Dieselfuture

Try colloidal silver through a nebulizer, don't over do it, see if any improvement happens. Or even put it in a pot and put it on the stove, then depending on how strong the silver content is, maybe delute it with water, then breave in steam, just carful so you dont get burnt. Lots of ifs and buts about it just like anything else that's not mainstream, but hey if it helps then you'll know. Maybe a little earth grass can help too.

Not always but if you're going to use it be very careful so non can make it to vp or injectors. You can get something in paste from Hardware store that has ptfe in it, should be good for gas/oil sealing. Usually says right on the bottle what it's good for.

ModuleMaster told me that they found its a 50/50 chance that dodge will work with aftermarket wheelhubs/sensors, they recommend only getting factory parts for this matter. Something to do with all these frequencies that don't match exactly for what dodge wants to see. My brand new timken hubs are showing random signal loss, I thought that was my problem until I saw a code for rear sensor, weird thing about the rear sensor snap on said it was bad but it was reading better then the front and not dropping signal. You can ohm your wires from module all the way to sensors. Unplug sensor and module sides, put paper clip in sensor side and use ohm meter on module plug and see if you get 0.00 or as close as possible to that. More resistance = loss of continuity in wiring.

Jag1 brings up a good point. If you didn't have a problem before, your intake pump if you had one used to push fuel so line was under pressure, now you're sucking it from front so the entire line is under vacuum. Can easily have a leak someplace in tank fittings, ether way if you redo the basket it will be for the better. Or you can do a regular draw straw as long as it's done the right way you should be fine. Also try with a full tank of fuel, see if you still have same issues.

That's how we pressure test pipes too

I feel that to make it right, the entire fuel system needs to be done over, at this time it seems you did everything but the pick up from tank itself, maybe where your problem is, but then again if you didn't have this problem before then it may not be in tank pick up. I'd go over everything you did to make sure no leaks. Suction is where you can have a leak and not see it as its vacuum there and not pressure.

Did you have problems before mechanical pump install

that would be for return fuel if I'm thinking correctly

My basket I modified with draw straw 5

How did you hook up to tank, factory quick connect or did you pull module out and modified it in any way

I find that we all assume alot and a lot of times people that may be just getting on board with this have no idea what's what, until we know facts it's all assumptions. This goes for anything in life, we all like to assume but usually we're off and sometimes hurt fillings without meaning it. Happens quite a bit at work too, someone assumes something and makes a decision then it's not easy to admit. I learned to listen over the years. Or at least I try to.

Luckily I know nothing about automatic transmission bit what you're doing.... may be on to something

How's mechanical plumbed in, straight to tank, filters, etc, draw straw, or trying to suck fuel through electric pump in tank or anywhere else

Not at all, only when I had it scanned with snap on it showed a code for rear sensor, so I changed it and no more abs/brake light on. My pump never buzzed for no reason as my module was never bad. If yours is buzing I'd say send it to ModuleMaster

There is a relay that can stick on that makes the pump run all the time, and module masters change the relay and few other wearable parts inside. I opened mine up thinking I was going to fix it, what a pita just to open it, $130 is well worth just that. Got it opened and tested the relay it was good wasn't sure what else I could do so I send it to them. As usual with my luck there was nothing wrong with it but they changed all the wearable parts anyway. My problem ended up being a rear end sensor that I changed before and it didn't help that's why for so long I was chasing my problem in other places such as front well sensors then front hubs with sensors, then finally the module, all to come back on a new sensor in rear end. So my original rear sensor went bad, got a new one from car qwest like 5 years back it didn't fix the issue, been chasing it since then just to finally change the rear sensor again from rockauto just because I ran out of options and what do you know, it's fixed now after all unnecessary parts I changed.

My screen is holding up so far keeping bigger chunks out of the box.

Yeap ^^^

I changed mine just because, I was chasing other issues and just did it, I kept the original one it's still good, now I have 2 for the rest of time.

I changed mine with no issues, was always wondering why people say you need to remove the vp, I think it took me like 15 minutes total. All about practice working on other vehicles all this time among other things. I can see it being a challenge for someone that is just now figuring out what tools are.

Does pressure go up to 20 in one second or ? If you disconnect your fuel pumps, not sure if fuel can be pulled through a positive displacement pump (mechanical) Vp will start and idle without auxiliary pump if fuel is not restricted.

Lots of people with mechanical pumps and they don't have a hard start problem because of high pressure. I can see if it takes longer to start how mechanical pump will increase pressure which does not help the situation. If electrical pump was wired to a battery and had constant pressure on start up I'd say it may be the problem. But if everything is working as it should and truck fires up half the crank, then pressure won't be at 20 yet. My opinion is if you didn't have this problem before you changed vp then it's more likely what it is.

Yhea I have 2 probes before and after, don't really need the after one but I had it so I used it. Usually 100-200 degree different, after is cooler. I thought about putting a plug back in BD instead of probe and save the probe for later but then it's like nah I have it might as well use it.

This is BD Two different flanges

I had this before I put a BD cover on and I had the void sticker, which I guess could of stayed on from last time po changed the pump.

If I was looking at complete fuel system now I'd go with a mechanical pump.