on first thing you come across, unless it's obvious it's the one. Just so you can drop a cummins in it right

@Mopar1973Man how could you, and not let us know, and why so cheap ...

IYou should be fine with a single wheel truck especially if you're not going to tow every day for a living. And will be way better to get around when not towing. I've towed close to 14k trailer and excavator with a single wheel. Not something I want to do every day but around where I live there is a lot of farms and kids with these 2nd gens trying to push them to the their limits. So it can be done but you may have to look in to air bags and maybe better shocks. I think at this point you probably already know that fuel system has to be upgraded and wouldn't hurt to put at least rv275 and a tuner (quad with v2 tuning in my preference ) I also have an exhaust brake that helps a lot when towing it's bolted to the turbo and also wanted higher flowing turbo but like you said limited choices so I ended up having one built by North American Turbo and pretty happy so far, I even kept my old one as a core for a $100 extra. It's now a 62/67/12. And I'm able to use my EB. And for service breaks you can always upgrade to 3rd Gen

Then it's back to good ol rtv

I think 90ft/lb is what factory bolts are

@CUMMINSDIESELPWR would it be easier to take that back plate off or about the same with patience

Looks fancy, hope it works well.

Should be fine but if you need something to do or have extra cash change them out. Keep old ones just in case, new crap doesn't seem to last as long.

Off subject, bit I learned my lesson the hard way too, I now take batteries out of anything I don't use daily.

Steering box

@01cummins4ever I think all track bars should be adjustable, when I got my truck the track bar was shot, I put a new one one just to find out I had to jack the frame up to put it in and that's how they go bad so quickly. Front springs get tired over time and track bar needs to be shorter or it constantly getting pushed towards passenger side and frame and axle are not straight. I did had to adjust track bar to be shorter when first started to mess with it. I must of had tired front springs, so frame is closer to axle but track bar is still same length and axle gets shoved to passengers side with constant pressure on ball joint of track bar. When I built my front bumper out of 1/4" steel I had to make track bar even shorter, that's when I debated spacers or springs, ended up buying factory plow package springs because spacers would mess things up in steering geometry and will not support extra waight since they're tired already. I was going to build my own 1.5 inch spacers at first just so I could be around factory hight but found a set of new springs for under $200 i believe. So after I put new springs I had to make track bar longer and after few months it settled down some so I made it shorter, about half year later it settled and that was last time I made adjustment, it may be time now to check. It is still 3/4 of an inch taller than it was before I added front bumper. So basically by not making track bar shorter you're using it as a lift kit, it will actually lift front of the truck up slightly depending on how tired your suspension is. So no wonder they only last 20-30k or so. When that ball joint wears steering becomes very sloppy because you're adding extra travel side to side and gear box gets more abuse too, having to pull your axle over and lift your tuck before it even moves tires. That's why I also have a brace for gear box. There is a lot of little things that get messed up on a bad track bar. Hope I made some since At least that's what I've experienced with my truck.

I'm patiently waiting on my y steering to wear out so i can get the T style in Yeah the list never ends....

Not sure how well you can see it but basically it's a stock bar that I cut ball joint off and welded a pice of round stock same I'd as bushing side of track bar, went to parts store picked up poly bushing $15 then went to steel place got stock $5 then fasten all got a big fine thread bolt with 3 nuts $30 then chopped a 3 inch section of bar out and welded bolt on one side and nuts on the other, it might of been 4 inches can't remember now, but had to be shorter then stock by half inch so I could have the bar shortet. Everything is gusseted even bolt and nuts with round piece of pipe I had laying around that is just beraly fits over od of bar. When I was welding nuts together I grinded a v in them so I could fill it with welding wire, basically I over killed everything knowing it's an important part of handling. Been 4 or so years now no problems. I had a lot more time back then and that's why I dI'd it, now I'd probably just buy a kit. Difference is on the y when you go over bumps body moves away from frame and it pulls on the y and changes your toe in and out especially on a worn track bar, on t tow doesn't change unless you change it, going up and down over bumps may be noticeable in steering wheel moving left and right a bit.

I think all track bars should be adjustable, when I got my truck the track bar was shot, I put a new one one just to find out I had to jack the frame up to put it in and that's how they go bad so quickly. Front springs get tired over time and track bar needs to be shorter or it constantly getting pushed towards passenger side and frame and axle are not straight.

Hopefully that's all it was, having electrical gremlins is no fun