Dieselfuture

Would it only affect IAT or the whole ECM? With the mistake I made, as of now without starting I can toggle between IAT and resistor and it's working, just curios if other thing could get messed up. And would it really matter which way you make relay work normally closed or open? Though about buying yours and Mikes high idle/mpg/3cyl but no need for 3cyl and have high idle with my qwad so just wanting IAT fool. Thanks.

Just a quick question I hope. I was wiring up a 5 pin relay to have on toggle switch from IAT sensor to 2.2ohm resistor. On accident I touched 12v positive from battery to IAT wire, so basically I sent 12 v to ECM from one of sensor wires. ( i cut blue one in half and piggybacked to black) I haven't started truck yet and it's getting really cold out too I might wait till end of week to start. But with key on and switch off I get 143f on IAT gauge and if I flip switch on I get ambient temp of intake. I figured ill wire it up this way so the relay is not energized when I'm fooling IAT, most of time it will be fooled anyway so I'll use relay to switch to IAT only for warm up and then shut off switch and be on resistor with relay dead. I guess I have 2 questions could I fry ECM by sending juice back to it through IAT wire and any side effects with the way I wired up relay. Thank you all for your help.

Can a guy put a spring on pedal and attach up top somewhere, doesn't have to be a lot of tension just enough to pull up pedal. It maight be a bandaid on bluet hole but if everything is ok might work. Most of brake switches have an adjustment om them too.

I got 285/70/17 on and I think they are perfect for what I do. No lift no rubing rides great. I also done a lot of off road in different rigs and know for a fact it's all how you set it up. Seen big trucks with huge tires get submerged and a little toyota would drive right through. Ofcose if it's deep water taller trucks have advantage but for trail riding not so much. Clearance on pumpkins is always good but at what price and for what reason. And with 31 to 35 you're splitting hair, if you gor 4.10 then 35 would be ok but with 3.55 I would stay away from 35 especially if you tow. Plus you pay so much more for 35 and what if a rock you went over was 2 inches taller then with 35 you'll still hit something. Unless you put 54s then there is some forgiveness. But by that time you'll be running Rockwells and 4link, and it never stops. Just thinking out loud, but I wouldn't go though all that just to be able clear 2 more inches.

Is there a way to crank engine over without starting, if so maybe try cranking it over and listen for any odd miss. From what I heard all cylinders should sound same and if there is an odd one then you know it might be something internal.

No problem just thinking out loud, sometimes we overlook the simplest things.

Could it be bad fuel

Does your v/ac rise at all from .02 when you rev it up? After I rebuilt my alternator truck seems to run more crisp and haven't surged yet. I went back to local guy and he hooked his devise up to test diodes and it was mostly on good but not at 100% he said it was way acceptable, and other things could affect it. And with my fluke I get .03 at idle and .06 at 2500rpm. Just curios if you tried revving motor up to see any change.

Take the alternator out will make it a lot easier, and make sure you do change both diodes and brushes as old wore out brushes can make some ac noise, make sure you don't cut stator wires but rather old diode ones and then pry them apart, otherwise won't be long enough to crimp and solder new racktifire on.

To me it doesn't sound like vacuum, I had something similar happen few years back, and like you said fuel pump doesn't prime after you get done cranking, I jumped my relay plug for fuel pump and then pump stays on all the time and truck fired right up. But I don't think I ever found out what was wrong with mine, later in day pulled jumper out plugged it back to relay and never happened again. Maybe ECM maybe fuel pump maybe even vacuum, let us know what worked.

My alternator was charging fine, until I had a shop that cold test it for diodes specific and failed on that test, also when you check ac volts on back stud of alternator make sure you rev truck up slowly and use a good meter and not a $5 one. Cheap one will not work. From what I understand normal is .02-.05 ac/v and .1 ac/v max. My alternator was at .6 when revved up to 2500 rpm and .02 at idle, it make since why my problem was noticeable at hwy speeds and up hills. I hope my surge is gone for good and wish you luck with yours, I know how frustrating it is. And yes apps do go bad but I ended up changing mine thinking it was the problem and it didn't help. Rule out alternator for sure before you change somthing else, parts stores will not help you with their testers, find a place that does it for a living or get a meter like Fluke.

It could suck air anywhere before pump that would be suction side and will create vacuum. And most times wont leak unless hole is big enough. I replaced all blue lines with real diesel lines on my truck.

Good idea, I'll have to find battery and give it a try. Thanks for a simple solution that is easily overlooked when I think too hard.

I had my 12 valve for a month and miss it a lot

I've had my truck for 4 years now and my waste gate been stuck shut forever, I drive by my boost gauge.

I believe I got draw straw 5 the one that replaces in tank fuel pump, works great. The only thing I did different is ran a 1/2 line back to module with some jic fittings and didn't use clip on 3/8 return. That way return is not restricted and won't affect fuel pump pressure. I had to drill out 3/8 fitting from module and that's where I put my 1/2 " return. To bottom of fuel basket. I also threw away screen at bottom of module but kept red rubber valve in place, if I could find that little red valve I would add 2 more on bottom and not drill any holes on sides of module like they want you to.

I believe so, I drove it to work again today and as soon as I got to work checked ac volts before I shut it off and was at .03 idle and .06 revved up. Then I took it for a quick spin and got on it a few times and sure enough air dog was acting up in pressure spikes of 3 psi. Put meter on alternator and had a steady reading of .125 for about 30 sec and who knows how long it's been at that as I had to hook up meter maybe few minutes, then I revved it up a few times and it seemed to drop a little. But to come back to .03 I had to shut the truck off and start it again and ofcose greeds were sycling and ac was affected a little, but then I drove it again at steady speed and air dog steadied out and ac came back to normal. I know this is not easy to explain but guy I work with really knows electronics and he also thought that somehow fuel pump was affecting ac noise. But he didn't have much time to piss with it. So I guess if brushes are old in air dog can that cause ac noise to back feed to alternator? One electrician told me about my alternator diodes were probably good and ac noise was caused by worn out brushes, because he checked my old diodes and didn't see anything wrong with them, but also said that that's half the test as they need to be under load to check for sure. Seems like I keep fixing things half asss, even though I'm trying to do it right the first time. But in the end by rebuilding my alternator so far I had no surging at all even on higher levels of qwadzilla, where before I didn't even use it for power as it would make surge more pronounse.

I'm only seeing over .1 when air dog starts to act up. If pressure stays same then I don't see any ac over .06

Maybe blown fuse, or batteries are to dead to start, if you jumped it wrong way chances are blown racktifire. Really need gauges to see what's going on. It's 02 do a key trick for reading codes.

Ok I just found something else, sometimes my air dog starts to pulsate from normal 19 psi to 22 or so and makes noise like sucking air, and when that happens if I check for ac current I get spikes to about .5 and when there is no spiking my ac is around .02-.03 and if revved up it's at .06 max, but with air dog it spikes above limit for ac/v also might be greeds that cycle about same time and causing air dog to spike. Can air dog make ac noise? I'm guessing it can since it's electric motor. Any ideas. I don't want to fry another diode pack.

Might be vp issue

Maybe peanut from packaging got inside of pump, I would take it apart and check, unless it requires special tools and gaskets, also maybe put some 5-30 engine oil in pump and assemble the rest excepted to vp, then see if it primes. If it does run it to flush engine oil out and you're done. Every oil pump I put in for gas engines I take apart, clean and fill with straight 50 weight to help prime. Few times I found small metal shavings in new oil pump. Sounds like its cavitating.

Did you follow instructions and got it set at certain voltage and then had your batteries disconnected for at least half hour and then with key on slowly press acc pedal and depress slow shut key off and do that two more times and then start? Do a proper adjustment of new sensor and reset and see if it helps, if not maybe other issue, crank or cam sensor etc.

It may have overflow valve, than it could have a weak spring, just thinking out loud. Or over pressure valve.

Everyone's question is what gauges do you have if any and what do they show, did you reset new apps sensor and where did you get it. Etc need more info before help.